Automotive A/C leak detector question

atlarge54

Member
What experience does anyone have? How much will I need to spend on something that works ok? I've had cars that needed charged once a year but this one leaks down in about a week. I assume the condenser is more prone to damage than the other components. If the system has pressure does checking the condenser with a bubble solution work very well?

Thanks
 
Get the UV type leak detection. Lots of auto parts places sell them as a kit. The can with the fluid, a pen light, and the glasses. Most of the other stuff, like the red dye make a mess. The kits don't cost much.
 
I've used the dye and the electronic sensor. Both
with mixed and sometimes poor results. I've
pulled a vacuum on some AC systems and they'd hold
steady for 24 hours. Then I'd charge and it would
leak out in a week. Sometimes a leak will not
show under vacuum or under high pressure. Some
leak when shut-off at low pressure.

I've had the most success with the problem mystery
leakers by hooking an air-chuck to the AC and
pressurizing with 20-30 PSI. Then spraying with a
hand-held spray bottle with soapy water. THAT has
found problem leaks for me when nothing else
would.
 
(quoted from post at 07:39:10 06/07/14) What experience does anyone have? How much will I need to spend on something that works ok? I've had cars that needed charged once a year but this one leaks down in about a week. I assume the condenser is more prone to damage than the other components. If the system has pressure does checking the condenser with a bubble solution work very well?

Thanks
ou can buy a $500 unit specified to detect 1/10 of an ounce per year leak & still not find an evaporator leak, because the evap is so inaccessible that the refrigerant leak will disperse so much as to be undetectable before the sensor sees it. Eventually the UV dye from the evap leak will mix with the condensate and you see it there.
 
But, as I said, "You can buy a $500 unit specified to detect 1/10 of an ounce per year leak & still not find an evaporator leak, because the evap is so inaccessible that the refrigerant leak will disperse so much as to be undetectable before the sensor sees it. Eventually the UV dye from the evap leak will mix with the condensate and you see it there."

That is my experience with this $500 unit. If you can sniff a small leak in evap while still installed in duct work, you do better than I have been able to do.

http://products.inficon.com/en-us/n...Select?path=Products/pg_ServiceToolsforHVAC_R
 
Like others have said, no one answer to finding a ac leak. Some leak under high pressure, some low pressure, some when hot, some when cool. I though dye was the answer, found out it was not. Electronic leak detector has found a lot of leaks for me, missed a lot also. Some compressor seals will not hold a vacuum but still not leak refrigerant. . Others will hold vacuum and then leak refrigerant. Some hose will hold vacuum but leak pressure. Drive you crazy if you let it. Usually a leak you cannot pinpoint that leaks out quite rapidly is indeed the compressor. Have seen that many, many times.
 
If the leak is at the compressor, you can have the compressor resealed at a good AC parts supply place. Some of the suppliers do that as a sideline here.

Auto AC shops just wanted to put on a new compressor (several years ago) that would cost me $600. I checked around and found a place that resealed the compressor for $75.
 
If it's leaking down in a week, that should readily
show up as an oily spot, really oily like a liquid
drip. If you don't see it, check the condensate
drain, see if it's oily.
 
Thanks to all for the help. Actually I've got a couple different vehicles that need A/C work. One shows oily deposit at the compressor pulley the other looks pretty clean everywhere.
 
Jessie I had a 91 grand caravan. It had one leak
after another. Replaced evaporator, expansion
valve, then the steel lines going to the rear
evaporator had many pin hole leaks, then I got rid
of van. It became a money pit after 15 years and
150K.

I have seen so many AC, dehumidifier, refrigerator
and heat pump leaks, it's hard to say where you
will find them.

I've concluded that anything that has freon it it,
if it doesn't leak, just wait, it may leak
tomorrow. I sometimes think some leaks are caused
by the very thin, cheap copper and aluminum used.
Then sometimes, it's gasses like 410a that run at
such high pressures.

It's no wonder the HVAC people make a good living
with service calls. It reminds me of the old TV
repairman making service calls to replace vacuum
tubes.
 

You sniff at the drain are if it has a blower resister remove it for a good shot at the evap...

The TEK-Mate is some times to sensitive on a large leak its then I use the Yokogawa to nail the leak...
 

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