Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Anyone know where to get them, at a brick and mortar parts place? Looking for the mini blade type, that puts 2 fuses, in place of old fuse, plus an out wire for the added circuit. Got a dead wire to main relay, and need to come up with a work-around that lets me feed 12Volts (fused) to the hot leg of the relay.
 
I got a few of those from an on-line source. Don"t remember the name of it now, but might"ve found them on Amazon? I probably could have found them at my local NAPA. I"ve found a few other sort of weird electrical components there.
 
A two way radio shop, if there are any left, or a place that installs equipment in police cars.

Josh
 
Is this in a spot where you could just run a new wire with a single fuse holder to the relay? Or do you need it switched, too?

Another option would be a couple single-fuse holders, fed by a male spade terminal with one side cut off, then feed one to another spade terminal with one side cut off for the original circuit, and the other fed to your relay.
 
We have a 2012 Silverado. I installed a rear view camera on it. I THOUGHT it would be a straight forward project. Just find a spot on the fuse panel under the dash and splice into it. NOPE! It just ain't that simple any more. The ONLY place I could find that had power with the switch ON, and NO power with switch off was ONE terminal in the BIG box under the hood. The only way to accomplish my goal was to use one of those fuse taps.
 
If this is a "mini" fuse (NOT ATO), IIRC, the taps are limited to 10, maybe 15 Amps, probably not much more for an ATO, so this is NOT a good plan to feed a relay the is controlling a significant amount of power.
 
There are several ways to do this. One way is to use the fuse tap in the fuse box only for turning the relay on and off with the key. Use a very small value on that fuse as the only thing being added is the coil of the relay. Run the power directly off the battery, or a terminal block close by on many vehicles, through an inline fuse that's appropriate for the load, through the relay, to the load (camera?) and then to ground. That way your ignition doesn't know anything extra is added because of the low draw from the relay coil, and the points in the relay take the load.

I do this on our fire trucks. We are a volunteer department and the newer trucks (especially the Fords) are hard to rig up where the user turns the key on and everything works. Long story for another thread.
 
Found 'em at advance, $6.99, spliced it into the fuse box, through a switch, to a wire soldered to the to the (supposed to be hot) leg of the main relay. Need the switch, to turn off the hot leg, to kill the diesel motor. No worries about draw, it lights up the gauges when you flip the switch, but when you use the switch to kill the motor, it kills all else, too. It's a work around, hope to get it to the local electrical shop, tomorrow.
 
Most companies went to putting the switch in the ground wire some time ago. I got a fuse box from a 98 Malibu a while back for a project and couldn't make it work. All the fuses had one leg hot when putting voltage to the lug for the battery cable.

It lets them use lighter-duty (and cheaper) switches.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top