Briggs carb primer

Chris Jones · Jul 2, 2014

I purchased a 1 year old briggs mower that no longer works because they hit something with it and bent the crank shaft and sheered flywheel key--see picture. I'm parting it out. I removed the carb and noticed in addition to the fuel line inlet barb there is a small barb who's passage turns inside the carb and mates to the primer bulb which is part of the air cleaner housing. But there is no line fitted to the barb and I don't know where the line would go to if I was to put one on it. Can someone tell me it's purpose?

Lou from Wi. · Jul 2, 2014

Normally the line is open as it requires outside air for the bulb to return to its original position to be pressed again,but that is on the older models, newer models may have it coneccted inside the air box or elsewhere to match EPA regulations. Others may know for sure. Briggs may have a online schematic where you can look it up for sure.
HTH>
LOU

Chris Jones · Jul 2, 2014

I found a hose in a schematic but it didn't say where the other end went. The hole in the bulb lets the air into the bulb and when you push it you cover the hole pushing the air into the bowl. Since posting I confirmed that pushing the bulb pushes air out into the bowl as well as out via that barb. I'm beginning to think that barb is just a way to keep someone from building too much pressure in the bowl. But then why a barb with a hose attached to it? Well if nobody else knows I'll start taking a good look in the store at similar engines on new mowers for sale and see if I can tell.

Bob M · Jul 2, 2014

My suspicion is there's a hose connected to the extra barb for engines sold in California to make them CARB emissions compliant. Just my guess however...

FWIW I've had some success straightening mildly bent push mower crankshafts by "persuading" them back into line with a sledge hammer. Then replace the flywheel key and see what you get.

Chris Jones · Jul 2, 2014

It'd run. I have unbent one but I disassembled it and used a press but there's a reason shops don't unbend them any more--liability and labor costs. I have made pretty good use of this mower already. It had big back wheels and looked like new. I had also purchased a somewhat plain looking mower that started every time on the first pull and ran great. I combined the big wheel deck and the good engine and sold it for probably double what I could have sold the plain looking one for. BTW in the pic it's just sitting on--not even bolted to--the left over deck--not the nice one it came on.

Now I'll part out this engine with the bent crank on ebay. I figure the carb, gas tank, and rewind starter sold on ebay might bring more than if it was a running mower.

Bob M · Jul 2, 2014

I agree about the liability issue Chris. have only used a mower with a re-straightened shaft for myself - would never sell one.

Incidentally I love those high wheel mowers. The one I own came to me with a seized engine (owner never checked the oil). I swapped it for good running OHV Briggs engine salvaged from a mower picked off the curb on trash day. It had been scrapped on account of rusted out deck. End result is a VERY nice mower for no cost!

Chris Jones · Jul 2, 2014

The one I put together was a nice machine. It was an older flat head engine but ran sweet and the deck was like new, high wheel, and it did maneuver well at least in normal yard use.

Personally I only cut a steep ditch bank with a push mower and I don't know what I'll do when my 1973 Western Auto quits. It's about 20 years into it's second deck now. Given the "new" deck which was salvage, was not as tall as the original I traced the circle the engine needed to fit down in and the outside diameter of the engine and cut out a spacer from 3/4 plywood to keep the blades from hanging below the deck.

I soaked it in used motor oil and it's still doing fine. I up-graded the wheels about 10 years ago with those from, like you, a mower I found beside the road. These are an inch or two larger than the originals and roll so much better. The main reason I can't let this one go is it's small and light weight--only 18" cut.

johnlobb · Jul 2, 2014

I had asked a question down in the garden tractors forum because a single mom friend of my son had exactly that mower quit running. I took the carb apart and blew it out with carb cleaner. I pulled the little plug you're talking about and shot carb cleaner in the hole and replaced (pushed it back in) the plug. The mower runs great now. I found nothing to cause any trouble. And I agree, this mower runs great (a Briggs and Stratton over head valve engine). It pushes real easy with the large wheels on the back and is very maneuverable. The only thing I did not like about it is where you check the oil and put oil in. There is a small cutout on the engine shroud that you have to work through to do anything with the oil. I had to put the new oil in with a turkey baster.

T.R.K. · Jul 2, 2014

Epa emissions. Don"t you love them?

There is going to be some sort of evaporative canister hooked to the hose barb. To catch any fuel that evaporates from the carburetor.

Briggs" bigger engines had the elbow for about a year before it was finally hooked up to anything.

Briggs carb primer

Chris Jones

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Lou from Wi.

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Chris Jones

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Bob M

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Chris Jones

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Bob M

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Chris Jones

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johnlobb

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T.R.K.

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