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Tool Talk Discussion Forum

Re: Wire Size for Kewanee Elevator Motor

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George Marsh

11-27-2013 05:07:47

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This is just for my understanding. If a 5 hp motor is only doing 2 hp of work will it use the full amps, 26 amps?

If my 225 amp lincoln welder is only set on 75 amps will the amp draw on 75 be the same as on 225?

If your answer is no to both questions, shouldn't the person asking the questions measure the current while the elevator is under full load? That may be hard to do unless he has the smaller wire to run a test.

Have a great day and don't eat too much turkey.

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11-27-2013 07:15:21

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 Re: Wire Size for Kewanee Elevator Motor in reply to George Marsh, 11-27-2013 05:07:47  
Line current on an AC induction motor is not linear with shaft HP. PF maybe a lousy 0.4 at 2HP but improve to 0.8PF with the motor at full rated load. Modern starter plugs are interlocked to prevent plugging in or inplugging while the receptacle is energized.

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John T

11-27-2013 05:34:08

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 Re: Wire Size for Kewanee Elevator Motor in reply to George Marsh, 11-27-2013 05:07:47  
Mornin George,

Hey, you're a good hand on electrical stuff I bet you ALREADY know this. Sure, as you increase the load on a motor the amperage increases and likewise if you're welding at low amperage she's not pulling as many amps on the welders input.

Without looking back at his post or in general the Full Load Amps (FLA) as best I recall, lol its been a while remember, is the number I used when I designed a motor branch circuit. If I designed for FULL LOAD figures, that should have taken care of it I figure.

Have a Happy Thanksgiving George

John T

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Dusty MI

11-27-2013 05:29:39

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 Re: Wire Size for Kewanee Elevator Motor in reply to George Marsh, 11-27-2013 05:07:47  
I'm not John T.

George, you make an interresting point. The National Electrict Code charts are designed to protect the wiring and motor. There would be nothing wrong with going smaller to do what you are talking about. But an easier way would be to just put a zero speed switch on it to stop it if it droped below a set speed.

I have a feeling that that large box on the side of the motor is NOT a motor starter but just holds the captors and motor leads.
Waiting to see what John T has to say.


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John T

11-27-2013 05:43:14

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 Re: Wire Size for Kewanee Elevator Motor in reply to Dusty MI, 11-27-2013 05:29:39  
And here I was waiting to see what the good Dusty Man had to say lol. As you know I'm rusty as an old nail on this having retired in 1991 and rely on you more recent hands on "real electricians" to help me out which yall do and I appreciate it.

I agree its prob NOT a starter but a capacitor or wiring box, that's why I asked if there were any BUTTONS on it???????

QUESTION FOR YA ELECTRICIAN: Those typical two Push Button mechanical type Start/Stop boxes you might see say on the wall next to the motor, did those serve as the Starter with Thermal Overload PLUS the Disconnect method I.E. kind of like a Combination Starter orrrrrrrrr were they the Starter ONLY????????????? and a separate disconnect (safety switch) was ALSO required????

Talk to me my friend and Happy Thanksgiving

John T (like to see you in Florida again)

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Dusty MI

11-27-2013 06:37:20

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 Re: Wire Size for Kewanee Elevator Motor in reply to John T, 11-27-2013 05:43:14  
John, I retired 10 years after you, and that was more that 10 years ago, so I'm becoming rusty also.

Those mechanical starters were mostly just a starter and thermal overload. Some may have had a disconnect on them. Maybe some had a lock out on the start button.

On those motors with the large box on them.

They sure were nice to hook up because had so much room to put the wires.
All that I worked on were totally enclosed air over. And that large box had a nice gasket on the cover. And some were aluminum frame.

I soon learned to NEVER install them where that box would be on top. Especially if they were to be used in cold weather. When the motor is running the motor warms up, then when turned off they cool off and draw cold damp air in, then moisture turns to water and runs into the motor, which soon ruins the motor.

So it's best to set the motor so the box is on the side of the motor, and drill a hole or 2 so that condensate can drain out.

John, I don't know if I'll make the Fly Wheelers. Let you know latter.


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