OT Any appliance repairmen on board? Gas Dryer

RayP(MI)

Well-known Member
Older Whirlpool gas dryer converted to propane. Ignitor cycles properly, (recently replaced with newer "M" style.). Ignitor sensor switching properly. Appears that valve is not opening when ignitor switches off. Sometimes gas comes on and burns for 30 seconds or so. Then goes back off.
I have one voltmeter across the ignitor sensor, and it is reading properly - Voltage when switch open (ignitor hot) - no votage when switch closed (ignitor cold). Volt meter on incoming wires to valve/ignitor/sensor is showing voltage, indicating that upline thermostats are conducting. This would mean the valve or the solonoids are not working properly? New soloniod coils run about $90, and I don"t want to know what the valve AND solonoid coils cost...

Any suggestions?


(Got a feeling this is going to cost me a NEW washer AND dryer before this all plays out.)
 

You say that the ignitor sensor is working, but does it go through a circuit board to hold the gas valve open? I'm wondering if what ever holds the gas valve open is not working.

Dusty
 
Sensor is normally closed - when ignitor is not lit. That's what keeps the solonoids energized to permit gas flow. That circuitry is either ingenious or devious, depending on how you look at it. Ignitor is essentially in parallel with soloniods, and open or closed regulates which is activated.
 
There are two coils on the valve, one for lighting the burner and the other to keep it going once it's lit. The second one is probably bad. You replace them in pairs, and you should be able to get them for a lot less than ninety bucks.
 
The ignitor can LOOK good and still be off on resistance.

The fact that it lights off means the valves are opening.

Ohm the coils and the ignitor, but I would try another ignitor first.
 
(quoted from post at 09:34:08 08/29/13) Kevin, help me to understand how the burner can light with a bad ignitor.

They sometimes will get hot enough to light off but not carry the proper resistance to maintain flame.

There is usually a timed flame proving which is why they light off but then drop out if the ignitor is bad.

They are often part of the flame safety circuit rather than a separate flame rod.

I have changed many over the years for this very reason, they work the same on furnaces, dryers, ovens, etc.
 

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