New Crushed Rock Driveway

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
The driveway down to my shop is currently just a dirt path on sandy soil. In the summer and winter it is no problem, but spring & fall it's nearly impassable. As much as I like the unassuming approach I'm thinking I need to make it accessible year round.

What is the best way of putting in crushed rock? Site preparation? Rock size? Some sort of edging??

The building is in our side/back yard with mowed lawn all around.

Thanks,
Glenn F.
 
level it off about 6 inches down from finished grade, put in a geotextile, then put down gravel, crushed rock or whatever good stuff you have in your area,up to finished grade ,no more problems, mud etc.
 
Glenn do as David G said but keep the 2 inch rock about a foot narrower then you want your drive so when you put the regular gravel over the edges will not have the big rock coming through. Also keep the driveway higher then the lawn and make sure the water can drain away from the drive.

Bob
 
Sand is unstable because the sieve size of the aggregate is the same, no different sizes, its not composite, won't compact, per say, like a gravel with various sizes of aggregate. With that in mind and it sounds like a short run, fabric would definitely help. You will have to strip or excavate whats there to a depth that will allow the road base materials to be place on the fabric, under that the subsoil should be compacted, but if deep sand, undisturbed will have to do. In this area, I would use a gravel, that compacts 95% or better, moisture content plays a role in compaction, but any decent run of bank, or screened gravel would work. It needs to be compacted with a vibratory roller, but in this case, if the subsoil is deep sand, maybe without the vibrate on. It should be done in 1'-0' increments. The top layer, wear course would usually be a crusher run, with a composite mixture of stone dust, crushes stone, we call it per the NYS DOT specification Item #4, the largest aggregate I think is 3/4" or close to that, this will compact very well, and should pack in so that in the winter you won't have too much excess pushed off with the snow plow, one way to avoid that is put a slot in some pipe and attach that to the cutting edge of your plow, back blade or similar. If its a small area, you could mix in some portland cement, in the top course or before you compact, it will help bind the top layer, which is not a bad thing, I've done it with good results on small areas, used a generous amount, spread uniformly, shallow depth, so what it binds may just be a crust on top, for a low traffic, and no heavy loads, I thought it was worth it, but it is purely an option, not necessary, the crusher run with stone dust usually packs in nicely, soaking rains help etc.

You will want the road/short drive, crowned on top and you don't want it to retain water on either side.
 
I second what Dave said. #2 and top with #8. Where I live the white rock has to be trucked in a good 40 miles. Gravel, round multi colored rock is half price at local pit.

That said, recently I had 20 ton of #8 white rock hauled in for $17.50 a ton.

Locally at the pit, you pick it up #8 white rock is $15.50 a ton. #8 gravel is $8 a ton at pit.

I think there is nothing wrong with using gravel, pack it in the mud. The bigger the better until you get a good stable base.

Best advice is level up dirt and crown it before you bring in rock. No low spots for water to collect.
George
 
We have been using recycled concrete. It is about the same as 304 crushed stone or lime stone. If there are heavy equipment must drive over it we use a bed of #2's and 304 on top. But if lighter traffic just put down the reccyled 304's. If mud comes up through add more. the price is very reasonable.
 
I agree with Ohio88. Crushed concrete is about half the price here in Michigan and just as good. I'd make sure the topsoil and organic material is removed. (I've got about 1' of topsoil on my property). In one stretch, I put down 6" of larger crushed concrete first, don't know the exact size, most pieces about the size of a fist. Downside to this was that there was a lot of wire mesh stuck in the bigger pieces. I picked out about (4) 5 gallon buckets of pieces with mesh after I put in the d/w. I DID get one flat tire till I topped it with 6 inches #21 crushed concrete. Supplier quit making the larger stuff, so the next 500' of d/w got 12" of the # 21 and its holding up just as well. Key is to keep the water off the finished product. I've got 2 small areas that are a little low, collect water and are consequently "soft".
 
keep an eye on the road crews if you live in a rural area.
When they fix an old road, especially if they are widening it,
ask the truckers if you can have some loads of shoulder dig out debris.
good stuff... stone, asphalt pieces, hardens to a 'road' in a few years when you make trails out of it. good base material.
Around here they will be happy to dump it in your yard to save time trucking it.

Also, before you make your driveway/trail walk out there in a heavy rainfall to see where the water wants to run.
It's going to go the way it wants forever.
You can plan your culverts, drain pipe diversions, french drains, etc, better then.
 
Couple links for reading

http://www.nrs.fs.fed.us/fmg/nfmg/docs/mn/roads.pdf

http://www2.dnr.cornell.edu/ext/bmp/contents/during/dur_roads.htm
 
I put in and maintain 1/2 acre parking lot and about 800' of driveway. Here in Houston I can buy crushed concrete for $15/ton. I have my own tractor, dump trailer,road boss, and box blade. If money where no issue I'd pour it all in concrete. Keeping weeds and pot holes under control takes regular maintenance.

I have done extensive preparation as far as removing all grass grading dirt up and then about 4" of base.

I've also done no prep work and just put down about 6" of crushed concrete. This is cheaper and ongoing maintenance has been the same.
 

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