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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

cylinder head

Author  [Modern View]
68vert

05-30-2014 11:56:31
70.194.131.235



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Hi All,

I am in the process of restoring my 58 851 I am starting with a overhaul kit for the engine. My first challenge was making a sleeve puller got that done sleeves are out. When it comes time to put the new ones in I have read that it a good idea to get them freezer cold then tap them in with the puck I made for the puller I hope you all agree. The main question I have is about the valve guides that come in the overhaul kit should I bring the head and all the parts to a machine shop or is there a trick or a special tool that I do not have to replace the guides any input would be great.

Thanks

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Owen Aaland

05-31-2014 12:26:59
216.47.33.5



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 Re: cylinder head in reply to 68vert, 05-30-2014 11:56:31  
I have my own Sioux valve grinding equipment but I only use it for minor touch up work. A good machine shop shop with modern equipment can do a better job in an hour than I can do in half a day with what I have.



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dr sportster

05-31-2014 09:58:56
68.192.202.137



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 Re: cylinder head in reply to 68vert, 05-30-2014 11:56:31  
Another thing when you install the guides the holes will reduce even more than when measured before installation. You will then have to ream them to clearance for the valve stem diameters. If you go to a shop they will more likely hone them to size and they will cut the seats on a modern Serdi machine [ or Sunnen.] The way to find the size of the hole in the guides is with the pilots for the valve work. If you don't have a set of pilots you will have difficulty with a small snap gauge and mike. The pilot is reality. The seats widths must be cut to the specs in the service manual [ too wide they overheat ,too narrow they overheat] and the clearance between guide and valve stem must be correct [especially for the exhaust stems/ guides] Otherwise the stem will hang in the guide and then the pistom may strike the valve head bending the valve [overhead valve engine].The cause could be either too tight guide clearance or wrong seat width causing swollen overheated stems closing up clearance on the stem. Back to square one. Whatever money you pay a competent machinist is well spent unless you are equipped for the job and the price charged is fairly reasonable for the work.

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jimg.allentown

05-30-2014 14:44:19
98.115.105.174



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 Re: cylinder head in reply to 68vert, 05-30-2014 11:56:31  
Agree with welding man. To elaborate: when you replace the guides, the seats need to be trued up to the new guides. This requires a valve seat grinder or cutter and a correct sized pilot. Better to take it to a machine shop and have a nice true 3-angle valve job with the valves nicely fitted and seated.



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68vert

05-30-2014 16:15:50
70.194.163.135



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 Re: cylinder head in reply to jimg.allentown, 05-30-2014 14:44:19  
Thanks for the advice I'll take it to the shop



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welding man

05-30-2014 14:35:17
216.115.204.175



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 Re: cylinder head in reply to 68vert, 05-30-2014 11:56:31  
Personally, I press them out and in with a hydraulic press. Unless you've got the block in the kitchen or the freezer in the shop, I'd say chilling them is a waste of time. By the time you get from point A to B they will be room temperature.You will likely split a sleeve if you hammer them in. As far as the guides,if you don't have a way to grind the seats,installing the guides will not help. Take it to a machine shop and get it done right.

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