How do you jack the corner post of a barn? (4 pics)

sflem849

Well-known Member
The sill plate and post are rotted off and I would like to replace the rotten sections. Not sure what other info to give. I think the pictures will speak more than words. The right hand jack is just jacking the window frame. The beam is no longer pinned to the post.







 
I have jacked a corner post by drilling through it and bolting an iron to it with 5/8" threaded rod. Jack on the iron, replace post as necessary, remove iron, then reinforce around repair joint.
 
I have done it by taking a piece of 8x8 or whatever size you need,
cutting one side off on an angle so that it is tapered like a wedge
and then running a couple of chains around the post and the
wedge. Then you can jack to the bottom of the wedge. Get the
chains as tight as possible and keep the wedge low at first, as you
jack the wedge up it will draw the chains tight and then lift the
post.
Zach
 
I did it very similarly to Bob, except I used 7/8 rod and a piece of two inch thick hard wood. Another thing before jacking the corner be sure that the next post back is carrying as much of the load as it is supposed to.
 
I would use steel scaffold screw jacks if you can hire them . A steel scaffold tube vertically either side of the wall resting on blocks and a jack , join the vertical tubes [ using scaffold connectors] with a short horizontal one that passes through the wall and directly under the nearest load bearing beam to the rotten post. In this way the load is supported in a stable way , the jacks can then be screwed up just enough to remove the old post . This method also gives you enough room to work when fitting the replacement .

Looks like a great barn .
 
Well if you were to cut a notch in the side/bottom of the timber you could then use the jack direct to the bottom of the timber. This would give you the other half of the timber to start the blocking process as you go up. Then once you reach the height you desire take a timber the same size and place under the bottom end with this you can then bolt it through the side and pull it into place as you remove the other blocks and jack. Grease will be your friend for the timber to slide on , or a piece of steel plate under the end. The old timber will be cut about 2- 4 feet up from the bottom about half way through then down to the bottom end then you can cut off what is rotten on the bottom end of what is left. With the blocks in place the new timber is set into place beside the original timber. Then the bolts are tightened to pull them together. as this is done the blocks will be forced out from under the end of the timber. You might have to place a block against the side and drive it over with a sledge hammer as you finish tightening the bolts. This gives a step like to the repair when done with the whole timber resting on the new piece.
 
I made some "L" shaped brackets and bolted them to the beam and jacked them up as shown in pictures. I took out the old foundation and poured new footers and walls and set it back down.I did about ¼ of the building at a time. I cut the rotted portion off and made the wall taller to compensate
mvphoto8850.jpg
 
Those ceiling joists look pretty good. Build a crib wall on the inside of the foundation from the ground up to the bottom of the ceiling joists. You can jack the crib wall and block it until you get a new exterior wall built. Do a section at a time until you have the exterior wall replaced where it is rotten.

I've also built full length screw jacks and done the same thing by placing a timber under the joists and jacking between the bottom of the timber and the ground. It's the easiest of the two but you'd have to build, borrow or steal some jacks. It wouldn't take long to build yourself an new exterior wall using the full length screw jack method.

One thing I should mention. Those bottle jacks are not safe. I had one come loose doing what you're doing and it passed my head traveling at the speed of sound. The forces on that 4x4 are greater than you realize until you see that jack come shooting out sideways. I got the message and spent the rest of the week building screw jacks.
 
One thing I should mention. Those bottle jacks are not safe. I had one come loose doing what you're doing and it passed my head travelling at the speed of sound.


Have to agree , a similar thing happened to me , the small end of the hydraulic jack just doesn't have enough friction to stay put . What ever your resources are, go slow and work clever.
 

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