Slide hammer- axle bearing/seal job

Billy NY

Well-known Member
2004 ranger, friend needs to do the axle bearings, just wondering, anyone have a Napa, Autozone or common auto parts service tool recommendation for a slide hammer, and or tool to seat the oil seal ?

I know you can get creative and use other things, open for suggestions but I'd like to get the tools if possible, don't have time to waste etc., and know I do not have these tools in my box, or anything I can think of that will work.

Saw one in Autozone's web page and several on Napa's web site, just wondering what would be appropriate for this work., review on Autozone said it worked well on a ranger axle actually.
 
I do have a set for seals, but often use a socket with a short extension stuck in it. Size the socket according to the seal, and using an extension, it"s easier to keep a hammer centered on the small end, rather than the socket.
 
Seen this on TV this past weekend, I've never done it. Hooked a heavy (logging) chain to the axle. Leave some slack in chain, then flop it up & down. The guy (tattoos and all)broke loose rear axle from vehicle.

I know it may or may not work????
 
I believe those are c-clip retained axles. I normally tap them in and tap them around in a circle until they are flush with the axle tube. I don't put them in quite so deep if there is a wear groove in the axle. You will need an axle bearing puller to remove the bearings. Make sure outer race on the bearings is a press fit in the differential and look for pitting on the axle.
 
Ok, that would work, I'll have to size up a large socket, not sure I have one large enough, but easy enough to source, I'm sure the folks at Napa, can help with the slide hammer, just having a tool that fits is what I am after, I'd be rummaging around, this and that and just wasting time, good idea, thanks for that !

I recall using steel pipe of the right size for press in parts, but always prefer the right tools or a good substitute, if I can think of one or someone else has a suggestion, just like yours !
 
Yes, c-clip retainer. Apparently you remove the 8MM retainer bolt that holds the pin, remove the pin, not sure how the clips work, but at some point, (wheel is off) you can pull the axle shaft out. Once done, use the puller you mention, I see H-F, Autozone and similar will have that. Then check all surfaces as you say, burrs, pitting and all the rest, know that part well from similar assemblies, groove on axle, offset the wiper so it seals against unworn, true diameter/dimension, so it does not leak. Press in bearing with slide hammer I assume, saw it done on a you tub video, it has an end meant for that purpose, then obviously and carefully install the seal.

One person mentioned they had to do something with the spider gear, not sure what that was about, not really familiar with differential assemblies, but other than the above, removing the cover, draining and replacing the oil, sounds like a relatively easy job.
 
Auto Zone and I'm sure others do also, loan tools. Basically, what you do is buy the tool with the understanding they take it back for a refund when you're done.
 
To get the axles out, you pull the pin that holds the spider gears in the carrier housing. Then push the axle in, remove the C clip, pull the axle out.

You don't want to turn the axle while the pin is out! The spider gears and thrust washers will fall out. No big deal, just another step to put them back in.
 
Once you remove the pin DO NOT spin the axle with one removed or you will learn how to reinstall spider gears. Push in on the axle with the pin out and remove the c clip, then pull out the axle. AGAIN don't rotate the axle with one removed. The puller does install the bearing it removes it. Installation is done with the tool to install outer wheel bearing races in hubs or a similar tool. Don't hammer on the bearings, only the outer race.
 
why does he need bearings? i do this for a living and if there is nothing wrong with the axle bearings I dont replace them and only install new seals, and by the way if the bearings are bad you will most likely need new axles as well
 

You may have to start the seal with a hammer then use a bearing race installer to tap it home straight... Race installers come in a assortment and cheap enuff now days everyone can own a set..

My hot tip is to pack the back side of the seal with wheel bearing grease to keep the guarder spring intact while installing it... Don't go for the kill with one more big hit once you seat the seal home are you may pop the guarder spring out....

If its a track-loc it needs a additive for the clutches... If not How the hell does he drive it the rear is so light it will get stuck a spin on anything...
 
Billy a cheap 3/4 socket set is a good seal/bearing driver. I have a set that is all I use it for. I cut the female end off the long extension so I can hit it better to drive in seals and bearings.

The other guys have covered all you need to know on the actual bearing/seal removal and install.
 
I think when he went in for tires, either he or the person there noticed some play, he may have noticed something while driving. Good point, I assume you could find issues with the shaft, wear beyond tolerance, groove at seal wiper etc. I'm inclined to believe what you say, would think seals are more of a common repair, but if the bearings are on the way out, what would you typically notice ?

I'm sure he's never changed or likely checked the differential oil, and if the bearings are lubed by same, which should be, its possible.
 
That is definitely an easy substitute, I've got a 3/4" craftsman ratchet anyway, I could get a HF set or similar for the purpose like you say, the need does arise. I just did seals on my troy bilt tiller, easy enough to use the wheel to seat it LOL! the darned book even mentioned it. I remember 2 years ago, doing the pto bearing, seals and keeper on my 850 ford fussing around to find something to drive one of the parts onto the finally found a piece of steel pipe just the right size, hate having to do that when you know there is a tool or something, always eats up the clock LOL !
 
they would be noisy pretty much the only symptom, when you take the axle out look them over and the surface they ride on and if they arent pitted up leave them be
 

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