Craftsman Compressor Blows Breaker - Update

Ken Christopherson · Apr 2, 2014

Wired in a 30 amp breaker, 10/2 wire. Compressor kicks on fine and stays running, but had to shut it down after about 20-30 seconds, as I had a burnt electrical smell coming from the motor on the compressor.

The serial plate on the tank states that it was built in 2006 so the entire compressor can't be any older than that.

I did get it for free, as previously stated from my future father in law. He said the last time that he used it was last summer and it seemed to work ok. I'm not sure what kind of circuit he had it on, but I know it had a standard 3-prong plug on the end of the cord. Looks to me, though, that he may have installed his own plug on the compressor cord. Was pretty marred up. In order to allow for a 30 amp circuit, I had to install a larger receptacle (see pictures). Not really sure where to go from here.

And don't worry, everything has been disconnected since the burnt electrical smell was noticed from the compressor.

dr sportster · Apr 2, 2014

I don't really understand the term oilless in that size compressor. I thought oilless was a little airbrush compressor. Let it run and trace the smell .You have nothing to lose. Could be a normal inactive motor smell.It will draw what it takes the circuit is not going to burn up.

Ted in NE-OH · Apr 2, 2014

Maybe the starter switch is not kicking out when the motor is up to speed. Are you giving it 220 V when it is actually wired for 120 V.?

dr sportster · Apr 2, 2014

My spidey sense is tingling but it does have alot of dust on it. If you plug it back in repost the results. What oils the moving parts? Or not much moves but a diaphram ?

dr sportster · Apr 2, 2014

No he is showing the sinlge pole breaker in the pic. Heckuva cord though.

Aaron SEIA · Apr 2, 2014

Dad has one of those. Wired with a standard 15 amp 110v plug. Can you Google the compressor model/serial numbers and come up with what it should be. No clue why he has a 220v oven plug on something that should run on a 15 amp circuit.
AaronSEIA

Anonymous-0 · Apr 2, 2014

Again he is pointing at the breaker ,clearly 115/120 v.

charlie n · Apr 2, 2014

It has Teflon lined cylinders and doesn't need oil.That's why it's oiless.Direct drive off the motor and noisey too.Not a production machine but ok for a home owner.

buickanddeere · Apr 2, 2014

Have to be certain that the centrifugal start winding switch is opening by the time the motor has reached approx 75% or rated rpms.

dr sportster · Apr 2, 2014

Should by able to hear that correct?

Ken Christopherson · Apr 2, 2014

Ok, to clarify,

There was a standard 3-prong, 15 amp plug that was on the cord - but it looked like it was spliced on. It would tripe a 15 amp breaker about 1 second after it was turned on.

Installed a 20 amp breaker, 12/2 wiring, and 20 amp standard receptacle. Would run approximately 5 seconds and trip the breaker. (Keep in mind, all of these times the compressor was on it's own circuit - nothing else plugged in).

Installed a 30 amp breaker, 10/2 wire, and in order to install a 30 amp receptacle, I had to remove the standard 3-prong plug, and install the oven plug on the line.

I have plugged the compressor in twice to check it out. The first time it smoked and smelt burnt quite a bit, the second time not as bad. I can try a third right now - let me run downstairs.

(------------------------------------------------)

Ok. Well. I don't know how well that went, but I plugged it in, ran for about 20-30 seconds, it had built up to about 20 psi. Then it shut off, and some smoke came out of the motor covering. Now nothing. Won't turn back on. Unplugged it, plugged it back in, nothing. Breaker is not tripped. Knowing my luck, I probably fried something.

Anonymous-0 · Apr 2, 2014

Ken, I think one should go back to square one on this problem.

1. Check what the nameplate on the motor is telling you, as to voltage and full load amp draw and what voltage can be used. Often you are given the choice of 120 or 240 volts.

2. Check the motor junction box and see what voltage it is wired for, 120 or 240. You should be able to tell by the color or how the wire are spliced together as to what voltage they are wired for. Normally there is a diagram on the motor.

It is hard to tell from the picture but your plug from here looks like a 240 volt 30 map plug.

If you are still not sure better hire the job out and not "let the smoke out" any more.

dr sportster · Apr 2, 2014

I think he used a NEMA 250 v 6-30 because thats the cord he had . He wired it for 110.

Ken Christopherson · Apr 2, 2014

The cord on the compressor remained the same. The only thing I changed was to put a new plug on the end. Color wires in the cord: White, Black, Green.

Like I said earlier, it appeared as if someone had spliced on a standard three-prong to the cord, as it was hacked up pretty good near the plug.

I have yet to take the motor casing off to take a look inside.

bg/mo · Apr 2, 2014

sears has been making oil less air compressors for a long time. after reading this post and the other one , in my opinion the motor is bad. That is a small and reasonable priced air compressor , just replace it and be safe.

Russ from MN · Apr 2, 2014

Not much left to do except take the cover off the motor and check the starter switch, the points could be welded together. While you have the cover off you could blow the dust out of the windings, but you would need an air compressor to do that! That is why I have about 3 of them. I am afraid that this is just a common story of Craftsman and most other cheap tools nowadays, they run real fast, make a lot of noise, and then the smoke leaks out! My favorite air compressor is one I made out of a Chrysler air conditioner pump, runs quiet and I have been using it for 40 years!

Ken Macfarlane · Apr 2, 2014

I think you solved your problem. The motor was probably bad anyways. I frigged with a Craftsman tablesaw, new caps, new current sensing start switch etc etc, in the end same thing tripping breakers it had no business tripping and getting hot. Finally retested and the windings had a short that hadn't showed up cold, motor was pulling too much. Would have needed rewound. Into the scrap pile she went. My free saw cost me almost 40$ and 20 hours of chasing parts or info on the net and trying to make it run.

Ken Christopherson · Apr 2, 2014

I think that seems to be what I am dealing with here. I've pumped over 80 dollars into just wiring this thing, and have only gotten farther away from where I need to be. I'm thinking that the last time my future FIL used it, there was probably some problems that he is not telling me about (probably just wanted to see me get it out of his garage).

I'll pull the cover off for the heck of it and look underneath, but realistically, my knowledge of electronics has just been met. Ha ha ha.

retired farmer · Apr 2, 2014

That looks like it is one of those Sears oilless compressors. Just junk it. Boss bought two new ones years ago. Both lasted less than a year. Pump went out on the first one and the motor on the second one. Not worth fixing.

dr sportster · Apr 2, 2014

Buick is mad at me and he is not answering. I believe in cases I have been on you can hear that switch kick in and kick out as the motor slows. I am a high voltage splicer and not a motor expert.

dr sportster · Apr 2, 2014

Well you have a new 30 amp circuit in the garage for your next needs anyway.

ss55 · Apr 2, 2014

If your air tank is still solid, you might look on Craig's List or in the local traders for an inexpensive regular compressor (non-oiless?) with a rusted out tank. Mount the good pump and motor on your good tank?

It looks like you are making progress on your "A". How does it look so far?

Ken Christopherson · Apr 3, 2014

Yeah. I'll have to think of what to do with it. I really am not sure at this point, but I guess it doesn't hurt to keep it around. I don't have the time right now between the tractor, work (and extra training I'm working on for that), plus school. Also trying to keep the girlfriend happy and thankfully she is understanding of everything.

The A.. Well, it's coming along. I've got most all of the unstyled parts that I need I think. Now I'm working on repairs. The first reduction gear was completely shot, along with the outer bearing and transmission input shaft. I'll have to see the condition of the other bearings in the transmission. Block had to be replaced as I scraped off a chunk of mud on the bottom, and found a hole. One piston and rod (ended up getting a block and pair of pistons bored .045 as a set, with one good rod). It's coming slowly along. I'm hoping to have it at least running by Memorial day, but I'm not sure if that will happen. We will see what kind of time and money I have to throw at this thing.

John(OR) · Apr 3, 2014

Get the model # off of it and look it up should be
an owners manual on internet answer most questions.

Ken Macfarlane · Apr 3, 2014

A lot of Sears stuff used current switches or delay switches like refrigeration compressors use. The old ones click as they have a contactor inside, the new ones are quiet. Not that you can hear them over an oilless compressor.

Old motors it was easy, you could just listen as the motor was slowing down.

mick in il. · Apr 4, 2014

I don't understand, why do you have a 220 plug, cord, receptacle and then put them on a 110 breaker? As far as the smell, did you remove the cover and see that there's no wasp nest, mouse nest ...

Earl Gray · Apr 4, 2014

Like someone else said, that's a 120V 30A plug.

jpapier · Apr 6, 2014

Most likely your starter circuit is not engaging and the huge current draw is caused by trying to start a motor on the "run" windings. Mechanical centrifugal switch rusted (sitting unused for months)up and stuck in the run position from the last time it was used.

Craftsman Compressor Blows Breaker - Update

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