Manifold repair

jon f mn

Well-known Member
Got this manifold from a friend to try to repair. A friend of his dropped it and broke one end off. When I got it apart and started to clean it up I found the cracks in the port and across the top as well. While cleaning it up for welding a piece even fell out. Of course that is in the part that is behind the air intake and hard to get to. Tried to weld it with nomacast and nickel but it's too thin. Going to try some cast weld with the torch next. Never done that before, but want to give it a try. Probly be next time I get home tho. Anyone who has done some cast welding before and has any advice I would appreciate it.
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gas weld it with cast iron filler and the proper flux ,consult with your welding supplier for the proper rod and flux .

that is the only way to repair a manifold .
 
That's what I'm going to do, was looking for any hints about procedure since I've never done that before.
 

Jon,

Get out the fire bricks ,the bare cast rod,
the flux , also the weed burner for preheat and
post heat. Looks like a case manifold .

Didn't I show you what to do when you were here?

Call if you want to chat about it. I'll be

here for a while yet. More

pictures at the link.

<p align="center">
Imported%20from%20quPicture_0018_jpgqu.jpg
</p>

george
welding cylinder head
 
You did, but I may have forgotten some. And I don't have your number anymore. My e-mail is open if you want to send it to me again that would be good.
 
Jon,

Very few of the welding supplies stock the

cast rod and flux . I have plenty if you don't

find some . Flux from Cleveland and rod from

texas.

<p align="center">
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oven with 2 propane burners to heat
casting to 1200 deg F to weld</p>

george
repairing 6 HP york engine
 
Jon,

Not for this job but check out Lincoln Ferroweld for use on manifolds.

I've seen some pretty handy repairs done with it.

And we can't get it in OZ now either.
 
I've got a friend that is an old time blacksmith/welder. He was welding caste, years before people decided you couldn't weld it. I have seen him weld things that I would never have guessed were possible. A couple propane torches, a wood fire, or a bed of coal. The guy could always come up with a way to get the job done.
He is fighting cancer so bad now, that he can't do much of anything. Sure wish I would have paid more attention, when he was trying to teack me.
 
You're using a torch with about 5800 deg's to weld it. Sometimes on big pieces you have to keep the preheat torch/oven on it while you weld or keep parts of it wrapped in a fire blanket to hold the heat. Have your torch and everything ready for when it's preheated enough. I've welded on thick vessels where you have to keep a big preheat torch on it when you weld. That's usually about 400 deg's. Don't know if I'd like doing a large cast iron piece at 1200 deg's though. LoL
 
Jon, try "Castolin Eutectic" , it's an AC/DC rod made specifically for cast iron repair. It's a bit pricy but well worth it. I've had very good luck using it. Also, on that break-out piece, wedge a small block of pure, hard Graphite behind it as a back-up and then weld the piece in place, (remove the Graphite block after everything cools).

Doc
 

Phil,

I'm glad I am not the only one the says

O/A is the only way to repair manifolds

successfully .

I answered the mail.

george
 

Doc,

It doesn't matter what flavor arc rod you use

when the puddle cools it contracts and that

material has to come from somewhere , and being

cast iron is not ductile, it will pull apart,

either in the weld or next to the weld depending

on whether the weld cooled enough to be strong

or not. You can get away with arc on an ear

or in a bend because there it can move.


george
 

Stick,

I think we have been here before, You need

a minimum of 900 to 1000 degrees to get all the

expansion out (dull red shows at that temp) and

to have some time to weld before it gets down to

900 you need to have about 1200 degrees . To

make the work machinable when done you need to

normalize ( hold 1500 for 15 to 20 minutes and

must take 30 minutes to come down to 1200.

george
 


Steve,

Take the tour of the web site and the

photo host , no pict's of doing because I

can't do both at the same time.

http://www.georgemillermachine.com/

http://www.imageevent.com/gmachine

george
 
George,

I hauled a Wallace which is the same as your Massey- Harris From up by Worcester MA to central IL Pontiac area if I remember right. Was kind of cool tractor in it's time. The one I hauled was on steel with rubber belt around the wheels without the lugs for parades. They were nose heavy if on an incline like going up or down ramps.
Nice shop and work. Do you do send out work? I have an exhaust manifold for an old D-4 cat that could use some of your magic.
 

The MH is not mine , it was the feature tractor

at the national pike show in brownsville ,pa.

Send me an email with a picture of the damage

in the manifold.

george
 

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