Marking steel for welding

Stan in Oly, WA · May 25, 2014

I know it's been asked before, but since I don't remember what was said it's the same as a new question for me. What makes clear and highly visible marks on steel for stick and MIG welding, and for torch cutting? I generally use soapstone because I've got a lot of it and it's dependable, and it can be sharpened to a fine line. It leaves a lot to be desired, though. I tried a silver Sharpie, but I was totally disappointed. I must have bought the wrong thing because I remember seeing something similar to that which seemed quite effective. What I got was considerably less visible than soapstone.

Stan

mjsnodgrass · May 25, 2014

try a blueprint pencil. works better on warm steel. expensive at welding stores, but office stores have them.

JBDyer · May 25, 2014

I use a silver pencil, can be sharpened to a point, my local hardware carries them, bout $2 a piece. Johnny

Billy NY · May 25, 2014

Metal tip/valve paint stick ? Not sure if thats rough with mill scale on steel, but in yellow its pretty visible, takes a little finesse to use these neatly, no runs, crisp definitive lines, basically a parts marker, probably n/g on hot steel, I used soapstone, having a few boxes of it.

I've seen a white marker of sorts, looks like soapstone, but a cleaner line, no small voids in the mark it leaves, solid white, not sure what that is.

mjsnodgrass · May 26, 2014

I was with a friend tonight and mentioned that I'd told someone about blueprint pencils. he looked at me like I was nuts. that was a shop term we used. you'd probably never find them with a description like that. they are known as grey welders pencils.

Pitalplace · May 26, 2014

Silver art pencil, sold where any art supplies are sold and cheap.

farmer boy · May 26, 2014

I use either soap stone or a silver sharpie. The sharpie is good for a while, but when it dries out, the line can get hard to see. Neither one is overly accurate though. Best to use a scribe and mark dashes over it with a soap stone or sharpie.

Pete Hall · May 26, 2014

I use a white out pen.I peronally use the Presto jumbo correction pen witch can be found at office supply store.
You have to be carefull and don't press to hard or you can destroy the little metal ball in the tip.
very handy for cutting,welding,plasma and even marking parts.

Roy Suomi · May 26, 2014

In my "failing years" , I use a silver pencil and after I'm happy with those results, I use a center punch on the lines so I can better see the line with cutting glasses on.. Those little "dots" are a lifesaver.. Works every time....

dr sportster · May 26, 2014

A Seabee taught me the line of punch marks method for curves and such. Now if it is a long piece of steel and the width is short ,I clamp a vise gip on my pencil line and then cut in a little bit with a hacksaw. For circles I score the steel with a hole saw. The more I weld and cut the more I can't see what I am doing lately.

greygoat · May 26, 2014

I use a "SILVER PENCIL", available at Office
Depot, or, Office Max !

Dick L · May 26, 2014

I clamp on pieces of bar stock or other pieces of what is laying around and or use magnets. I have not been able to see a scribe line or pencil line thru a hood for several years.

Like this!

Jason the Red · May 26, 2014

Valve action paint marker or soapstone.

Dr. Walt · May 27, 2014

"Thin Line Marker" - SILVER: Forney Part #70796 , & RED: Forney Part #70797 . Made by Forney Industries, Inc. and available at welding supply shops . There is also a product called "White Writer" (white grease pencil) that looks like a large White magic marker. Another thing that I have found that works good is a YELLOW Tire Crayon, available at just about any tire store or repair shop.

Doc

chrisinsoky · May 27, 2014

I use a scribe, i really sharp pencil lookin thing, that actually scratches the steel and makes a bright mark easy to see

Butch(OH) · May 27, 2014

Being as I am suffering the failing eyesight deal myself I have a drawer full of markers and pencils but never found anything better than soapstone for cutting. To make it more visible you must take the time to grind the area you intend to mark, the coarser the wheel the better. This helps a lot but it doesn't replace being able to see. We use the cold saws a LOT now both hand held and miter box type. When we have straight cuts that must be torched we have succumbed to straight edges clamped to the work. I am likely missing something here but why do you need marks for welding?

Ellis Kinney · May 27, 2014

If the appearance of the weld is critical and I don't want my weld to wander a little bit I usually clamp a straight piece of steel beside the weld. Also, sometimes I put a soap line on both sides of the weld. Ellis

Anonymous-0 · May 28, 2014

Are you thinking of Silver Streak? It's made for marking metal, is thin and doesn't have to be sharpened. I like soapstone but find if a make a line and then run the torch over it first, it stays on the plate better. Just today I saw some silver art pencils on the counter at work the sales manager apparently bought at a welding show.

Marking steel for welding

Stan in Oly, WA

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mjsnodgrass

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JBDyer

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Billy NY

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mjsnodgrass

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Pitalplace

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farmer boy

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Pete Hall

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Roy Suomi

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dr sportster

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greygoat

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Dick L

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Jason the Red

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Dr. Walt

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chrisinsoky

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Butch(OH)

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Ellis Kinney

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Anonymous-0

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