Older Whirlpool gas dryer converted to propane. Ignitor cycles properly, (recently replaced with newer "M" style.). Ignitor sensor switching properly. Appears that valve is not opening when ignitor switches off. Sometimes gas comes on and burns for 30 seconds or so. Then goes back off.
I have one voltmeter across the ignitor sensor, and it is reading properly - Voltage when switch open (ignitor hot) - no votage when switch closed (ignitor cold). Volt meter on incoming wires to valve/ignitor/sensor is showing voltage, indicating that upline thermostats are conducting. This would mean the valve or the solonoids are not working properly? New soloniod coils run about $90, and I don"t want to know what the valve AND solonoid coils cost...
Any suggestions?
(Got a feeling this is going to cost me a NEW washer AND dryer before this all plays out.)
I have one voltmeter across the ignitor sensor, and it is reading properly - Voltage when switch open (ignitor hot) - no votage when switch closed (ignitor cold). Volt meter on incoming wires to valve/ignitor/sensor is showing voltage, indicating that upline thermostats are conducting. This would mean the valve or the solonoids are not working properly? New soloniod coils run about $90, and I don"t want to know what the valve AND solonoid coils cost...
Any suggestions?
(Got a feeling this is going to cost me a NEW washer AND dryer before this all plays out.)