Are you looking for the simple tool with two screws... one the punches the rivets out and on to set the new rivets, or a lever-operated "sickle servicer"?

The simple ones can be had at many farm stores, and all over the 'net, starting at about $45.00.
 
There is also a concave punch that goes in an air chisel to set the rivets. Used to build truck cabs this way. Air chisel on one side and someone else on the other side holding a bucking plate. Very noisy LOL
 
Unless there is some burning reason you just have to have rivets, I'd suggest going with the bolt and nut they make for that application. 100x easier, faster and less headaches.
 
Back when riveted sickle sections were all there was, we changed thousands of them with no special rivet tool. Three common tools- ballpeen hammer, drift punch, and anvil. Just as fast, probably much faster, than using a special rivet tool.

To remove old sections, set the edge of the sickle bar on something solid(we used an anvil) so that the sections are vertical with the pointed end down. Smack the back edge of the section with a hammer, and it will shear the rivets.

Then just use a drift punch to pop the remaining pieces of rivet out of the bar, usually through the holes in the anvil to keep from deforming the bar.

To install new sections, put the rivets through the bar, set the bar with the bottoms of the rivets on the anvil, put the section over the rivets, and hammer the rivets down to the point where the section is tight. Dont need to smash them completely flat, just low enough that the section is tight and they wont hit anything on the cutterbar like guards or fingers.
 
Bret can you simply replace the rivets with the correct screws and nuts or is there more to it? My FIL has a ford sickle bar I am not sure of the model# I believe it is 6 ft. he is unable to work on it (age 88 YRS) so I am doing it I need to replace most of the segments I can remove them and re-rivet but screws and nuts sound easier II saw adds for kits to do that. My concern would be clearance around the Rock Guards.
 
Are you replacing all of them? If so research price of complete new bar with sections bolted on it. Best prices at farm store vs tractor dealership.
 
You need to have "high arch" hold-down clips to clear the nuts on the bolts.

If the clips you have will clear you are good to go to change to bolts.
 
Spent most of my younger life cutting hay in the rocky hills of Mo., and have changed lots of sections (knives) with only a hammer. Never knew those fancy tools existed until a few years ago. It takes a little practice, but if you have a heavy vice or something heavy and solid with a sharp edge you can use a large hammer to shear the rivets off. Set the sickle in the vice with the knives pointing down, but leave the vice a little loose. With a little practice you can hit the top of the knife and shear the rivets with one blow right over each one. Drive the rivet head out with a punch, then with something solid for an anvil, use the same big hammer to swell the new rivet. Do NOT just tap the rivet to head it, but hit is hard so it swells in the hole.
 
We used to change them in the field with just a hammer and punch (and a couple wrenches to remove the sickle from the machine). It's been a while but there was an exposed edge on the frame that we used to set the sickle on to knock the old section off then hold it against the side of the frame to rivit the new one on. Not as handy as an anvil but way quicker than driving back to the shed.
 
Sometimes you need the high arch hold downs, but not always. No one seems to realize on a lot of machines you can put the screw in from the top and the nut on the bottom. It's that simple. If you have a machine with the real low, old style hold downs you might need to do that. But none of my equipment from the 50's forward (JD, IHC, NH) required replacing any of the hold downs other than the one right near the knife head that always needed a higher hold down because of the pitman drive laminations. In the nut if going to be too high you can put it on the bottom on most everything I've tried it on. In fact when I did my sickle for my 472 this spring I did all the screws that way and had no issues related to it. So yes, it's that simple in most cases.
 

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