dc stick welding

ejensen

Well-known Member
I use 6011 @7018vwith my dc stick welder Is it best to have the electrode connected to positive or negative?
 
I do not and will NEVER use 6011 rod to me that is a child's rod. Now the 7018 I use that and it can be used either way.. On my AC buzz box I use a lot of 7014 and a lot of 7018AC rod. I do tend to use higher heat then most but I was taught by a pipe line welder who said the higher heat can cover up a bad weld better then a good welder at low heat
 
Old,
I like your thoughts on 6011. Local welder who lives next to me thinks the same way you do about
6011
Pete uses 7018 a lot. I was cleaning my shop and disconnected the leads to my dc welder. A good one.200 amp 60% duty cycle. I think I had the electrode plugged into the positive side if the welder.
I've had a couple lessons from Pete Welty. I think he is on the web as he is considered an artist with metal
 
On DC you can go either way depending on what your doing. Reverse polarity seems to get better penetration the straight on most stuff. I use my Lincoln buzz box more then I do my DC machine but then the buzz box is a flip of the switch and the DC machine is a pull start 2 cylinder engine that does not pull over very easy
 
By the way back in the late 80s I took some college courses. One instructor wanted every body to have a name tag on there desk. At the time I worked at Tracker Marine as a maintenance man. So I welded up a name tag. I took an aluminum piece and then welded my name on it in tig. When I quit the class due to job and class problem he asked if he could keep that name tag and I told him yes since I had no need for it and could make more
 
Sounds like we have similar welders.My AC welder is a Lincoln buzzbox 225 amp. A good welder
I also have a pull start 2 cyl. Oman dc welder. Noisey thing and not easy to get started
Don't use it anymore.Bought a compact light DC offshore model.
 
6011 is designed for AC or DC+. It was originally designed as a similar rod to 6010 that would work on an AC machine. 6010 is a DC+ only rod. 7018 should be run on DC+ as well. 7018 is designed as an AC/DC rod but they also make special AC 7018 that are easier to use on AC. 6010/6011 are good rods to have around. 6013 are the ones you can do without. 6011 have deep penetration and are good for dirty, rusty or painted steel. They can also be used as the first pass to get the deepest penetration and covered with something like 7018. I would keep both 6010/6011 and 7018 rods around to cover most welding I'd ever do.
 
Stick welding ,
Great information. I've found that 7018 is more user friendly on my dc welder than my ac welder.
 
Old , you say you do most of your welding with AC ? I do most of my welding with old Monkey Wards AC/DC machine connected to DC . It's been a great little machine that I bought back in the late 60s . I had no shop/garage until the later 70s so I kept my accet/oxy set & welder in the basement . So of course I did my welding under Gods ceiling . I don't think myself as a welder , but when I weld something together , it stays together . I learbed that during my welding how angle grinder is classed as a hobbiests best friend . An old buddy used to always say I sure could produce lots of grapes . Thru years of harvesting grapes , I have slowly gotten better & grapes don't appear much anymore .I use a lot of 6011 but mostly 7018 DC rods . I used to even use 7018 7/64 DC rods for welding tin for autobody repairs ; but then that size became non existant .I had also bought a nice Miller 110 Cricket XL back in the 80s which I've learned to enjoy using for welding tin .All my trades have been what's called : Hands-On experience . God bless & Merry CHRISTmas to all . Ken
 
Yep I do most of my welding with an AC machine but then that is what a Lincoln buzz box is. The DC machine I have burns a gal and hour and is a pull start machine so hard to start and in the winter impossible to start unless your built like the hulk which I am not
 
On the 7018 look for a rod marked 7018AC and while still la bit hard to start starts easier then the old 7018 rod. One trick to start the 7018 is if you look at the end of a rod you have already used you will see the flux is sticking out past the metal of that rod so to start you have to hit the rod and knock that off or use your finger and pop it off to expose the metal
 
To the OP: 6011 is actually an AC rod but it will burn quite well on DC electrode + as well. 6011 is far from a child's rod. It is the AC cousin to DC only 6010 rod. You need 6010 for code work (or 6011 for non code work) is a must have rod for pipe. Course hacks like me use its attributes for old farm equipment that is dirty rusty etc. that can not be cleaned properly- and for its max penetration qualities. It is sometimes necessary to root pass with 6011 and then cap it with 7014 or 7018AC for backyard work.

6010 or 6011 is usually the most difficult rod for a newbie to run. I struggle with it sometimes.

I would call 6013 child's rod, but its limited penetration qualities still has its uses especially if you do not have a wire feeder. Some 5/64" 6013 is not too bad to use on thin sheet metal if no wire feeder available. I do like how 6013 is easy to shape with handheld power tools if doing parts build up. I do not like how 6013 can be prone to wormholing.

7014 is even more so child's play and almost welds all by itself
and many people call it idiot rod for that very reason. I like 7014 real well and 7014 might be the one and only rod that actually burns better on AC as compared to DC.

7018: I would skip unless you have a real nice welder.

7018AC: Will typically burn better on any of the home owner class of buzzboxes - almost mandatory on an AC only buzzbox but likely to run better as well on DC on an AC/DC buzzbox type machine (brands make a difference on this rod too) (and they should be stored in a rod oven).

Forgot to say that you should likely need less amps on your welder with 6011 than 7018 for same rod diameter size so you likely running way hot.
 
I find this extremely interesting. I have a very good friend that has welded all his life. Just turned 70. He was a mill wright, fabricator, and general all around local blacksmith. Only man I know that wasn't afraid to weld up the pan on an antique D-4. Long story short, he uses 6011 for nearly everything he does. He does use some special rods for cast, and welds aluminum with both an AC welder and a gas welder. He HATES wire welders. Says they are the downfall of being able to weld. Uses a DC welder on a very limited basis. When he was able, I would have put him up against anyone in a welding contest. Now days he has skin cancer so bad, he can't leave his house.
 
If I could have only one rod then I would likely pick 1/8" 6011 too even though I am far from proficient with it. The other rods simply will not do what 6011 can be made to do in the proper hands. It may not always be the prettiest weld but it can be functional.

Most pro's will tell you if they could have only one rod then they would choose 6010 (likely Lincoln 5P+).

Fortunately for me, I do not limit myself to just one rod as it can help overcome my shortcomings. That said, I do not stock many.

[u:cbccbae923]My standard backyard hack stock[/u:cbccbae923]
1/8 6011 (Hobart 335A)
3/32 6011 (Hobart 335A) (only sometimes do I keep this)
3/32 6013 (only sometimes do I keep this)
5/64 6013 (works surprising well on thin sheet if no wire feeder)
1/8 7014
3/32 7014
1/16 7014 (I hate all 1/16" diameter rods but ease of 7014 makes it tolerable - again beneficial on thin sheet if no wire feeder)
 
you guys all talk about welding,would anybody out their be interested in a self contained fresh air weld helmet setup. i no longer own welder, i lived behind one for years. now hardly breathe don't wish it on anyone but you all will i bet now notice it soon as you stop your weld project.happy ho ho
 
Tom ,
Thank you for the information. I bought an ever last welder last year. Not an expensive welder
200 amp dc 60% duty cycle. It has a very steady arc and is compact@ light
 
(quoted from post at 18:52:54 12/24/13) For the construction jobs I've worked on it is mostly 6010 and 7018. Root pass 6010, and most of the time 3/32, 7018. Always using what the engineers and code call for. I have NEVER had anyone ask/tell me to use 6011. Ellis

You are correct. However on those job sites you usually have a fire breathing dragon of a welder (often engine drive) costing several thousands of dollars that also outputs DC output.

Many people at home have a very economical buzzbox that outputs AC only that costs less than $300 or so new or about $100 bucks used. Hence you will need to use 6011 for the root pass as 6011 is the AC cousin to 6010. 6011 is only other rod that will keyhole weld like 6010. Most properties are very similar and 6011 is even superior to 6010 in some cases in strength and ductility but 6010 is always code spec'd.

Even if you lucky enough to have an AC/DC buzzbox with DC out; the output on DC on that cheapo welder will not be like that fire breathing engine drive welder or a true industrial machine. Even some of the expensive Miller inverters will not run 6010. Have to use 6011 on them.

There is a reason that all the hardware stores, farm stores, Lumbar yards always stock 6011, 6013, and 7018AC (and the better stores also stock 7014 too). Any of these rods will burn on almost any welder out there. From the cheapo type to the most expensive. Anybody doing code work though is going to local welding supply and buying their rods in a 50 lbs tins - not the 5lbs or so that us backyard hacks buy at a time at the local hardware store and the pros are not using a little buzzbox welder either to do code work.
 
(quoted from post at 19:43:33 12/24/13) Tom ,
Thank you for the information. I bought an ever last welder last year. Not an expensive welder
200 amp dc 60% duty cycle. It has a very steady arc and is compact@ light

Some of those Everlast welders will run 6010 decently if they have the special ports (so I hear). That said, you can only buy 6010 at your LWS (and mail order) and usually in rather big box quantities at that. So 6010 just not really all that practical for an occasional welder that only welds for home projects. 6011 usually ends up being the choice as it performs similarly and is available anywhere.

No if you practicing to be a pro then that is another story...
 
Yes , in that case of hard starting , I can undestand why you have settled with AC . Did you ever try finding a DC welder that someone is selling cheap ? I've seen some nice ones on Craigs List . If (and I Pray it never does) mine would bite the dust , I think I'd do most anything to buy another one . I once worked plowing a widow ladies driveway & she showed me her deceased hubbies huge commercial AC Lincoln welder very cheap . But being only AC , I turned it down . Maybe Santa will bless you with a small DC machine . Merry CHRISTmas to you Old . God bles, Ken
 
Is it the 110 ? I once lent mine along with the proper gas for aluminum & roll of aluminum wire . He had a Ford Mustang a guy was restoring to do repairs on . My friend promised to replace the wire & gas when finished . Well a hard lesson was had by me .My Grandson has screwed me after using my mig in my shop/garage . I've had it with trusting someones word , so never again . I worked hard to have what I have , so why let someone else cost me extra expense . Do you know Miller quit making this machine after 1 yrs production ? It was then replaced with the 130 .I hope you have enjoyed yours as much as I have ? God bless , Ken
 
Over the years I have messed with a lot of Mig and Tig welding plus the AC buzz box and the portable DC one. I have a flux core mig unit right now but do not use it much. So far really never have needed a DC welder but if one did come up cheap enough I might buy it
 
I would agree with rankrank1 on welding rods. Aboard ship back in 65, 6011 was the rod used 95% of the time. Best rod there is for poor fit, dirty metal. all position.

We had no children aboard ship. 6011 takes a little getting used to, to be able to light it up and get an arc going.
 
rankrank1,
I have a couple welders. An old rope start dc miller which has both ac @dc. I like my Lincoln 225 lincoln ac buzzbox 20% duty cycle My favorite stick welder is a 200 amp 60% duty cycle dc everlast wrlder

The rope start miller is noisey and not the easiest to start. Its covered up with a tarp and hadn't been run in a year. I use 6011 and 7018 rod
 
JOB ,
Thanks I feel better now. Around where I grew up 6011 was the rod used to repair farm eq. that most of the time was rusty. had been welded before
and was poor fit
 
Funny I was taught welding by a hull teck on the JFK and he sure as heck did not use 6011. They use almost always 7018
 
The JFK sounds like a floating city on the sea with an airport. I was on the Charles R. Ware and the William V. Pratt both tin cans. Different strokes for different folks. A lot of times 7018 is not practical. Neither ship had a rod oven either.
 
Him & I would get along good. I have 2 sons welding but I still outdo them with the stick & 6011. I am 71 & been at it since high school. Only time I used wire feed was to build up crankshafts before grinding. I weld 16 ga with 1/8 6011 at 80 to 90 amps. Kids can't see how I do it without burning it full of holes. I don't know how much longer as my eyes are getting weaker. May have to start wearing glasses.
 
Rod oven never used one and have never had any problem with the 7018 I use. But of course it is easy to make the rod heat it self up and work just fine
 
I am by no means a professional welder, strictly a hobbyist, and to me the 6011 does have it's uses. Primarily for lighter thinner metals, and for tacking pieces together before the final weld. I have also learned by accident that if I do just a short bead with the 6011 to get the metal hot, switch to the 7018 it is much easier to start.

On a second note, my welder is an old Lincoln tombstone that I have converted to full DC by using a set of 600 amp bridge diode rectifiers out of a junked phone company battery charger. I have been told that if I add a capacitor to the output it will make it easier to strike an arc, but cannot find what size capacitor or where to get one, can anyone help?
 
Hi Rich,

I'm sure you're not saying that just because the improperly stored 7018 you've used has never given you problems in the applications you've used it in, there's no reason for anybody to use it properly, ever. You can also drive on unlighted roads at night with your headlights off, not wash or clean cuts and wounds, or eat raw pork. Those things also work fine---until they don't.

Lincoln Electric states clearly that 7018 rod that has been exposed to high humidity or gotten wet can be reheated once, at 600-700 degrees F. for one hour. They state that longer than one hour at lower than 600 degrees will not do the job. I've heard of many ways to reheat 7018 at home or at the jobsite, but none of them could possibly be the equivalent of a 600 degree oven for an hour.

If someone isn't interested in getting the high quality welds that properly used 7018 is capable of, they might as well use 7014. It's also a 70K PSI rod, and it's a lot easier to use, even if it isn't a low hydrogen rod, and even if it isn't intended for dynamic loads.

Stan
 
John,
I have to say what you did to convert your ac Lincoln to dc is amazing.I bought a rope start
liquid AC welder 45 years ago. It was old when I got it. An old miller ac/school welder fell off a truck. Oman 2 cyl. was smashed Person gave me the unit and I attached it to my onan. Bolt pattern the same. I had always wanted a dc welder.Still have it but bought an ever last 200 amp dc. 60% duty cycle
 
I store my rods be it 7018 0r 7014 in my shop so yep humid in the shop at times. Never yet had any problems with bad welds doing it the way I do but if wet I just make sure I stick the rod for a moment or 2 and that heats it up and seems to work just fine.
 

Just to confound everyone.
I weld almost exclusively with 6013 rods on AC welders.
No problems with weld failure after about 20 years of doing it this way.
 
Yes, if you are after AC7018, spend the few extra bucks on the American-made stuff. I picked up a box for a project once, and the lady at the Airgas counter said to get the other one, the Mexicans haven't figured out good AC rod yet. Both boxes were the same brand.
 
IH2444,
A friend of mine who worked in a pre fan metsl
shop told me he used 6013 all the time
 

I have even welded cast iron exhaust manifolds with 6013.
Not real pretty and quite tedious but worked fine and never fell apart.
 
ejensen

First time I've actually seen "fell off truck" used this way.

Around here there are three forms of arrival

FOR freight on rail

FOB freight on boat

FOT Fell off truck (without damage - or cost)
 
Too bad they ran Lanse and Puddles off. They could have done some tests to compare 7018 out of the rod oven, dry 7018 at room temp and 7018 that had gotten wet and dried off. As long as it's dry 7018 is still going to be the strongest compared to the other basic rods.
 
I do try to store my rod in plastic boxes they come in and keep them as dry as I can. Sure wish I could afford the welders I would like to have. Sure would be nice to have a mig with Argon gas and a nice Tig set up
 
Dave,

Actually, Puddles did a break test that included 7018 which had been kept in a rod oven, which he called "hot", and 7018 which had been in an open container in his shop for a long time, never in a rod oven, which he called "cold". I've copied and pasted it here from the folder I keep of interesting welding related topics from this forum. It was in response to something I had asked him, but I can't remember what it was.

Author: Puddles
11-30-2012 10:06:04
24.113.77.208

Stan I'm sure you realize this is in no way a very scientific test! But in a small way it does show the impact quality of each rod / wire.

6013 = 3-blows

6011 = 8-blows

7014 = 10-blows

6010 5P-Plus = 10-blows

7018 (cold) = 18-blows

7018 (hot) = 23- blows

L-56 Mig wire = 29-blows
 
One thing I have learned that works well for storing rods, especially since I am only an occasional welder in an unheated shop. I have an old ice chest that I cut a hole in to run an electric cord and use one of the old style nightlights that uses the old C7 type bulbs (like the old Christmas lights). Even in the coldest weather it keeps the rods around 80 to 100 degrees and nice and dry. I know many places that have a small refrigerator with a light bulb in them, but I do not need that much room, nor have extra space to put it.
 
The problem with that test is it doesn't show which rod is strong enough to do the job. The test shows what anyone who has done any welding at all or took the time to look up on line already knows. What it doesn't show is a test that resembles anything in real life. I have never seen any manufacturer weld 2 pieces of steel in a T shape on one side only, knowing that that piece would then be subjected to stress from the back side, much less hammer blows. A realistic and useful test would have been to weld the T on both sides as would be done in real life then try to break the welds by bending the metal to see if the welds failed. That would tell you which rod was adequate for the job. Don't forget that even the hated 6013 rod is 60,000lb strength and most of the steel that people on this forum are using is in the 40-50,000lb range. And Puddles and Lanse did not get run off, they left because they could not be the know everything people they wanted to be so they took their balls and went home. Noone knows everything about any subject. Puddles was very knowledgeable about welding, but was at best average when it came to making repairs and knew very little about trailer building which is where he took exception to me having more knowledge than him. It's too bad too because all he had to do was let the others be the experts at what they were good at and he could be the expert at what he was good at, sadly that wasn't enough for him.
 
I never claimed to be a better man, it was puddles who thought he was better in all ways. As I've said many times, too bad he couldn't be happy with being an expert at what he was an expert at and let the rest of us be experts at what we are experts at. Your comment is a perfect example of how you and others are just as responsible for his leaving as he is or I am or anyone else. You create an environment where he is such a star that no one can have an alternative opinion because it gets swatted down hard and fast. You brought up the test, I just pointed out it was flawed so the unknowing won't use it and make a mistake. If that is not allowed then this truly is a useless forum.
 

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