bfullmer

Member
Just got a south bend lathe and never used one ,I tried to turn a piece of pipe but it came out ruff life a corn cobb, I used a slow feed,what am I doing wrong??? I found a parts book on line but I could use an operating manual , are they around?? It is a cl 10,, Bob
 
Look up Diamond tool holder. It has nothing to do with diamonds but is a tool holder that cuts from the end of the tool . It comes with a grinding jig and instructions . You can cut threads with it . something about being on the end makes it cut very nicely. Just google diamnod tool holder and you will see pics of it. You tool must be dead center which you can do by runing it gently against the thread gauge. [small v notched thread checker]. If the thread gauge is pushed at a 90 degree to the round workpiece the tool bit is centered. Lindsay books has a South Bend book unfortunatly they have closed but eBay will find you one [maybe reprint] fairly easily.The grinding of the tool bit is very important so the diamond tool holder is easy as the jig holds it to grind. The rest on the grinder must be center of the wheel .As I said it comes with complete instructions and will make a great cut. This may not be your total problem but it is a nice set-up. It takes a 1/4 inch square bit. You also may have a piece of iron pipe which has different considerations than steel. Youtube is your friend too. Youtube search lathe... south bend etc. You tube can show how to grind standard tool bits.If you have alot of slack it will cut poorly and you will have to gib down the slldes tighter . Better to fight a hard turning handle and make a good part. This site will have some machinists that will give good advice. Be careful and read the safety rules first
Have fun .
 
Should read if the thread checker is at a 90 deg to the lathe bed or ways.If it cocks in at the bottom or top you are not centered. The workpiece should not pull the tool down . Then tighten gibs screws and try to move it inward to the tool holder.You'll get more info as this post is read by others.
 
Suggest you go on line, and read about basic machining. You need a sharp cutter (and to know how to sharpen it), on, or a little below center (can be determined, by putting a piece of feeler gauge stock, between the cutter and the work, if the gauge points toward you at the top, you are under center, if it is level, you are at center, if it points away, you are over center). These are just suggestions, there are lots of other things to know, too, like removing the chuck key from the chuck, so it doesn't chuck it at you :^)
 
There is a Youtube vid called Diamond Tool Holder and many vids on the manufacturers website called Eccentric Engineering. There are now many sizes for large and small lathes and the price has gone way up. Despite the price increase I think the diamond tool holder is well worth it. I also did not think until I watched the Youtube vid that a round bit can be held if you are not cutting up to a shoulder . The guy in the video gets some nice finishes from it. The thing with this is it will take some practice time to grind the tools the conventional way to make good cut . This will eliminate that process from the ease of grinding in the jig it comes with. Old machine shop teachers are cringing that people won't learn the right way but the Diamond tool holder is a nice tool in the lathe tooling arsenal.
You don't really need this right now but once you start to make serious parts it makes great cuts.
 
eBay item number 32115413384 HOW TO RUN A LATHE by SOUTH BEND . 8.95 plus 2 something shipping. Okay I'm shutting up now.
 
like said above dull tool to fast of feed...also did you check the table? see if there is movement from wear...? most people use them close to chuck so try moving it up down side to side close, then again far out from chuck probly really tight out there......? is it bushing or ball barring shafts? bushing over time wear also....check everything. is it brand new? or just new to you?
just throwing ideas out to you what other stuff that could be throwing it off.

kelly
 
What everyone else said is correct. "How to run a lathe"...book from South Bend, is excellent- circa 1930s....everything still applies today. I have a 1910 13 inch x72 South Bend (manual gears) for over 40 years, also a "modern" 18x96 quick change gear lathe. re the rough cut, you need to slow down the feed, let the tool do the work, and you"ll get a finer cut. Turning metal is a real treat- always satisfying to turn a piece, and say...." I did that!".
 
If you are saying the pipe is too big for the pointed spinning end then you machine a plug for it with a center hole.Or put a pipe cap on it.. If the tailstick is not centered it will cut a taper. Iron you usually cut dry .
 
I have 2 original copies Of How to Run A lathe plus may have a reprint.When you get tired of Ebay paypal crap. post back.
 
Does it have roller bearings of babbit? The babbit one require adjustment during use.
Are the gibbs on the slides properly adjusted?
The tool has to sharp and properly set like others said. Keep it close and tight. Too low and it will chatter.
Speed depth of cut and feed are other considerations.
Keep practicing and adjusting. That's what it takes.
I spent almost a year in machinist school and still I'am learning things. That was over 50 years ago.
 
(quoted from post at 17:14:41 09/28/13) eBay item number 32115413384 HOW TO RUN A LATHE by SOUTH BEND . 8.95 plus 2 something shipping. Okay I'm shutting up now.

Absolutely!!! You can also get on You Tube and look up the videos by "Tubal Cain" (the first metal worker in the Bible). There are several good machining sites out there too.
 
(quoted from post at 04:37:18 10/02/13)
(quoted from post at 17:14:41 09/28/13) eBay item number 32115413384 HOW TO RUN A LATHE by SOUTH BEND . 8.95 plus 2 something shipping. Okay I'm shutting up now.

Absolutely!!! You can also get on You Tube and look up the videos by "Tubal Cain" (the first metal worker in the Bible). There are several good machining sites out there too.

x2 on Tubal Cain/MrPete222
 

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