EZ OUT broken off. How to remove

Greenfrog

Member
I have an EZ Out (screw/bolt extractor) broken off in a engine
mount bolt hole on a lawn tractor.
How to remove?
Is it too hard to drill out?
What do I do?
 
You can grind it out with a diamond burr in a dremel tool or there have been times where I could get a good hit on it with a center punch or chisel that I didn't mind ruining, and the ez out will shatter into small pieces..make sure you have goggles on and leather covering you up where you are exposed to the flying shrapnel.
 
Yes it's to hard to drill out. Heat, lube, work at it with a hammer and small punch, if it protrudes try welding a nut onto it. If you can get to the backside try drilling from the back/bottom. I broke one off in a VW head about 30 years ago ended up butchering the head up then junking it, haven't had much use for EZ-Outs since then. My High School shop teacher used to work in machine shops and factories during the summer warned us that breaking off taps & EZ outs was a bad thing. Claimed one time there was this really "big hunk of aluminium that everyone had been working on for a while" then "someone" broke off a tap in it, took 40 plus hours to get it out, "boy the boss was sure pi55ed off at that guy", wouldn't explain how he knew how mad the boss was.
 
If you have a gas welding torch, use the smallest welding head you have, like 0 or 00 and heat it up and then adjust the oxygen to burn it out. Have done it several times.
 
(quoted from post at 18:19:16 07/16/14)[b:0e416078dd] I have an EZ Out (screw/bolt extractor) broken off in a engine
mount bolt hole on a lawn tractor. [/b:0e416078dd]
How to remove?
Is it too hard to drill out?
What do I do?
Ye call that an [b:0e416078dd]easy ou[/b:0e416078dd]t!!!!. :)
Easy outs only work when the broke bolts is loose.

Good luck.
 
I once took a broken one out by drilling a series of small holes around the easy out.

It released the extractor and by the time the bolt was so drilled up the bolt came easily.

RT (my two cents)(It worked that time)
 
It sounds like you are saying you broke off a bolt in a motor mount threaded into the engine block. You drilled a hole thru the broken off part of the bolt. Did you drill all the way thru the broken off bolt and then try to use an EZ out? If you drilled all the way thru, can you take a punch and knock it back out.
Unless you have a very expensive set of EZ outs, I would be very reluctant to use them. I accidently bought a large box of them at an auction years ago and have never been able to break one. But the problem using them in your application of aluminum and steel touching each other is the chemical reaction locking the two metals together. When you use even a good EZ out you are just mushing metal from the from bolt outward and locking it in tighter. If I misunderstood your problem, could you post back again.
The plasma cutter idea works good. I would find a welding shop and ask they would try to do it.
After using the plasma cutter method, I think back when to when I had an old EDM setup to burn out broken bolts. Worked, but I had more ambition back then to do the setup.
 
I had one broke off once and I ended up breaking it up into little pieces to remove. That is harder to do though if it is broke off in a spot that you cant use a hammer and punch for fear of breaking the surrounding area.
 
I tried this once and it worked very well .
I cut two pieces of the thickest toughest high tensile wire that would slide down next to the broken ezy out in the gap created by the flutes . I think I may have opened out the hole a little by drilling next to the hardened steel . I kept the wire as short as I could to make sure it remained stiff . Then I tried a number of clamps and pliers but settled on a big pair of vyse grips to clamp the wires together and turn the ezy out back and forth until it loosened . Once the initial grip was broken the rest was a simple unwinding process .
 
Same answers you got down in garden tractors. Take it off and get to a machine shop before you really screw it up.
 
Consider this a LIFE LONG lesson learned. EZ-OUTs are *NOT* for removing stuck broken-off bolts!!!

EDM will probably cost more than a new engine.

Go to Lowe's and look through the tool section for small diamond hole saws. Get one big enough to cut AROUND the EZ-OUT, chuck it up in your drill, and go for it. You've got nothing to lose.

This worked for me. I had an EZ-OUT stuck in a 3/8" bolt. Bought a 3/8" diamond hole saw, drilled out the EZ-OUT, and threaded the hole for 7/16". Problem solved.
 
Thx for info. I had two bolts broke off. I drilled through both bolts...each about half inch long stub. I got one stub out...easy out went in nicely, heard a click whern it boke loose, and out it came. The other didn't work that way, being very careful,,but no clicka....just a snap when the easy out broke off. No machine shop is my area has EDM. The crankcase is steel cast..no aluminum here. On an old Cub Cadet 1320. One of the other holes (third hole, the bolt was half wore through and threads were bad in the casting) the threads were worn badly. Am going to retap this one a soon as I get a 17/64th bit for 5/16 bolt. Strange thing here, it is not a blind hole...it goes up into the crankcase. The other three holes go into little "feet" outcastings on the side of the crankcase...and are blind holes. Tractor sittin upright now..chain hoist...I lowered it down, sure enough oil came out. When I get it retapped, and bolt back in that should plug up the oil. Strange that they cast the engine in that way. As stated in "garden tractor" post, there is some sort of vibration going on here that caused three bolts to fall out/break off. Local implement dealer that sell Cub Cadets said i need to find source of vibration. First run it without mower deck on. We shall see after I solve the bolt problem....
 
If you're willing to take the cover off the engine, it can be drilled out with a carbide endmill in a Bridgeport. Be best not to shortcut the hole going into the oil. Also trying to hand drill the others will not get them straight. That will stress the bolt, even more likely to break.

I would go back with grade 8 bolts and grade 8 flat washers with red locktite.
 
Yes I know. these appeared to not be that tight, anyway the first one was not. I even soaked them down ;with penetrating oil (Kroiloil, best on the market) first.

Thanks to all you guys for the help and advise here. DS
 
Is it a vertical crankshaft engine? Would be cheaper and less hassle to just find a used sump (oil pan). Bet it wouldn't take too many broken drill bits to equal the cost.
 
One more thought, if the pads on the engine and the surface the engine bolts down to are wallowed and bellied out from running loose it most likely will not stay tight. Might want to machine the pads flat and weld plates over the holes and get a good flat surface to bolt to.
 
More than likely that's a cast iron block, not steel. Big difference in how they tolerate abuse. Bigger difference in how to repair them.

Do you have a welder? You could try welding a small stub on the ez-out and back it out the opposite direction that the flutes are cut in.

Those are pretty hard and not easy to grind. impossible to drill.
 
You can use a dermal and small round stones to grind them out. I may be like writing (I will never do this again) on the black board 100 tims with the whole class watching. Probly just as effective also.
 
Good idea. I did just that. Went to Lowes, found a 5/16 diamond hole saw. It says to use on marble, ceramic, brick, glass. doesn't say anything about steel. I assume steel is softer....right?
 
You mean Dremel rotary tool. good idea..

I do typos too.....fingers too big for sensitive keyboard. They say if the first letter and the last letter of a misspelled word it there one can still figure it out. The word misspelled is commonly misspelled!!!!!!!
 
I learned more today from mechanic at CC implement dealer. Said yes to using grade 8 NF bolts with lock nuts on and lock washers. If I use red Loctite, what IF someone would want to take this engine off?????
They said to use the blue loctite.............
 
A little heat with a propane, mapp,or acetylene torch will turn red locktite loose. Just heat until you smell it, it will come right out.

But, if everything is right, blue should do the job.
 
Brother, you and I are in agreement there. There
are decent extractors that work well in certain
situations. Easy outs only work when you really
didn't need to use one to begin with.
 
(quoted from post at 09:19:10 07/17/14) Yes I know. these appeared to not be that tight, anyway the first one was not. I even soaked them down ;with penetrating oil (Kroiloil, best on the market) first.

Well, let me dispel another myth for you that might help in the future:

Penetrating oil does not work instantly.

So many times I read stories from guys who hose down a rusty bolt with PB, Kroil, whatever, slap a wrench on it, and proceed to twist the bolt off.

Then the foul words come out. That penetrating oil ain't no good, blah blah blah...

No, it's because you didn't give it time to work!

Penetrating oil needs days, weeks, months to do its job on a stuck bolt.

If you need instant action, you need an oxyacetylene torch.
 
Yes and on top of the misspelled words from just misspelling them, on my left hand the little finger and ring finger do not always move when signaled to do so.
 
I have had success drilling out broken easy outs with a titanium drill bit. Not titanium coated, but actual titanium. You can order from Msc or McMaster. Best to set it up on a drill press or use a drill guide to keep things straight.
 
Second the dremel tool and dental burrs. Sometimes a carbide burr will work. a diamond burr usually works. I have removed broken "EZ - outs" and broken high speed steel taps with them. Go SLOWLY, keep the parts cool, work from the "flutes" toward the center. Cut the broken "EZ - out" or broken Tap stub into sections or pieces. Remove the pieces one at a time. Use air or vacuun to keep the chips out of the recesses. Wear safety glass or a full face shield, or both. Good luck.
 
You can get a 3/16 or 5/16 full radius carbide end mill from msc. They are the best thing since sliced bread. Will go rite through th EZ out. Did it on dads wd-45 when I tried to get a manifold bolt out. Then broke the EZ out. Worked great!
 
Yes I know. Ez out is general term...kind of like saying weed
eater for all line trimmers. A brand name that has taken on a
name to stand for all. Anyway, the ones I have appear to be of
good quality.
Thanks for thinking ...
 
UPDATE. On this project. Thanks to all that contributed to my problem.
I have all 4 bolts in now. I found that two of the 5/16 blind holes were worn...bolt didn't fit tight.. Probably due to these having been loos and vibrated some to where they fell out. Remember 3 of these fell out before.
I retapped two of them to 3/8 nf. The problem is with the 4th hole...it is not a blind hole...opens up into the crankcase. I checked with implement dealer mechanic and said thiat this was not unusual. Good thing that bolt did not fall out!!!!!!
However when I lowered the tractor back down...this bolt wants to leak oil...not good. I retapped it to 3/8 and put in a log bolt with thread lock. It says to let cure for 24-36 hours. I called the company on this.
I will let tractor down tomorrow ...front end is hoisted up...
Question: if this still leaks, HOW do I stop this leak. I was surprised that it was leaking.
Pipe thread tape?
JB weld above the end of the bolt?
Pack it with something?
This is a real odd ball problem. Can't figure out why this is not a blind hole..
Get new oil pan? this will give me four new holes.
Suggestions?......
 

I would use a stud instead of the bolt and wrap it with green teflon tape 3 or 4 turns and torque it down.
I use teflon tape on all bolts that are open to the crankcase or water jackets. i had never had one leak yet
 
(quoted from post at 18:37:39 07/20/14) Yes I know. Ez out is general term...kind of like saying weed
eater for all line trimmers. A brand name that has taken on a
name to stand for all. Anyway, the ones I have appear to be of
good quality.
Thanks for thinking ...

I think that this is worth clarifying for others contemplating purchase of extractors. It is my observation that EZ outs are the spiral type whereas extractors are straight with slight taper and with a cutting edge ground into each corner to enable it to grip. The extractors have significantly greater cross section for the diameter of the hole that they go into, hence they are considerably stronger.
 
Very good idea.
Who might have stud bolts?

Tell me more about green Teflon tape. I am not familiar with the green type.
Thanks.
 
Any auto parts store will have manifold studs. I bought a set off the rack at the local AutoZone recently. They had a set for 5/16" and a set for 3/8".

In the sealant/lube/thread locker aisle, they also have a "Thread Sealant" product for just your situation.
 
Thank you for the info.
Let"s rewind here...what is the advantage if using a stub bolt?
I can sort of see why, but not real clear on this....

Also, FYI...I used Loctite thread locker tape. It was a free
sample that they sent me. Wrapped on like Teflon and
suppose to cure.....we shall see!,
 
Yes you are right. I restored a 2 row JD planter...I soaked the
nuts several times for several weeks. Every nut came loose.
I guess kroil is the best, then pb blaster...I guess kroil with
silicone is even better...the silicone acts as a carrier for the
oil...they claim. I have had good luck with it...
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top