split galvanized water pipe

tg in VA

Member
When the thaw came yesterday, one of my glavanized water lines split. It's a 3/8" piece about 6" long (the pipe, not the split) that comes off a "T" and connects to an "L". It's in the ceiling in the dog trot (breezeway) of an 80 year old house.

I'm not plumber and until I can get one next week, I've had to shut the water off.

Is there a temporary patch for galvanized pipe?
As it's in the middle of the system, I'm afraid if I cut it to screw the piece out of the T and EL, I won't be able to replace it as tightening it into the T would loosen it at the EL and vice versa.

Everything's pretty rigid where this pipe is so I don't know about trying two short pieces with one of those unions in the middle.

I had a split on a 1/2" piece before the "T" and cut it at the split and fixed it with a compression fitting. I don't think I've got the flexibility with this other piece to do the same plus the split is almost to the threads on one end. The split is about 1" long.

You guys always seem to come up with simple solutions to the most obscure problems...I'm hoping you have some ideas here to get me through until next week.

Thanks
 
Shark bite fittings. Put a shark bite to pipe thread adapter at each end, then a piece of plastic pipe to replace the split galvanized.

And then insulate to make sure it won't freeze again
 
Depends on the size of the split. If it is small, I have wrapped numerous layers of duct tape around the pipe for a temporary fix. Will work if not to big. Just make sure pipe is dry and clean before wrapping. I just replaced some copper pipe that had been patched with duct tape that had been there for at least 20 years and had not leaked since I owned the property. May or may not work!!!!
 
Why not cut the 6" nipple(in two places) then unscrew the butts. Screw a 3/8" pipe to 3/8 hose barb in each end, then use hose clamps to tighten a shot of 3/8 hose between them.
 
This is not the best way to do it but I have done it in the past to get by. Buy some automotive heater hose that is that size. Also a tube of silicone sealer. Slit the hose and apply the silicone to the cracked area of the pipe then wrap it with the heater hose and clamp it on with hose clamps. Let ti sit a couple hours. Then turn the water on and you should be good to go
 
check your box box store. home depot sells a saddle type emergency reapir clamp. it is a stainless steel band about 6 inches long that has a thick rubber gasket inside, and a bolt to draw it tight. they are sized to the pipe. you just slide it over the pipe, and tighten the bolt. it compresses the band and stops the leak.
 
You mentioned a compression coupling, but said the split is close to one end. Cut the bad piece, take out both ends, put in new short nipples with the compression coupler over them. Or take out the broken pipe, put in a PVC nipple which is cut in half with a no hub coupler on one of the ends, then glue and slide the no hub coupler over the joint.
 
To save having the same problem the next time the weather turns cold, have the plumber install a valve with a drain to the line ahead of where it is exposed to cold. That allows you to shut off the line and empty it for the winter.

Most plumbing stores have temorary patch kits that may work until the plumber can fix it. Take a picture of your split to help get the correct kit.
 
6" ain't much room to work with.
I would take that piece of pipe out and install 2 elbows with a hose barb in each one and a loop of black poly hose in between.
The poly can stand the freezing.
 
Every time I see your handle makes me think of a joke on how the old chief named the new baby's by the first thing he saw in the morning.
 
my aunt came home from hospital yesterday and was met with water running out of her front door. water line in attic had frozen and burst, this is in nw alabama. having to move out while repairs are made. why water line is in attic is unknown and why it has not froze before is unknown also.
 
(quoted from post at 11:39:56 02/01/14) You can replace it with steel if you choose to do so, just use two pieces of pipe with a union in the middle.

never heard of steel pipe for plumbing.
 
If you do get a clamp on type of patch take a vise grips and squeeze the pipe at the burst area to try to squeeze the crack shut as best you can. It won't seal the leak but it will return the pipe to a nearly round shape so the clamp on whatever you use device will have an easier time sealing.

I'd go with hose barbs and a short hose. (wink) Jim
 
Wrap a piece of bicycle tube around it and put a stainless pipe clamp (or two) on it. I've done it without even turning the water off.
 
He is afraid if he tries to unscrew the butts he will damage the rest of the line and that is why he wants to have a plumer do the actual repair. Would just like a tempory repair so he can have water till the plummer can get there.
 
For a quick fix cut the pipe where it's cracked using a hack saw. Then slide a hose over the pipe and use several hose clamps. Hal
 

Cut the split pipe in to. Screw the 2 short pieces out. get 2 3/8 to 1/2 copper male adapters and a short piece of 1/2 inch pipe and solder it up.
 
(quoted from post at 18:57:46 02/02/14) It seems to me that it [b:3092b4264b]would be pretty simple to buy 2 nipples and a union and fix it[/b:3092b4264b] correctly the first time instead of rigging something temporary. Only tools needed are 2 small pipe wrenches. Pipe dope also. Ellis
e thinks that is not gonna work cause there won't be room to get last half of the union in between to screw it on the nipple unless there is enough flex in the piping so one can pry the 2 lines apart
Just think about it :wink:
 
(quoted from post at 06:55:31 02/03/14) What do you figure galvanized pipe is made of?

Well around here galvanized pipe has always been cast iron as in the black pipe that is used for natural gas and sometimes air, that has been galvanized. I have seen steel TUBING which has various uses in machine and tool fabrication but never used as pipe.
 
Well, you got me there. I have plumbed with miles of steel pipe, black for gas and galvanized for water, and other than a fitting or elbow I have never seen cast iron pipe. Old sewer pipe was cast, but other than that, never heard of it.
 
Cut the split pipe and remove both pieces.

Install PEX fittings; brass will have larger flow area.

Buy a foot of PEX from local hardware store and two clamps.

Borrow or buy cheap PEX clamp tool.

Install new PEX and forget about it.

PEX will take freezing without bursting.

I"ve gone to PEX for virtually all repairs.

Makes life simpler.
 

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