shed question

larry@stinescorner

Well-known Member
this is a 10by 12 shed we have in PA. The frame is sound ,but the t 1 11 siding is ahot on two sides due to weather,and the doors are rotting too, The roof is not too bad,but does appear to leak in a few spots, I am thinking of going over it with metal siding and roofing. I can get the material from Kistler pole buildings,its not far from us.I would like to try to tackle it myself ,but have never done it before. My question is on the barn shaped roof .I know there would be a cap piece on the ridge,but what do you do on the rest of the roof where the first bend is?
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Also,does anyone know aproximatly what it would cost for materials to do it?
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and,since I am in the planning stage,does my idea sound ok? Thanks,,,,,Larry
 
You might think about putting the tin on this way,
if you lap it right it should not leak. Around here
all the Menards stores have sheds in the parking
lots to put your cart in when your done unloading
it. They have the tin on metal frames that are 5
feet apart and it holds the snow load in MN. I made
wood rafters and put them 3 feet apart, where it is
located in the woods the wind will not blow the
snow off at all.
a163132.jpg

a163134.jpg
 
I have seen hip roofs tinned two different ways. The roof will be sheeted with two seperate rows of tin. The basic method is simply having the top row extend past the edge of the hip/bend far enough to cover the profile of the bottom layer of tin. The other method would be to use a drip edge and/or ridge cap between the two rows or over the hip joint. As to an accurate guess on material cost, more info is needed (ie height of building and type of metal siding and roofing). If you did it all with the basic pro-rib sheeting Menards sells I would say it will cost you at least $600 to cover the shed. This is guessing that your shed is 12' tall and you do not plan on replacing any part of the shed (windows, doors, subsheeting etc. HTH
 
Photos can be deceiving but that roof looks ok to me. I'd leave it
alone. The door and some of the walls look a little tired, replace
what needs replacing and give it good coat of paint.

Harvey
 
You put the top on first and let it extend two to
three inches past the roof,then put the bottom piece
up under it and lap past the bottom a couple of
inches.Measure the total square feet and call the
local lumber yard and they can give you an estimate
on cost.Of course you need to add screws and trim to
the price.
 
I looked at mine.
Bottom 1st, Then a flashing that goes over top of the bottom about
2 inches and is bent to match the roof. the other side nails down
holding it in place. The top goes on next it sits on top of the
flashing and hangs out about 2 inches. The flashing is bent to
match the roof 2-3 inches on the down side and about 8-9 inches
for the top part.
 
There should be a nice wide piece of flashing that goes over the hip area, under the upper section, over the lower section. Better safe than sorry.
 
Your shed roof is called a Gambrel Roof. To cover that joint you need what is called an upper Gambrel Flashing. If you want a really nice looking storage building and judging from the pictures you post, I think you do, you will have to spend the money to get and use all the trim pieces that are available. If you want any kind of guarantee, you will have to do the job the way the manufacturer says to do it. All manufacturers have basically the same trim pieces.
ABC roofing manua

ABC roofing
 
That is what I would use, too. That way it would also help prevent water from back "siphoning" from the lower edge of the top sheet.
 

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