Gear/Pulley Pullers - NEED ADVICE ON A GOOD ONE

RTR

Well-known Member
Just broke the newly purchased Harbor Freight 2-jaw puller trying to remove the crank pulley on a Super A engine. The peice of China junk flew apart into a million pieces. I know it is our fault for even buying it, but they had the bearing separator and all of the different styles of pullers and the place is local and it is so easy to go in there and pick out what you need and get it that day. We know it is junk because we have stripped the threads on another puller we bought a few years back. It"s just hard not to try it when the price is affordable, it"s convenient, and there simply isn"t another "store" that sells specialty tools like that.

We want to buy a GOOD, quality USA made jaw puller (or puller set) that will hold up and last. At this point not worried about the price ......or at least until I start pricing them. Do any of you have any good recommendations?? This puller will be used on steering wheels, engine components, etc. (all on Farmall tractors and Cub Cadets mostly).
 
Just about all of my pullers are OTC brand. I"m sure there are others, but the OTC stuff has been around for years, and are good tools.
 
(quoted from post at 03:06:38 07/30/14) Proto is available at Graingers , It's a top brand too.

We have had some Proto tools. I am ordering online at this point to get the best deal plus it is easier to see what is out there instead of driving 30-40 miles to Grainger.

Never heard of the OTC tools, but they are pretty cheap compared to other brands I've looked at like Snapon, Proto, and Mac Tools. Are you guys sure the OTC would be a good set that would hold up?? I'm looking at the OTC 4579 set specifically.
 
Not for this job , but google Posi Lock pullers , they are a real tough brand that solves several problems. They have a cage that holds the puller arms in place. I've used them for years ....
 

There is also a OTC 1184 which is a Cone type puller. Not sure if that is what I need but it looks like a nice one.
 

Found another.....OTC 1181.

Prices for each of these are on eBay. What all do you guys think would be best to have?
 
I think any 2 jaw puller would be a load to pull the pulley off. I"ve used the HF bearing pullers on farmall crank pulleys many times with no problem.
 
As stated below, I would never think of using a two jaw puller on a crankshaft pulley. Almost impossible to know if you are getting an even pull without cocking which would lock the pulley fast. When I get a tuff pulley to break loose I get it good and tight and hit the hub with heat smack the end of the screw with a hammer. Never takes much heat. Just enough to expand the hub without getting to the shaft.
 
Just for your info OTC makes a lot of the pullers for everyone else. I know for a fact, that they make a lot of the special JD tools for the dealerships.
 
Any brand name... NO Harbor Freight isn't a brand name... OTC , Proto , Snap-On , Mac Tool , Buy a combination puller that you can use several jaws on it in 2 or 3 jaw configuration.. From working on heavy equipment for the last 37 years, I'm puller poor...
 
OTC is the Owatonna Tool Company, originally started in Owatonna, Minnesota. They've been around a long time--their usual stomping ground is specialty tools for the heavy diesel market, meant to be used all-day-every-day by professional mechanics so it's usually pretty good stuff.
 
Not to be a smart a$$, but if you had posted this ahead of time at the most LOGICAL place, the IH Tractors Board, you (and all those Strap-On fans who replied) would have known just how TOUGH it can be to remove those pulleys.

Asking there, (or an archive search will show you how the PROS do it).


(NOT for the faint of heart, as it involves a shop-made puller and a hydraulic jack.)
ONE way to git er done
 
Bummer!

I have some HF tools but there are certain things that just have to be top quality and pullers and bearing separators are on the list. Especially bearing separators!

OTC has been around and made tons of specialty tools for OEM and that sort of thing. But I thing some of their common stuff may be imported now so double check and be careful! Older used OTC should be domestic. A bearing house should have those on the shelf but they'll be high. Ebay is a possibility as is craigs list. Sometimes a shop will be closing and liquidating equip. Estate sales are good but sounds like you need one sooner than later.
 
(quoted from post at 05:37:44 07/30/14) As stated below, I would never think of using a two jaw puller on a crankshaft pulley. Almost impossible to know if you are getting an even pull without cocking which would lock the pulley fast. When I get a tuff pulley to break loose I get it good and tight and hit the hub with heat smack the end of the screw with a hammer. Never takes much heat. Just enough to expand the hub without getting to the shaft.

I was just going by direction and expierence from this site. We were using a bearing seperator used behind the crank pulley, then used a 2 jaw puller to pull against the bearing seperator. The directions from the bearing seperator said to use with a 2 jaw puller.....and I think I had read that as well.
 
Bob, I've seen that puller method post many times and thought of doing that. I also posted this on the IH Farmall Board a couple weeks ago. I had mentioned how I was going to pull the pulley as it was recommended to me as another way besides the homemade bottle jack puller. Are you saying that I won't be able to pull crank pulleys with a GOOD puller set used with a bearing seperator and maybe a torch if needed?


(quoted from post at 08:10:13 07/30/14) Not to be a smart a$$, but if you had posted this ahead of time at the most LOGICAL place, the IH Tractors Board, you (and all those Strap-On fans who replied) would have known just how TOUGH it can be to remove those pulleys.

Asking there, (or an archive search will show you how the PROS do it).


(NOT for the faint of heart, as it involves a shop-made puller and a hydraulic jack.)
ONE way to git er done
 
I can vouch for the PROTO brand;. We pulled a lot of the gears and pulleys over the years with no breakage. One time I was pulling a gear on a JD 336 baler. My brother was tightening the puller with a cheater bar. There was a snap kind of noise. A piece of the gear shot out and knocked my eye tooth out. It happened so quick I felt no pain. Foumd my tooth and the piece of gear in my mouth. Oral Surgeon reimplantd it. The tooth fell out 30 years later.
Lesson if you really tighten any brand puller be very careful
 

When I decided that it was time to have a puller set, I flagged the Snap On truck down and ordered a kit that gives you about 40-11 options. I know that I spent the long dolla,r but I have used it a lot because it is very versatile with all the different length jaws and spreaders. I don't regret spending the $.
 
The bearing separator is the right direction as you spread the load onto the pulley. Look a post or two above at the gear being pulled off the JD crankshaft. The bearing separator should have two threaded holes for bolts or threaded rod so you can pull straight out.

The two jaw pulls at an angle and you have to generate more total force to get the same amount pulling straight out. (If you break it down into force vectors)
 

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