Update: Oil pan replacement Jeep grand cherokee.

Brad Buchanan · Apr 1, 2014

Hey folks.

This is an update on the oi pan change on my 2001 Jeep with a 4.7, 4wd auto.

Completed the job yesterday. I followed the procedure per Alldata and removed from the bottom.

I jacked the Jeep up about 24" and blocked the body up and let the front axle droop. The y pipe was removed along with the starter which I had the local starter guy rebuild.

The bolts on the y pipe were frozen so I just torched them off and as the nuts on the top are pretty much inaccessible I welded small pieces of sheet metal on the new nuts to aid assembly.

All in all a messy job and if I had it to do over it would have been quicker and easier to just pull the motor to change the pan.

Comments welcomed,

Brad

Sean Feeney · Apr 1, 2014

How many hours into the job?

I expect if that's the recommended way it would be the easiest? Pulling a 13 year old motor "Rusted bolts" can be a
bugger as well.

Bob · Apr 1, 2014

What would be needed to just R+R the starter?

I may have to done that, and you can't even SEE the darned thing!

glennster · Apr 1, 2014

good job brad!!! i got a stall set up here at the shop for ya the next time you stop by!! i think you would have regretted pulling the motor.

Rollie NE PA · Apr 1, 2014

I replaced a 4.7 in my 2000 Jeep limited. It is very labor intensive, I did it by myself.
The y pipe to manifold bolts are a pain as you found out.
I think you made the right decision to work from the bottom.

Brad Buchanan · Apr 1, 2014

Thanks Glenn.

I am all for the work as long as you have lots of coffee on hand but might not be by your way for a while.

Actually the most annoying thing about this job was those plugs for the O2 sensors....there are four of them on the y pipe.

I would probably think differently if I had a lift.

By the way, I am in the market for a 2 post 12,000 lb lift!!

Brad

Brad Buchanan · Apr 1, 2014

Hey Bob.

Actually not as bad as some that I have seen.

There is a rubber splash guard you need to remove. it is about 12 inches by 24 or so and just pulls off.

If you let the front axle hang down you can access the battery cable and solenoid wire and unhook them.

The starter has two bolts, one forward and one back. A ratcheting open end is your friend.

Starter comes out to the front.

Brad

Hobo,NC · Apr 1, 2014

If I needed a 12K I would skip it and go with a 15K... I did the 12K its OK but not a 15K... A 12K is a beefed up 9/10K A 15K is a totally different animal... I also had it extended 2ft as I did all my lifts it takes on all comers as far as height...

Brad Buchanan · Apr 1, 2014

Hey Sean.

Book pays 3.7hr if I remember right.

I had about twice that in however I had no lift and had to deal with some exhaust and other things while I was workin' on it.

Brad

Brad Buchanan · Apr 1, 2014

If you don't mind might I ask what brand do you
buy?

I have looked at most of the ones at local shops
and the welds on a couple of the imports were
scary!

If I ran birdcrap like that when I welded for a
living I would have had to grind it all off and
start over.

Brad

Bob · Apr 2, 2014

So you are saying it will be necessary to drop the axle to access the starter?

Bryan inIowa · Apr 2, 2014

I bought an Atlas 15,000 last ear. Love it ! I know its not a Mohawk or Rotary , but guy that installed it liked it . Think it was around $3800 Greg Smith Equipment

Brad Buchanan · Apr 2, 2014

Not at all.

Just jack the vehicle up by the frame/unibody so that the front suspension drops to its lowest level.

Update: Oil pan replacement Jeep grand cherokee.

Brad Buchanan

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Sean Feeney

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Bob

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glennster

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Rollie NE PA

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Brad Buchanan

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Brad Buchanan

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Hobo,NC

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Brad Buchanan

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Brad Buchanan

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Bob

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Bryan inIowa

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Brad Buchanan

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