sand blaster question

JOB

Member
All the sand blasters that have a pot and has the pot pressurized while blasting look pretty much the same. Do they all work the same or are some junk and others clean metal real good.

I was going to buy one on Craig s list and asked the seller if I could try it out at his place to see how it works first and he said no. The model of the one he was selling is no longer made.

above is a picture of what is being sold.
a161595.jpg
 
It has a lot to do what ,and how much you are going to do with it.
The you one you show is better than some cheap ones, but by no means a commercial unit.
The "foot" [bottom, where sand and air mix] is important, if that is only pipe fittings it won't last long. But can be replaced, and if you are only doing small jobs may be alright.
I'm NO EXPERT. but have done a lot of blasting ,and would talk to you, if you thought it would help,
 
Ball valves under/behind it to control air and material flow?

I've got a HF cheapie that works pretty well, other than the valve at the nozzle was worthless. I shut off the air to stop the flow, never bothered to buy a better unit.

That one looks unused. The seller might have read up on silicosis and decided against use at his house. Or he may only have a dinky compressor.

I use a serious respirator. Ceramic nozzles don't last very long, other than that my steel gets clean in a hurry. Hope you have a substantial compressor.
 
Hi
I have one of the same design.
It"s well made, but your air compressor is what makes the difference.
I have a 6HP 33 gallon and it doesn"t have enough CFM to let the sandblaster work well.
Be sure your compressor can meet the needs of any sandblaster you chose to purchase.
Good luck,
 
One thing you might want to modify is on the bottom is a tee fitting. I changed mine to a cross fitting. Now if I get a clog I can remove a pipe plug from the bottom and stick a welding rod up into the tank to clear the jammed up [ usually moist] sand out. Before I did that I would have to uncrew the hose clamps ,remove the hose unscrew the T fitting then unjam it with a rod. It is much easier to just have the bottom removable plug in the cross. It is about five minutes vs an hour time to clear any jams.
 
Do you have a high volume pressure washer ? I have been well satisfied with a sand blast attachment on one of them ....and NO silicosis, just a big mess of wet sand on the ground. Search threads here about it .
 
The size of the blaster makes no difference as to how much air you need it's all about the nozzle. The bigger the nozzle the more air you need and the faster you go through sand but the faster you can blast. The unit you show looks pretty nice for most applications, looks to hold about 100 lbs which for me is big enough. After blasting through 100 lbs I am ready to take a break anyway. If you blast a lot, look into getting a boron carbide tip, they are expensive but will last a very long time, mine is over 5 years old now.
 
Brands I don't remember, but both have screw on filters covered by a thinner particulate filter. The respirator covers nose and mouth, securely attached to your head with elastic straps.

Same respirators I use for spraying finishes with toxic reducers. What you want is a good tight fit, for silica you don't need something to capture toxic reducers. But the tight fit is critical.

If you shop for respirators, you'll find a selection. Any autobody supplier will have good ones. Even better would be a respirator that supplied fresh air from a distance. If I did this much, I'd have one.
 
Forgot to mention that when I discovered my 2 stage IR compressor was a little small for sandblasting, IR told me to run the compressor 90/120 which greatly increased CFM. I added an 80 gallon tank to make up for the storage loss.

The HF blaster does not get ahead of my IR compressor now. As I was blasting large steel, up to 30' long, I added a better air filtration to my compressor.

Took a filter housing from an Oldsmobile, welded a 3/4" nipple to it that screws into the IR head. Now I've got an air filter meant for a big V8. Far better than the dinky filter IR supplied, and a whole lot cheaper to replace.
 
You're welcome.

The respirator brands are 3M model 7300 and Survivaire Blue (USD Corp.). The Survivaire is better, and if you find one I have a lifetime supply of various screw-on filters from ebay. Don't buy any.
 

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