check engine light

JOB

Member
The check engine light in my daughters 2006 Focus will not stay off. We have changed or fixed what was said to cause the light to come on. Had the light turned off and it comes back on again. The Ford dealer wants lots of money too replace or repair what is suggested by the diagnostic machine but makes no promises's that the light will stay off. Where she lives the car has to pass an emissions test to get the license plates renewed and the check engine light is an automatic failure. Any suggestions?

My 2001 Ford Windstar had a check engine light that would not go off so I just ignored it. After a few years with the light always on it turned itself off. It still lights up with the key on but not with the engine running.
 
Do you have the fault code available? It should be on the receipt from the dealer or you can get it read at most parts stores. The code is needed to help. This link is to a good site for Focus owners. My daughter has one.
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/
 
Don't know where you live but here in NC you only have to prove you spent $200 for a shop to fix the problem to get a waiver. Still needs fixing though.
 
post the code.. some evap codes come on due to leaks, and will keep coming back on..e tc.

how long does it stay off? a day? if so, flip for a cheapy code reader at harbor freight and use it to turn the code off while setting across the street from the check point. drive thru get checked and go. if it keeps doing it.. keep pulling codes till you narrow it down.
 
The dealer told you what they found on diagnostic machine. Can't you or a friend do the work that they said that needed to be done?
 
I have a jeep Liberty that does the same thing, Shop has had it and said they can't find out what's keeping the light on! I guess I'll have to take it to a jeep dealer and see if they can tell me why the light stays on !! Oh well, I just keep driving it, what else can I do ?? Jim in N.M.
 
If the computer tells you there's something wrong, it's usually right.

It's frustrating that you can't get an inspection sticker with the light on - but, what can you do.

I'd just get it fixed.

The brake light in my 88 f150 often comes on because there's some slop in the old parking brake mechanism.

Iv'e got brand new cables, brake parts, etc. etc. all adjusted nice and perfect, the parking brake holds the truck just as it should. But because it doesn't always pop up the last 1/8 of an inch to shut the light off - I got a reject sticker.

The mechanic could see the problem with his own eyes, and knew it was fine - but he HAD to reject me because the light told him so. Very frustrating.

I had to take it home, put a rubber band on it to hold it up, and bring it back to pass!
 
The Check Engine light is there for a purpose and will provide "Codes" which help to diagnose the problem. The problem of ignoring the light is that if something serious developed in addition to the minor issue, you wouldn't know it until it was too late. Most parts stores have code readers and will read your code for no charge. Write the code or codes down (ex: P0455, P0301 etc) and post them here. Maybe some of us can guide you in the right direction. Most codes are not that expensive to correct, especially if you do the work yourself. Good luck, Jonathan
 
Soundguy- when you erase the code, you automatically reset the readiness monitors. A vehicle WILL NOT pass the emissions test unless the drive cycle has been completed and the readiness monitors reset. There are several of them and usually takes about 50 miles or so under a variety of driving conditions. The evap monitor may take longer as it has certain perimeters to meet ie: temperature, speed, fuel capacity etc. Sometimes in winter, the evap monitor may not reset (run) for months. This being said, that is way one cannot just disconnect the battery cable or turn the light off across the street and then pass the emissions test.
 
Try taking it to a small independent shop. They often get things like that fixed easier and cheaper than a dealer can.
 
I've got several cel's to go out by cleaning or replacing the gas cap. Seems to be a common problem, as I've met mechanics that do that first.
 
I just went threw that in my 2000 ford motor home. "service engine soon" Code said corroded coil terminals.
ford wanted $ 126.00 each and you need 8 of them on that engine plus the wire to the spark plug. That was $ 56.000 each shop price is $ 110.00 per hr.
NAPA price was $ 98.00 each for the coils and $ 36.00 for the wires. The job took a friend four hrs. at $ 25.00 per hr.
It sure pays to shop around.
 
We replaced all what the machine told us to fix and the light comes back on again.
 
I will get the code from my daughter again, and post back.

I put in two ignition coils. changed the engine temperature sender twice.

I have asked on here before and have been helped by you folks but the light does not want to stay off.
 
HOpefully its not the dreaded P070 code (not sure if thats it) that would indicate a failing catalytic converter. Our 2000 subaru outback was plagued with check engine light problems. OUr mechanc tried to fix it with an after market converter but it would not work. We ended up getting rid of the car.
 
I agree with ss55 about taking your car to an independent shop. The code was an evap leak but they found no leak with a smoke test. What they found was a frayed, bare, and corroded electrical connection that kept the "check engine" light on. The mechanic guessed it was probably gnawed on by a mouse or squirrel. The light had been on for many months and I finally got tired of looking at it. It"s finally off now.
 
At the auto zone parts store this is what they came up with.

Old
P0128: coolant temp low
P1289: cylinder head temp sense out of high range
P0119: engine coolant temperature sensor circuit intermittent or erratic
New
P0122: throttle/pedal position sensor "A" circuit low
P0190: Fuel rail pressure sensor condition
P0112: intake air temperature sensor circuit low

The thermostat and housing was changed to correct the low temperature. The cylinder head temperature sensor was changed twice.
The last 3 I just found out about.
 
Wow, you have some work to do if you want to do it. All those sensors won't read faulty at the same time except for one reason, wiring problem. Each sensor will have a nominal 5 volts DC at one of the pins in the connector(s) at each sensor with the key turned to on or the engine running. Bet you have a bad ground somewhere in the harness or a corroded or loose connection somewhere around the engine, smart junction box or fuse panel. Also, check all your fuses in the engine bay. One or more may be loose or blown. A live scanner reading would be helpful while you are moving the wires around, but that process is too lengthy to detail here. Wishing you luck finding the bad connection/wire.
 
Sounds to me like you had air in the cooling system and it just needed to be bleed out. That would have happened when you changed the thermostat. That also would explain the first erratic sensor codes. If the other codes didn't show up until AFTER the work was done, then they have to be caused by the thermostat repair work. Are the sensors even connected? Did they get wet when changing the thermostat? Were wires broken? Are ground wires attached correctly? All of them are in close proximity and may be in the same harness. All of these sensors will not go bad all at once and you should be able to find a simple solution fairly easily. Just look closely at all of the above. Good luck. JT
 

"Failure" of two new sensors should have raised suspicions at the failure of the first failed new sensor.
Did anybody use a multimeter and measure the sensor?
I agree when a sensor input is off scale high or low. wiring and grounds are suspect. It isn't ground but it's a chassis return but anyways . It's what it's called. After some time and rust. Sometimes it's best to just run those common ground points on the chassis right back to the battery with an extra new cable.
 
Take the dash apart and put a black piece of foam in front of the light bulb in the socket. That's what I did on our 02 avalanche 2 years ago when the mechanic told me $1500 to fix (I don't remember what the problem was). He said that the problem really would not hurt anything, just the light was annoying to me so I (fixed) it lol.
 
Sounds like a good idea if you can find the correct bulb. Don't know what their emissions yest entails though.
 
You're probably right, but, on the other side, there is probably a common regulated +5 or +12 Volts common supply TO The sensors. GOTTA look at that side, as well!
 

I would be re-bonding the common chassis (-) connections and running a new wire from them back to the battery (-). On every little place of the vehicle where there is a (-) connection. Before jumpering out a warning light.
MAF problems can often be reduced or eliminated with a few minutes cautious use of a long Q-Tip and brake cleaner to remove grease and dirt.
 
(quoted from post at 02:55:08 07/11/14) At the auto zone parts store this is what they came up with.

Old
P0128: coolant temp low
P1289: cylinder head temp sense out of high range
P0119: engine coolant temperature sensor circuit intermittent or erratic
New
P0122: throttle/pedal position sensor "A" circuit low
P0190: Fuel rail pressure sensor condition
P0112: intake air temperature sensor circuit low

The thermostat and housing was changed to correct the low temperature. The cylinder head temperature sensor was changed twice.
The last 3 I just found out about.

I've been told by 'tech types' that if the initial code is not attended to it will cause a 'snowball' effect and trigger additional codes to be initiated. :shock:
 

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