rattle can paint

I've fought with rattle can spray paint for years... Krylon, Rustoleum, store brand, whatever... always had problems with nozzles stopping up... splatter... and paint dribbling out. I've tried shaking, inverting to clear the nozzles ... I even bought an attachment for a sawzall that shakes the paint for you... most tiems I get the same results... stopped up can.. I've even had them do that on first use...

I give up ! what is the secret ?? anybody conquered this problem ???

thanks
John
 
Always turn the can upside down and blow out the cap with propelant. Keep all the old caps . When they do clog soak in lacquer thinner. The can says not to do it ,but clear with a pin or sewing needle.
 
I've tried all those suggestions DR. And still have the problems... I thought it might be not shaking enough to get the paint mixed... but with the sawzall shaker I can shake it continuously for 15 minutes and still have stop-ups... very frustrating... and I've got a handfull of clean tips... the problem seems to be in the can... maybe in the 'up tube' that the tip attaches too...
 
(quoted from post at 13:38:08 08/14/14) I've fought with rattle can spray paint for years... Krylon, Rustoleum, store brand, whatever... always had problems with nozzles stopping up... splatter... and paint dribbling out. I've tried shaking, inverting to clear the nozzles ... I even bought an attachment for a sawzall that shakes the paint for you... most tiems I get the same results... stopped up can.. I've even had them do that on first use...

I give up ! what is the secret ?? anybody conquered this problem ???

thanks
John
I have used hundreds of rattle cans. Through years of experience, I NEVER BUY KRYLON!
This company needs to spend their advertising money on the product.
I will only use rattle cans for very small touchup jobs where less then one can is needed. For bigger jobs I use HVLP spray gun. More trouble but far cheaper and much better job.
Rattle can spray paint is the most expensive form of painting.
 
Hey John.

I second what the Doc says about keeping the nozzles in thinner.

If I get one that won't spray you can clear them by using a blower tip with the rubber end. Hit it forwards and backwards and usually they will clear up.

Brad
 
Some of the rust-oleum cans that does not work with. I have used over 200 of the cans this year.
 
I've had pretty good luck using a wrong nozzle with extra large hole to clear out lumps. Also some nozzles have a removable spray tip. If you can first try to get paint flowing out of can then get a SPRAY nozzle that works. Even that is not 100% fix some just will not work the way they should.
 
I've had good success with the Rustoleum 2X Ultra Cover. Apparently the nozzle is bigger, comes out faster, and seldom clogs. This must be a Home Depot exclusive product, haven't seen it elsewhere.

When I do get a clog, spray carb cleaner works well, either put the paint nozzle on the cleaner and spray it through, or use the tube to back flush it. And spray some down in the hole in the can, blow it out with air.

Spray cans have a limited shelf life. They don't like temp extremes. I try to buy from a high turn over store with inside storage.
 
I have had some strange things happen with old lacquer spray cans . Every time you made a pass you had to take off the cap and place it back on to get it to respray.If I used over 200 spray cans a year I think I would buy a spray gun.
 
I think I learned on here that it's better to store them laying down, that way they mix better when you shake them. I also sit them in a bucket of warm water (<110F) before using.
 
Once stumbled upon a website that sold spray paint nozzles to "graffiti artists" (Vandals)... Had dozens of styles/shapes/ spray patterns. I have wondered if it might be worth buying an assortment of those nozzles to try. They have to be better than the ones that come on the can.

I once worked for the company that makes most of the spray nozzles... Worst place I ever worked.
 
The only time I have trouble is if the paint is old. Sometimes it works, and sometime I just toss it. Always shake well and make sure it is warm. Turn can upside down and spray to clear nozzle after each use, even if it will only be 15 minutes till next use. Works for me.
 
Sometimes running out of propellant gas will cause small annoying blockages , especially in half used cans . I stripped the core from a tubeless tyre valve and use that as an adapter to refill cans with air . As long as you don't go over 40 odd psi it's fairly safe . Take off the spray nozzle , put the rubber end of the valve over the top of the can , fill from your compressor . Make sure it really is out of gas and not just blocked or you might over pressurise the tin .
[b:4c933e4d76]You have to use your own discretion and judgement on this one to be safe[/b:4c933e4d76] .
I find it works really well with WD40 and other products as well . The air can ruin paint over time so I only ever use it with used tins that will be finished on the job at hand .
 
My problem with rattle cans used to be finger fatigue after a few minutes, and also if I wasn't carefull the tip of my finger would hang over the end and interfere with the spray causing gobs or drops in the paint.Now I use the plastic handles that attach to the top of the can and it works more like a regular paint sprayer. Much better results.
I bought mine from McMaster Carr, probably cheaper elswhere.
 

went to the source.... Rustoleum replied (with
very little to add to you guys expertise)


Thank you for contacting Rust-Oleum Product
Support.


We are sorry to hear of the problems that you are
having with our aerosol cans.



Occasionally, pieces of pigment can settle down at
the bottom of the spray can. Inside the can is a
dip tube that pulls the paint from the bottom of
the can to the tip. If the pigment in the paint
is too big or if there’s not enough pressure
behind it, it can get stuck in the tube or tip and
the paint wont spray. If the clog is in the tip,
soaking it in mineral spirits should clear it out;
if the clog is the tube, there is unfortunately no
way to clear it. Keeping the nozzle clean, either
by wiping off with a rag after each use or by
soaking the nozzle in mineral spirits should help
keep it from clogging with dried paint.



Sincerely,

Corinna M.
 
Every question brings a myriad of different answers. I will just say that I never invert the can to clear nozzle. That uses up a lot of propellent and you end up with a bunch of paint left in can and no pressure . I merely wipe it off and next time I use it I may have to take nozzle off and clean it but normally I do not.
 
Most folks don't shake the can enough and ends up with clumps of paint in the nozzle. When one stops up you can remove the nozzle from the can and soak it in lacquer thinner and blow it out with compressed air. It's easier though to save the nozzles of the cans you empty and just put a new one on.
 

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