chain sharpening

Do any of you guys use the bench type electric chainsaw sharpeners? I'm paying $5-$10 per chain to get each one sharpened and Harbor Freight has a sharpener for $40. What do you think?
 
They aren't very accurate or rigid and don't have the 3rd axis the good ones have. OTOH, for fixing a rocked chain, they work fine. If you're having issues sharpening your chain, get one of these for your size chain, read the instructions and live happily ever after.

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/Products/HUSQVARNA/Files-and-Accessories/Filing-Guides-and-Kits/505243501/611846/s

http://www.baileysonline.com/Chainsaws/Files-Filing/Filing-Guides/Husqvarna-Combination-Swedish-Roller-Guide-for-325-Pitch-Chainsaw-Chain.axd
 
I bought an Oregon chain grinder(small Italian made)about ten years ago.I use it all the time.
When I get a hint of a dull chain I put it on the
grinder for touch up.Takes longer to dismount and mount the chain than to sharpen it.The chains
last longer since stretch is reduced by always
having sharp cutters.No trips out to carry the chains somewhere for sharpening.
Don"t know anything about the Chinese copies of
the Italian grinders.If you really use your chainsaws alot I would definitely recomend getting a bench mounted chain grinder.If you get a good one you"ll soon wonder why it took you so long.Luck,JAinVA
 
No experience with HF but I did buy a Chinese made reproduction of an Oregon sharpener from Northern Tool about 18 months ago when it was on sale.

One of my best decisions. It paid for itself within 6 months or so and I do not burn wood.

Dean
 

I have one of the cheap HF models. I only use it occasionally to get the cutters all the same length. It does a passable job but I do better using my Stihl file kit. It has an angle guide which helps me be more consistent. I'm still a rookie but can now feel the difference in the file when I get careless with the angle. The guide also rests on the chain so you can't file the gullet too deep and mess things up. Also rotate the file in the guide to spread the wear on the file so it lasts longer.

We have a lot of tree tops left by the loggers and they were dragged thru the dirt. Because of all the dirt, I have to sharpen the chain about every other fuel filling. A cheap stump vise is great for keeping the bar from moving on you.

Good luck.
 
The HF sharpener lacks one needed adjustment if you want to sharpen chisel chains. Northern Tool has one of the cheapest sharpeners around with all three needed adjustments. I have an Oregon at home that I got for $225 a few years ago. Nothern Tool has one made in Italy that is similar. I just got one to use at my place in Michigan. got it for $99 on sale. Now it's $129. Chisel chain requires a chain-vise that swivels 10 degree either way. The cheap sharpeners only have a fix 90 degree angle.
a154621.jpg
 
Well for a NORMAL chain i use the OLD fashioned File and about five min. on a 20 inch chain . Now if is like the one chain i bought for my one saw ah yea noway were you going to use a file on that one but ya did not have to sharpen it that often . That one did not care if Oh there was and old nail or oh gee there WAS that old fence growen into that tree or oh was that a sandstone i just cut in half .But when it did need dressed the old guy in the wheel chair that sold saws and small engines would have to change the wheel to dress this chain as it was that hard . I had that one chain on that old saw for ten years and it did a lot of cutting . I paid a lot of money for that 16 inch chain and it was worth every penny. As where to find another one i have no idea as the old guy has long since passed and nobody i have talked to knows anything about them chains like he had . He had one chain even better then what i had .
 
(quoted from post at 10:01:28 04/20/14) As where to find another one i have no idea as the old guy has long since passed and nobody i have talked to knows anything about them chains like he had . He had one chain even better then what i had .

Check with businesses that supply fire departments with rescue equipment.
 
I have the $129 one in JDemaris post from northern tool. Has seen quite a bit of use and works very well.
 
The one that I have (see post below) is the Northern Tool pictured above.

I bought mine on sale for $89.00 and free s
hhipping. It is clearly not a professional use unit but is more than adequate for my close friends and myself.

It has paid for itself about two times over in the 18 months that I have owned it and I do not burn wood.

Dean
 
I bought one back when it was on sale with a coupon for $25. Never seen it at that price again. I don't know what everyone else's issue with it is. I think it works great and have sharpened at least a half dozen chains so far without problems. More than paid for itself. No brainer to use.

Jim
 
Good morning Mick

I have had 1 for several years . I believe that mine is made by Oregon Chain .Have sharpened many a chain for other people no complaints yet .
Only use machine when chain is damaged by hitting something.
[email protected]


John in AZ.
 
(quoted from post at 10:01:28 04/20/14) Well for a NORMAL chain i use the OLD fashioned File and about five min. on a 20 inch chain . Now if is like the one chain i bought for my one saw ah yea noway were you going to use a file on that one but ya did not have to sharpen it that often . That one did not care if Oh there was and old nail or oh gee there WAS that old fence growen into that tree or oh was that a sandstone i just cut in half .But when it did need dressed the old guy in the wheel chair that sold saws and small engines would have to change the wheel to dress this chain as it was that hard . I had that one chain on that old saw for ten years and it did a lot of cutting . I paid a lot of money for that 16 inch chain and it was worth every penny. As where to find another one i have no idea as the old guy has long since passed and nobody i have talked to knows anything about them chains like he had . He had one chain even better then what i had .

Yep I use the Oregon file and attached guide. About 5 min, no removing chain and back in business.
 
I have a HF sharpener, you have to have some finesse to use it, but it's certainly worth the $29! If I was going to use one a lot I would probably buy a better one. I don't need to cut as much wood anymore as we spent a couple of months in AZ.
 
Tractor Vet and others

Sounds like you have a tungsten chain. We have a listing in a commercial catalogue here (Oz) but it doesn't give a brand.

There is also Oregon Multicut, supposed to "stay sharp up to 3 times normal" and less expensive.

We have a somewhat different use for chainsaws here. We're in a hell of a drought and stock fodder is the mulga tree (an Acacia). Hard, dirty wood, which you have to cut to get down to stock. And a never-ending job, as you have to keep ahead of the stock, but not too far ahead.

I'm using a locally available Chinese grinder which doesn't have the third axis, but the chain (.325 Micro Chisel or the Carlton equivalent) doesn't need it. A magic tool so far. Helps if you reverse the wheel every so often to keep the profile. (FYI those Italian grinders are in the $5 - 600 bracket here and 240v 50 cycle power limits internet shopping) We carry spare loops and grind at base.

Been a Husqvana camp for a long time, but the current run of "Plastivanas" don't seem to be doing so well (and the price of a 445 seems to have doubled in about 4 years), making them an expensive throw away..

So have had a run at a Chinese one, which looks like a copy of a 44 (45cc, .325 chain). Whole saw was less than the cost to me of the Oregon bar and chain that came on it, which will fit the current Husqvanas if it falls over. Not a bad saw so far, and bought as a known likely throw-away.
 
I have always sharpened by hand, there was a learning curve at first but now it is second nature. We burn about 20 standard cords a year and I also cut trees for our sawmill, so I use the saw pretty often but not all day every day. Your chain may last longer if you sharpen by hand because you don't take off as much metal each time.
Zach
 
I used a hand sharpener that clamped on the bar for years. It is made and sold by Granberg. Northern also sells them. It has angle settings and a adjustable stop so you won't take too much metal off. Once you get the hang of it, it doesn't take much longer than an elec. sharpener and you don't have to remove the chain. It will accept any size file for any pitch chain. They sell for about $30.00.
 
I haven't had a chain machine sharpened in many many years. Once you learn how to sharpen a chain by hand you won't want one done with a machine. I got tired of having to resharpen the chains after they sharpened them with a machine.
 
I purchased one of those HF sharpeners a few years back. Never could get it to cut the same on both sides of the chain - and I even retured and tried a different one. I have resorted to buying a good file guide, and guage to help with filing of the drags. Jury is still out on whether or not I will be able to save a few old chains I have laying around, but first sharpening seemed to have done better. My biggest issue is that I cut up a lot of old dead fallen stuff and end up getting into dirt, rock, etc, which significantely reduces the life of a chain. I usually buy a couple new chains a year, and just touch them up with a file when they seem to be losing the edge. Been a lot of discussion on chain sharpening (one was a discussion I started), and general feeling that it is best to learn how to hand sharpen. I have found that it takes about the same amount of time either way, and there is really no magic.
 
For giggles, I bought a HF sharpener.. Certainly isn't anything fancy or high tech.. I have to use a caliper to get the cutters the same length.. I run a file over the teeth to give them a good edge after straightening the angles.. On my old Oregon sharpener, I had to turn the thumb screw a third turn to make the cutters the same length when changing angles.. Wish I had never sold it...
 
Like several others I've got one of the ones from Northern Tool. If you look at one of them beside the Oregon brand grinder you can't hardly tell the difference in anything about them other than the color of some of the parts. Too, like the others mine was supposed to be like $129 but if you keep your eyes open for coupons, sales, etc you should be able to get one for around $100. I've sharpened chains for my saw, the neighbors saw, and others for quite a few years and it's been worth every penny spent to know the chain is right when your done with it. Not to mention when it hits the wood and goes through it like hot butter, the labor it saves makes it all worth while.
 
I have a Nielsen I bought for $75 back about 1968 when I was a McCulloch dealer. I wouldn't be without it. I have no idea how many chains that thing has sharpened over the years.
 
I have an HF chain sharpener. Not too impressed with it. I never could seem to get the right angle on the cutter tooth. Each cutter takes too long to set in place and clamp. Overall, I found it quicker and easier to use the hand file and guide. I gave up on the grinder. Too much of a PITA.
 
(quoted from post at 07:01:28 04/20/14) Well for a NORMAL chain i use the OLD fashioned File and about five min. on a 20 inch chain . Now if is like the one chain i bought for my one saw ah yea noway were you going to use a file on that one but ya did not have to sharpen it that often . That one did not care if Oh there was and old nail or oh gee there WAS that old fence growen into that tree or oh was that a sandstone i just cut in half .But when it did need dressed the old guy in the wheel chair that sold saws and small engines would have to change the wheel to dress this chain as it was that hard . I had that one chain on that old saw for ten years and it did a lot of cutting . I paid a lot of money for that 16 inch chain and it was worth every penny. As where to find another one i have no idea as the old guy has long since passed and nobody i have talked to knows anything about them chains like he had . He had one chain even better then what i had .




i think you are talking about is a carbon tip chain. you can find them online, but, be prepared and willing to forfeit you arm, leg, and first born.
a friend of nine got a HF and said it took too much product each time.
i use a round hand file that's attached to a guide with angle lines for guidance that are available at osh,or any place that sells chain saws, and a flat file. once you understand the logic of how it wants sharpened, it's very quick and easy.
 
Well the chain that i have on my saw now is a run of the mill premade out of the package off the shelf 3/8ths pitch and a plan old round file will cut it . I do not need any fancy guide to sharpen it . The OLD chain that i bought had to be made and it was a Tungsten Carbide and had to be dressed with a diamond wheel as the chippers were that hard and would cut thru anything with out dulling . While cutting with that chain it did not throw saw dust it threw huge chips . It would not only cross cut but also ripcut . It was probably not the chain for the home owner as it would really dig in and you had best be ready to cut when you went into a log or tree . Would i buy another one like it ?? you betya in a heart beat . Just finished up cutting down a sixty year old Crab apple that i planted sixty years ago and the trunk was around 20-22 inches and i had to make a cut on each side to get thru . It took two sharpings to get that tree made into wood burner sizes . Had that been the Carbide chain all that would have been needed was gas and oil.
 

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