You are correct. However on those job sites you usually have a fire breathing dragon of a welder (often engine drive) costing several thousands of dollars that also outputs DC output.
Many people at home have a very economical buzzbox that outputs AC only that costs less than $300 or so new or about $100 bucks used. Hence you will need to use 6011 for the root pass as 6011 is the AC cousin to 6010. 6011 is only other rod that will keyhole weld like 6010. Most properties are very similar and 6011 is even superior to 6010 in some cases in strength and ductility but 6010 is always code spec'd.
Even if you lucky enough to have an AC/DC buzzbox with DC out; the output on DC on that cheapo welder will not be like that fire breathing engine drive welder or a true industrial machine. Even some of the expensive Miller inverters will not run 6010. Have to use 6011 on them.
There is a reason that all the hardware stores, farm stores, Lumbar yards always stock 6011, 6013, and 7018AC (and the better stores also stock 7014 too). Any of these rods will burn on almost any welder out there. From the cheapo type to the most expensive. Anybody doing code work though is going to local welding supply and buying their rods in a 50 lbs tins - not the 5lbs or so that us backyard hacks buy at a time at the local hardware store and the pros are not using a little buzzbox welder either to do code work.
Re: dc stick welding in reply to rankrank1, 12-24-2013 11:28:03
rankrank1, I have a couple welders. An old rope start dc miller which has both ac @dc. I like my Lincoln 225 lincoln ac buzzbox 20% duty cycle My favorite stick welder is a 200 amp 60% duty cycle dc everlast wrlder
The rope start miller is noisey and not the easiest to start. Its covered up with a tarp and hadn't been run in a year. I use 6011 and 7018 rod
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