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How to fix this botched stud removal

L

ldj

Well-known Member
This is a ez-go 3pg golf cart engine. I just got this cart with the exhaust stud broke off. They tried to drill it out and messed it up probably because they couldn't get to it good with the engine in cart. I will have engine out. Now how do I fix it? It is so far off center and close to edge I don't know if a hilicoil will work after I get the rest of the stud out. What about brazing it up and re-drill. What ever I do should I remove the cylinder. See photo and give ideas will be appreciated.
S1055891.JPG
 
Yep, that is a mess! Only way I see to fix that is
braze it up and re drill and tap, and I wouldn't
want to put that kind of heat on it with it
assembled. Even that will be iffy and expensive.

Any chance of finding a used cylinder?
 
I would fabricate a drill guide with the right drill hole and center it over that stud and bolt it down using the other stud or whatever bolt is handy.
Then drill the stud out with a milling bit and re-tap to the next size up in metric or standard.(forget the helicoil).

O second thought, if the whole cart looks like as in the pic i would prob scrap the thing .lol
 
Fixed quite a few like that over the years, drill it out to the
appropriate pipe plug size, tap it, install pipe plug, grind flush.
Install bolt in other side use a transfer punch to center punch,
drill and tap.
 
The cart is really pretty good and the engine has compression above minimum. It fired right up and runs.
Now that idea with the pipe plug sounds like a what I'll do if no one comes up with a better idea
 
I have drilled out studs like that before. You need to take a die grinder with a carbide burr in it. Grind the part of the bolt out that was missed by the other fellow. Then carefully drill through the remaining part of the bolt.

To help you get it drilled centered make your self a guide to help hold your drill. I often take a piece of flat iron and drill a guide hole through it. I then line it up where I want it. I then use one of the other head bolt holes to clamp the flat iron tight. On the end I am clamping I drill an over size hole and then use a washer under the clamp bolt. This gives you some adjustment to line your guide hole up straight.
 
It looks like part of the stud is still in the hole from say 6:30 on around to about 12. That being the case you've still got thread in that portion of the hole. What I would do is to use a carbide burr to remove the rest of the stud that remains. From there, if the block is cast iron you may be able to clean the hole out good and braze the whole mess up and start over. If it's aluminum, they do make epoxies that will handle the heat that can be used to fill in the hole just like the brazing would. In either case you can often use a combination of the old hole and threads, along with the piece bolted to it to get the correct pattern. Given the application, if you can pick up the remainder of the old threads, and supplement them with fresh threads in whatever material, then you should be good to go. Good luck.
 
I"ll second the pipe plug idea. I fixed a big
block mopar exhaust stud that was worse off than
that by using three 1/8" pipe plugs, I put them in
one at a time and slightly overlapped them. After
grinding them flush I used the exhaust manifold as
a drill guide. I managed to save a very expensive
head. HTH Jf
 
If the mating part would allow you to move the hole to a nearby
location without drilling too deep and breaking through into the
port, it would be a quick fix.
 
I've Heil coiled holes almost as bad. It's worth a shot just wallow out the hole on the manifold to match the new placement of the hole. My experience was on 07 international semi's with Cummins isx. They broke the bolts all the time would only fix them when they started to leak or the turbo was off for something else
 
I drilled and tapped for pipe plug to fill that awful hole, than drilled and taped for 5/16 stud

THANKS FOR IDEA

2008-01-02%2000.21.04.jpg

2008-01-02%2003.19.24.jpg

2008-01-02%2004.14.45.jpg
 
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