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Torque Wrench Reminder

J

Juicybusa2

Member
Buttoning up the JD 60 yesterday and went to torque the head nuts. They have a final torque value of 150 lb-ft. 60-nice click-80 nice click-100 hmm pulling pretty hard and moving the nuts several degrees of rotation and no click. Hmm not a professional mechanic but nearly always have a repair or engine project in progress. Fortunately for me that gives me a decent idea of what 100 lb-ft feels like. Got my other 1/2 in drive torque wrench out and immediately clicked at 100, then 110,120.130,140 WTF! Set the wrench for 150 and successfully applied final torque. Being the natural cynic and skeptic that everyone says I am, I had to double check with a friends borrowed wrench and all was good. The lesson is don't always blindly follow an instrument or wrench if it is obviously counterintuitive to your experience and gut feeling. Double check your results in situations like this and save yourself the cost and grief. Lol
 
A good mechanic doesn't trust anything, that is why it pays to double check things. Glad you caught it. I always do when I buy parts. When I was working in town we were overhauling a 3020 JD. They brought the reground crank in with new bearings. I always double check things....the bearings weren't the right ones as the oil holes didn't match up.
 
Where can one go to get a wrench calibrated? I have two Craftsman click-type wrenches that are probably 20 years old and have never been calibrated, one in 3/8" drive and one in 1/2" drive. They are the type that have two little windows in the handle, one for Ft-Lb and one for Nm and you simply rotate the handle until the desired torque value is displayed in the window.
 
If you're near a reasonably large city, there are probably calibration labs that can do the job for you (check yellow pages for "calibration service"). Or you could mail it to a lab if there are none nearby. In a pinch, you can calibrate it yourself. Google "torque wrench calibration" and you'll get plenty of hits.
 
It will probably cost more for you to get the tools calibrated than they are worth. I work for a company with a calibration lab. I can carry one in and check it on the tool rooms "bump checker" device or I can take it up to the calibration room and if they have a slack moment, they will check it for me.

Charles
 
You can use a know good beam style torque wrench to verify the settings are correct on a click type. I put the click style in a vise to hold it and connect the two wrenches together with a socket. You can quickly compare the readings on the bending beam scale with the settings on the other wrench.
 
(quoted from post at 10:02:34 07/24/14) That's why click-types need to be calibrated once in a while.
Click to expand...
hat is there to calibrate in the click types?.
Just a little square key (that clicks off center when the selected torque is reached) between 2 flats in the rod head and a compression spring behind it. the torque value setting lines on the handle are approximate at best.
A couple lbs under or over wont harm nothing
 
Several years ago Farm Show Magazine did a complete article on how to calibrate a Torque Wrench. I don't remember the issue number, but it might be worth checking out.

Doc :>)
 
I finally got around to buying a click wrench some time back.
Assemble with it, but I can't seem to stop myself from a final check with my old dependable beam wrench.
oh well, only takes a few minutes and doesn't hurt nothin
 
(quoted from post at 10:47:10 07/25/14)
What is there to calibrate in the click types?
Click to expand...

Obviously something needs to be calibrated on the OP's because it wasn't clicking when it should.
Click to expand...
n a click type wrench after use one has to turn the handle back to zero to release the pressure on the spring.
When the handle is turned back to far then the short square key i talked about can/will fall out of place between the head and spring rod...Result,..a locked up wrench.
Solution,..take the wrench apart and re-align the components.
It ain't rocket science.
 
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