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Ford F150 pickup brake problem

L

Larry B. 1486

Member
I don't know if this is the right forum to be on for this question but here it is. Have a 2000 Ford F150 4WD with disc breaks on the rear. I need to get the rotor off. Have the caliper off. Question is don't these rotors just slip on over the studs? I have tried to gently beat on the back of it but will not move. Is there a trick or something else I have to take loose to get them off?
 
They are supposed to. Check for a retaining clip on the studs. If the rotor won't move it is probably rusted on. If you are not going to use the rotor again beat on both sides of it till it breaks the rust. Might have to use some penetrating oil on it.
 
Do you by chance have the park brake on? They use brake shoes inside the rotor for the park brake. Otherwise they are probably rusted on.
 
This is a good time to mix up a batch of acetone and transmission fluid. Spray around the hub hole and the studs, and let soak for a while.
 
It has a combination drum (emergency) and disc (regular brake). It is hanging up on the ridge inside the emergency brake drum lip caused by corrosion. I have found he easiest way is to take your biggest C-Clamp and clamp it to the rotor near the outer diameter so that the clamp handle sticks straight out from the side of the vehicle. Grab the C-Clamp by the threaded handle and shake and push and pull all at the same time. The effect of all the shaking and pushing and pulling will loosen it so it can be worked off the brake shoes holding the inside of the drum. Just trying to force it off will not work. The rotor drum assembly has to be rattled, rocked, and rolled while you are pushing and pulling to get it free. The first one I did by trying to just force it in one direction and not rattling it around took a few hours. Once I found that all the rocking and rattling worked it only took me a few minutes to do the second one.
 
If the rotor is not loose from the axle flange then what I have done is to put a puller on the rotor and push against the axle center hub. Once you have the puller loaded take a torch and heat the rotor hub where it meets the axle flange. If you don't have an acetylene torch use two or three propane torches simultaneously. May require you to have a friend help. You are trying to use thermal expansion to bust the corrosion loose between the rotor and axle flange. It has to be heated quickly to work so the rotor expansion rate exceeds the axle expansion rate.
 
Just remember, there is a set of small shoes under that rotor/drum. Any penetrating oil, acetone-ATF, etc. will likely mess them up and they will need to be replaced also. Can you say $$$$?
 
You need to adjust the parking brake shoes in just like on older drum brakes when you remove them. It's the same design just look for the rubber gromet on the backing plate and you'll find a toothed adjusting wheel inside. You need to look at those shoes while your in there and replace if needed. The book says you must pull the axle to replace them, but if your a fairly good wrench turned it takes some time but I replace them without removing the axle. Hope this helps.
 
Here you go, this method is great. Might need to fine tune for your application but should work,great for you. Also make sure the emergency brake is,off like,others have said.
Untitled URL Link
 
Back in the day when I worked in a Large independent garage, we would always loosen the lug nuts on the rear, put into gear, and apply the brakes. We would have the engine at a high idle and just shift from drive to reverse rapidly or just have wheels turning slow and jam the brake pedal.
Of course some problems prevent this procedure but it always worked for us.
Just have to use common sense during this procedure and don't get carried away and damage the studs or wheel!
 
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