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Fencing Question

M

MFan

Member
I"ve got a cement yard by a barn that I"d like to split down the center and divide into two pens. What"s the best way to anchor treated posts, either square or round, to the existing old cement yard? Breaking up the yard and repouring with posts set is not an option.
 
Only reasonable way I can think of is steel floor flange. Don't know about square but round is available in two,two and half and 3 inch dia.
 
I have rented a core drill before.
Use about a 4" core and you could make clean holes.
Run a hose out there and use plenty of water.
They cut pretty fast.
Then drive metal fence posts through the holes.
You could also rent a Bosch electric jackhammer and punch the holes through the concrete too.
That would probably be cheaper.
Sacrifice a bit and weld a pipe on it to drive the metal posts in with the jackhammer after you punched the holes through.
 
Here"s an option I"ve used....those 2x2x4 foot landscape blocks you see at nurseries, etc? They are made of excess concrete at redi-mix plants. I had them make some with two 3 inch PVC pipes running through them (2 foot dimension). Blocks weigh about 2800 lbs. I set them on end, set steel gates along side, and run chains through the PVC to hold the gates. Instant feedlot fence that animals will not push over. Each block cost me $25.
 
They also make good anchors for long grain augers in high winds. I shove a pipe through the PVC and they are just above the auger axles.
 
Do a real careful layout for your post location, mark them well, and pop it with a 6 or 8 pound sledgehammer. Hit it right in the center of the proposed post location - it will pop a cone shaped piece out downward, then clean up the edges to the diameter that you need. It goes pretty fast. Won't work if there's a footing or toewall where the post goes, and wire mesh will slow you down if the floor has it. I wouldn't try it if the floor has rebar reinforcement. My floor had mesh in it, but like most floor pours, it was near or on the bottom of the slab. You're gonna pour concrete around the new posts, so the hole edges don't have to be pristine. I divided a 40 foot square concrete pen into four 10 X 40 pens. My slab averaged about 5 inches thick.
 

I will just throw this out as a idea for your consideration:

Would metal gates set at a angle work for you? For example; Two 10 foot gates offset 2 feet (in a vee pattern) would span a distance of 19.6 feet. Four 10 foot gates offset (in a zig zag pattern) would span a distance of 39.2 feet.

The gates would need to be anchored to posts at each end and anchored at the floor where the gates meet. Since the gates are triangulated they are self supporting across the span.
 
Steel floor flanges like da.bees recommended would be the easiest way to set treated posts. If I were doing it, I'd make my own flanges out of heavy walled 4" square tubing and plate, but that's because I have all the materials on hand, and I like to over-build things to my own satisfaction. The materials might be more expensive than the cost of factory built flanges if you don't have those things lying around the property. If you don't weld, of course, then it's a moot point.

Stan
 
I"ve done a lot of that. I use 4x6 treated posts or sometimes I'll nail two 2x6's together to effectively give me a 3x5.5 inch post. I anchor angle iron to the concrete and the post gets anchored to the angle iron. Someimes when there is no way to "hold" the top of the post, I'll weld a longer piece of flat metal to the angle iron. This piece of metal runs up along the post 2 maybe 3 ft and acts as a "leg" for the post. It makes it very strong and livestock won't push it over. Now skidsteers on the other hand will do a number on them. I know.
 
A couple of questions on your angle iron anchors. Do you use a piece of angle iron for each side of the post?

How does the angle iron hold up as far as rust? Just use something thick that"ll last a while?
 
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