- Thread starter mmidlam
- Start date
timcasbolt
Well-known Member
Just put a new bulb in my push mower this year. It's 9 years old.
thebigyellowtruck
Member
The poulans use a cheaper material to make their primer bulbs it seems. When i worked at homedepot we always had people coming in to buy new bulbs right at 2 years when the warranty expired. The go even quicker if the saw gets left in the sun for long periods of time.
Zachary Hoyt
Well-known Member
Poulan saws are only really designed to be used once, I think. If you have a hurricane or a tornado and don't have a chainsaw then you buy one and by the time the next storm comes along it will probably be time for a new one since they don't sit around too well either.
Zach
Zach
danmcdonald
Member
Thats why they call them Pullon.
Russ from MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Bemidji MN
This is ironic! Yesterday I cleaned up and sharpened my only Poulan, I bought it brand new in the fall of 72! Almost 41 years ago, and it still runs good. I have put one kit in the carburetor and one new chain, but that is it! I bought it from a Jonsered dealer, it says Lil-jon on it, but it was made by Poulan,I originally bought it to carry on my snowmobile. as there were no real trails then, if you came to a tree across the trail or river that you were on you had to be prepared. Now I carry it on my brush cutter for the same reason. For serious cutting I use bigger Jonsereds.
The older metal cased Poulans were different breed than todays plastic trash, just as the older Huskys were better than the box store 455's, etc. of today. I have a couple older "Pullons" I'll put up against any similar displacement saw of 3.5-4.0 ci.
THe poster noting Poulans primer bulb material is poor quality is correct. That's why Poulans, Ryobis, etc. tend to have problems- poor material and cheap design.
THe poster noting Poulans primer bulb material is poor quality is correct. That's why Poulans, Ryobis, etc. tend to have problems- poor material and cheap design.
notjustair
Well-known Member
I started running that premixed gas in the bottles in the trimmer, blower, and saw. They run so much better and things last. It isn't cheap, but I also know the gas line won't rot off in a week.
I know that everyone has an opinion, but I, personally, think that buying anything pre-mixed is wasting money.
I think pre-mix is for people who don't know how to pre-mix or don't want to bother with the effort.
I don't buy pre-mix gas for the same reason I don't buy pre-mix anti-freeze, herbicides, or pesticides.
I have worked on small engines for over 50 years and have always gotten by with mixing my own brew. I have a Husqvarna chainsaw I bought new in 1980, and just recently replaced the hard fuel lines. I have never run gas with ethanol and use the best two cycle oil I can find.
Ethanol is not your friend with any engine not designed to use it.
Like I said--just my opinion and I am probably in a minority.
I hear a lot of anecdotal stories but tend to believe what I see myself.
I've got several Poulans that are 4-5 years old and never had to replace the primer bulbs yet. I DID have to the replace the gas cap on one that swelled up so bad I needed a wrench to turn it.
We've got 10% ethanol here and I haven't noticed any difference in anything in regard to rubber-rot. When I worked for Sthil dealer - we had rubber fuel lines rotting out something awful on Stihl pro-saws 30 years ago. So, I don't blame it just on the fuel.
The saws sold as Poulan now have nothing to do with the original Poulan saw company in Louisiana. The newer Poulans are made by the same company that makes Husqvarna. The difference seems to be that Husqvarna still makes some pro saws with metal crankcases (instead of plastic). Poulan does not make any professional saws.
I buy Poulans as "throw-away" junkers that I won't feel too bad over if one gets stolen. For that - they've been fine. I DID buy a 20" Poulan at Home Depot a year or so ago with a "tool-less" chain adjuster that was just plain awful! What a piece of cr*p! I finally drilled a second hole in the bar cover so I could fasten the bar with two nuts instead and it's been fine ever since.
Now adays - if I wanted a good pro saw - I'd stick with a Dolmar/Makita or an Efco. I find them to be much more saw for the money then anything Sthil has.
I've got several Poulans that are 4-5 years old and never had to replace the primer bulbs yet. I DID have to the replace the gas cap on one that swelled up so bad I needed a wrench to turn it.
We've got 10% ethanol here and I haven't noticed any difference in anything in regard to rubber-rot. When I worked for Sthil dealer - we had rubber fuel lines rotting out something awful on Stihl pro-saws 30 years ago. So, I don't blame it just on the fuel.
The saws sold as Poulan now have nothing to do with the original Poulan saw company in Louisiana. The newer Poulans are made by the same company that makes Husqvarna. The difference seems to be that Husqvarna still makes some pro saws with metal crankcases (instead of plastic). Poulan does not make any professional saws.
I buy Poulans as "throw-away" junkers that I won't feel too bad over if one gets stolen. For that - they've been fine. I DID buy a 20" Poulan at Home Depot a year or so ago with a "tool-less" chain adjuster that was just plain awful! What a piece of cr*p! I finally drilled a second hole in the bar cover so I could fasten the bar with two nuts instead and it's been fine ever since.
Now adays - if I wanted a good pro saw - I'd stick with a Dolmar/Makita or an Efco. I find them to be much more saw for the money then anything Sthil has.
Geo-TH,In
Well-known Member
There is no doubt in my mind that al-key-hall in gas and the mixed oil is the cause for many 2-cycle carb failures. Gas hoses, bulbs, diaframs, Don't care which which brand. You may find that chain saws use the same off the shelf carb, like Zama or walbro, May not have the spelling right.
Didn't use my weedwacker much last year, too dry. Think the oil in the gas gummed up carb and had to get a new carb. Couldn't clean the carb with no jets and get it to idle right.
Just wish someone would come up with a 4 stroke chainsaw, however they would still have to use a carb with a diafram.
Didn't use my weedwacker much last year, too dry. Think the oil in the gas gummed up carb and had to get a new carb. Couldn't clean the carb with no jets and get it to idle right.
Just wish someone would come up with a 4 stroke chainsaw, however they would still have to use a carb with a diafram.
Ellis Kinney
Well-known Member
I run premiun gas in all my small engines. Mowers and chain saws and leaf blowers. I could be wrong, but I don't think premium has alcohol in it. That could solve some problems. The owners manual on my 48" walk behind says mid grade or better gas. (15hp kow) Ellis
I think it depend on the gas you use how long the primer bulbs last. I have had Poulans for years, they don't seem to attract the thieves as much as a real saw. I also abuse my saws, cutting way too close to the ground a lot...Anyhow I have bad primer bulbs in most of my lawn equipment this year. Last year we had drought conditions so nothing got used much but it all got plenty of heat... Must have gotten a bad batch of fuel at some point too, went to start the weedeater and there were no fuel lines left.Local places get $6 a foot for the line too, and it lasts a year. Changed the fuel line, pushed the primer bulb and it split wide open. Two saws, one mower and a pair of weedeaters have bad primer bulbs to change. I never changed one until this year in my own stuff, and most was bought used.
I took a Wild Thing Poulan apart this spring, bought it from Tractor supply as an unrepairable returned parts saw...Never had one this far apart before but for a cheap saw I am impressed with the engineering. It should run fine once I get it back together, a fastener had jammed the flywheel where it could not be seen until the saw was apart completely.
Anyone got a hint for keeping bar oil in a Poulan during storage?
I took a Wild Thing Poulan apart this spring, bought it from Tractor supply as an unrepairable returned parts saw...Never had one this far apart before but for a cheap saw I am impressed with the engineering. It should run fine once I get it back together, a fastener had jammed the flywheel where it could not be seen until the saw was apart completely.
Anyone got a hint for keeping bar oil in a Poulan during storage?
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
I still make do with a Poulan 245a and an SD25a, takes a little tinkering but I'v been using them for about 10 years.
My favorite trim saw is a little McCulloch Mini Mac 30 that I bought from Kmart in the late 70's.
My favorite trim saw is a little McCulloch Mini Mac 30 that I bought from Kmart in the late 70's.
I am glade to hear you have had good luck with your Poulan saw. I had a new one just before I got the used Echo saw and it spent more time in the shop than it did out in the woods. My large saws are Stihl and my small saw is the Echo. I do have an old Husky 50 Special that I use every so often. I like my Stihl the oldest is 10 years old and the newest is 5 and none of them have been back to a dealer. I clean mine every time I get done cutting for the day.
Rollie NE PA
Well-known Member
Jiles, The premixed fuel does not have ethanol in it. That makes it popular plus it has a high octane rating. In pennsylvania it is almost impossible to buy gas without ethanol.
Yes, and I can tell several stories about loggers who switched from Sthil to Dolmar/Makita, love them and say they would never go back to Stihl.
Like I said earlier, I'll believe what I see and experience myself. I was a Sthil mechanic going back to 1970 and still own a dozen Stihl saws. After my 045 Super had an ignition part fail -and Sthil USA told me "no parts available" - I tried to buy a new 65-80 cc saw from Sthil. The prices were ridiculous. I bought a 64 CC Makita/Dolmar instead and love it. I later got a lighter 52 CC Dolmar which is just as well built. Sthil makes some saws built just as good but overpriced.
Technically, Dolmar has been around a bit longer then Stihl and is a popular pro saw in Europe. Just never did any heavy marketing in the USA.
You say the loggers you know say the Dolmars were no good? Some facts please. What specific problems did they claim?
Like I said earlier, I'll believe what I see and experience myself. I was a Sthil mechanic going back to 1970 and still own a dozen Stihl saws. After my 045 Super had an ignition part fail -and Sthil USA told me "no parts available" - I tried to buy a new 65-80 cc saw from Sthil. The prices were ridiculous. I bought a 64 CC Makita/Dolmar instead and love it. I later got a lighter 52 CC Dolmar which is just as well built. Sthil makes some saws built just as good but overpriced.
Technically, Dolmar has been around a bit longer then Stihl and is a popular pro saw in Europe. Just never did any heavy marketing in the USA.
You say the loggers you know say the Dolmars were no good? Some facts please. What specific problems did they claim?
One note about the newer "el cheapo" Poulans. I found that two of my newest cr*p Poulans started running lean. Maybe caused by the lesser BTUs in newer gas is ethanol?
If I could of just reached in with a screwdriver and opened up the main jet - all would of been fine. But I couldn't. They've got special splined ends on the jet-screws and the price for a wrench to fit is ridiculous. I finally made a tool with a red crimp-type electrical butt connector. It grips the ends of those screws and turned them. The saws run fine now. If I had left them that way (lean) they would of burnt out.
I also run a 25 to 1 mix which makes them run even leaner. So the extra oil plus the ethanol requires opening up the main jets a bit.
If I could of just reached in with a screwdriver and opened up the main jet - all would of been fine. But I couldn't. They've got special splined ends on the jet-screws and the price for a wrench to fit is ridiculous. I finally made a tool with a red crimp-type electrical butt connector. It grips the ends of those screws and turned them. The saws run fine now. If I had left them that way (lean) they would of burnt out.
I also run a 25 to 1 mix which makes them run even leaner. So the extra oil plus the ethanol requires opening up the main jets a bit.
smallercrawler
Member
Had numerous fuel related problems with infrequently used saws, mowers, power heads, tillers, leaf blowers, small tractors, etc. Went to non-ethanol gas (at about an extra quarter per gallon) a couple of years ago, cleaned up all the carbs and deteriorated fuel system components (lines, bulbs, etc.), and have had NO further issues. Some will disagree, but it works for me!
smallercrawler
Member
I found a cheap ball point pen barrel works well for those adjustment screws.
The greatest problem with ethanol gasoline is the absorption of moisture, along with dissolving fuel lines and carb components. In my business, I have tore down carbs that would be stopped up with a brown powder residue. I feel this is caused by ethanol because I have never encountered it with non-ethanol fuel.
For those of you that cannot find ethanol free, I would suggest--STA-BIL Ethanol Fuel Treatment and Stabilizer. This stuff seems to work.
I might also suggest that you empty the fuel tank and crank and run engine until all fuel is removed from the carb, if you are not going to use the machine for a few weeks.
I purchase only ethanol free premium fuel for all my small engines and treat it with STA-BIL immediately, even if I will use it up in a few days/weeks.
For those of you that cannot find ethanol free, I would suggest--STA-BIL Ethanol Fuel Treatment and Stabilizer. This stuff seems to work.
I might also suggest that you empty the fuel tank and crank and run engine until all fuel is removed from the carb, if you are not going to use the machine for a few weeks.
I purchase only ethanol free premium fuel for all my small engines and treat it with STA-BIL immediately, even if I will use it up in a few days/weeks.
Saws losing compression? Someone is telling you a story friend. I've got several Dolmars that are every bit as well made as Stihl or Husky. They are all good saws if given equal care. I'm betting someone didn't like the feel of the Dolmar vs Stihl and found an excuse of "low compression".
I have cut a lot of firewood and used virtually every brand of chainsaw. Like I said earlier, torque is your best friend cutting wood.
If a chainsaw is set up to turn 14,000 RPM and it doesn't have the torque to keep 10,000 RPM in a cut, would it not be better to have a saw that turns 12,000 RPM and will keep 11,000 RPM in the cut??
This example is only a guess but if you cut a lot of wood, you know what I am referring to.
Chainsaws are like cars and other items--usually what a person has at the time, is the BEST!
I know that Stihl is the best selling chainsaw in the world and Ford Trucks are the best selling truck in the world. So, why do people buy other brands?
I have an OLD Craftsman 3.7 cu in chainsaw with a 20" bar. I bought it new in 1980.
It is the ONLY saw I have ever used that will start the chain cutting with the saw idling, placed on the log, with light pressure, pull the throttle and it cuts.
That is TORQUE!
If a chainsaw is set up to turn 14,000 RPM and it doesn't have the torque to keep 10,000 RPM in a cut, would it not be better to have a saw that turns 12,000 RPM and will keep 11,000 RPM in the cut??
This example is only a guess but if you cut a lot of wood, you know what I am referring to.
Chainsaws are like cars and other items--usually what a person has at the time, is the BEST!
I know that Stihl is the best selling chainsaw in the world and Ford Trucks are the best selling truck in the world. So, why do people buy other brands?
I have an OLD Craftsman 3.7 cu in chainsaw with a 20" bar. I bought it new in 1980.
It is the ONLY saw I have ever used that will start the chain cutting with the saw idling, placed on the log, with light pressure, pull the throttle and it cuts.
That is TORQUE!
Mel in SW Iowa
Member
If I remember to remove and replace the oil cap when I put it away releasing the pressure in the bar oil tank, my two Poulan's seem to not puke it out nearly as bad. I think any change in temp will pressurize and push some of the oil out though.
T in NE
Well-known Member
- Location
- Cambridge, Nebraska
We had a Poulan in the early 90s, it was the same saw as the Pioneer Farmsaw. The farmsaw broke down, then the Poulan had a tree dropped on it, so we took the two to s saw shop and had one good saw made out of them. Too bad we didn't have evilpay 15 years ago when it died again, as it was a heck of a good running saw.
Did you tear any of them down to see if they were actually "wearing out"? Did you check to see if there was any other issue? You only have a "seemed to be wearing out" diagnosis to whatever the issue was and yet you're trashing a fine line of saws.
Some people simply like Stihl or Husky or whatever better. I have both Stihl and Husky, Dolmar, Solo, Mac, Homie, Poulan and Pioneer. Given equally sharp chains on the same log my big Dolmar will outcut my big Husky and Stihl. It's just a terrific saw. Thing is my ancient Mac 300 will almost keep up with the big Husky! Torque dontchaknow.
Don't get too hung up on brand is my advice. Husky was a better saw in general 30 years ago than Stihl. Then Stihl pulled ahead. Today Stihl and Husky both have serious competition that's a lot more affordable.
Depending on which model Poulan you have, you can try fixing the leak. The biggest issue I've had in my shop is that Poulan fits a slightly small hose into a slightly big hole and expects the oil to stay put. This is the fitting leading from the tank to pump line. I've fixed a couple by making a new fitting, another by using parts from a different saw I had laying around and one with JB Weld. In the end there's no easy fix except to find a bushing of some sort to fit the tank hole to provide a tighter fit.
I'm not fool enough to believe anecdotal stories with no specifics given.
On the other hand if someone explains a failure with some genuine facts - I pay attention. I don't believe or disbelieve. Just register it into memory and see if I come across more evidence to support the story.
As to a blanket statement like "Stihls are better then Dolmars?" Hardly worth paying attention too. Dolmar is a slightly older saw company than Stihl and makes a lot of pro saws in Europe.
In regard to some logging company quitting Dolmar?
Maybe but why? Quality? Prices? Options? Local repair shops? Lots of loggers and firewood people very happy with Dolmars. And yeah - I'm sure many happy with Stihls. To each his own, I guess.
I did not switch to Dolmars because they were better then equivalent Stihl saws. I switched because they were every bit at good but priced less.
On the other hand if someone explains a failure with some genuine facts - I pay attention. I don't believe or disbelieve. Just register it into memory and see if I come across more evidence to support the story.
As to a blanket statement like "Stihls are better then Dolmars?" Hardly worth paying attention too. Dolmar is a slightly older saw company than Stihl and makes a lot of pro saws in Europe.
In regard to some logging company quitting Dolmar?
Maybe but why? Quality? Prices? Options? Local repair shops? Lots of loggers and firewood people very happy with Dolmars. And yeah - I'm sure many happy with Stihls. To each his own, I guess.
I did not switch to Dolmars because they were better then equivalent Stihl saws. I switched because they were every bit at good but priced less.
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