I run the yellow Stihl chain, the green chain is not as aggressive, I have yet to try skip or semi skip, I've split some rough square blocks of elm on the splitter, for hardwood cribbing, which is always useful and to remember something of these elm trees that succumbed to dutch elm disease. Dealer has to order those, less cutters= less hp, but I intend just to do some ripping, then will use the power hand plane to true em up. Yellow does cut nice, just set that dog, and it pulls in nicely, you can tell when they start to dull, I touch them up and or sharpen on my bench/bar file guide, with the occasional visit to the saw shop for a $8 dollar sharpen, soon as one starts to not cut straight, makes all the difference that and cleaning the air filter, mine has the original one on it still, time for a new and a spare ! Decent size saw, its getting a 25" bar after I do the modification, next saw might be bigger, professional grade, for felling I really need that 25" bar, most trees are in that diameter, real big ones, just work from both sides in the face cut, but most are just beyond the 20" bar. Dealer that I spoke to about the canned fuel, did not think a heck of a lot about the red/orange handle and or white handle stihl's, he said following the care you give yours, fussy about fuel and making sure the mix is accurate each time, and routine maintenance, they'll last a good long time, I don't run the heck out of mine on RPM's and it hot sweltering summer weather so after 11 years the 390 was worth what I paid for it, my friend has the MS 360 with a 25" bar, nice firewood and general purpose saw. I recentely aquired a fixer upper, well it does run, 015R, should make a nice limbing saw, can't go wrong for $30 and it runs.
With the chains its just dangerous and foolish not to run a sharp chain, have spares to change out, last one I had started cutting funny, even after a sharpen, makes it so much harder on the saw, and when felling hardwood trees, you just don't want a chain doing that, it will bind, cut will be off, could run rough which is more stress on it/saw, hate to snap one of these at high rpm, so much better to switch it out.
With the chisel, I believe those require or there is a more to sharpening those, I can imagine full chisel being really nice, but when it comes time to sharpen, not sure I am set up for those, if I recall correct, there are quite a few chains in the catalog, yellow is pretty good, you could take the rakers down more, but they have to be done evenly, lot to this chainsaw business LOL, but I enjoy a good part of it still so I like the discussions on it here, learning new and better ways to use these etc.
This post was edited by Billy NY at 12:44:32 12/17/13.