Hammer/U Drive Screws

CGID

Member
RE: My previous post about Hammer Drive screws:
How about if I call them U Drive Screws? Anyone with experience using these to attach sheet metal to wood?
 
Dave Sherbunre's reply shows them. Thank you Dave. In metal, just drill a pilot hole and whack the screw with a hammer. It drives, screws and locks in place all at the same time. I'm wondering about their use in wood.
 
The screws in my building are screwed in with no pilot hole, they self drill and go into wood.
 
After you hammer in your first or second fastener, you'll realize that screws are the only way to go when fastening steel to wood. Wood bounces, particularly when you get towards the center of a purlin or girt on a post frame building. So you hit the nail, the hammer and nail bounce, you make a second swing and squarely hit your thumb.

Hammer-driven fasteners tend to bend the wood fibers away from the steel, so over time the nail will get looser as the fibers return to their original orientation. Screws bend the wood fibers towards the steel, so the fibers tend to pull the fastener tighter.

Everyone who is telling you to get out your wallet and buy screws intended for your purpose has already been down this road. And if you're going to be driving a bunch of them, also buy a corded screw gun with a depth-sensitive clutch.
 
(quoted from post at 07:31:13 07/09/14) After you hammer in your first or second fastener, you'll realize that screws are the only way to go when fastening steel to wood. Wood bounces, particularly when you get towards the center of a purlin or girt on a post frame building. So you hit the nail, the hammer and nail bounce, you make a second swing and squarely hit your thumb.

Hammer-driven fasteners tend to bend the wood fibers away from the steel, so over time the nail will get looser as the fibers return to their original orientation. Screws bend the wood fibers towards the steel, so the fibers tend to pull the fastener tighter.

Everyone who is telling you to get out your wallet and buy screws intended for your purpose has already been down this road. And if you're going to be driving a bunch of them, also buy a corded screw gun with a depth-sensitive clutch.


Ditto! Go with screws and get them a little longer than you think you need.
 
Yes, they aren't worth a darn, over time they loosen up & you have to re-drive them. You are better off to initially buy Hex-head self-tapping sheet-metal screws of the appropriate length for your job; and use an adjustable torque, clutch driver with an appropriate sized hex-driver in the chuck.


:>)
 
I'd sure go with conventional hex-head screws as used for sheet metal on pole barns. They also have a rubber washer that seals the hole. With lighter gauge metal, 28 or 29 gauge, you don't even have to drill a hole, they will drill themselves through the metal. 20 gauge, not so sure- may have to drill a hole. But I think you'll be much happier with screws (that you put on with a magnetic nut-driver head in a cordless drill) than with anything that you hammer on. Sure a lot easier on your fingers and thumb.
 
Oh, that's right- I'd forgotten about that fun little aspect of nailing on sheet metal. Last time I used nails was about 40 years ago- finally got smart and used a pair of pliers to hold the nail, before I permanently maimed my thumb and fingers.

Still got a sack of those nails with the rubber gaskets under the heads- believe I'll go home tonight and make a point of throwing them in the garbage.
 
Self-drilling screws for steel siding/roofing are one of man's greatest achievements.

I tried helping Dad nail up the roofing on the milkhouse about 25 years ago. After bludgeoning my forefinger and thumb to a bloody pulp after about 6 nails, I said enough of that and went to "ground crew."
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top