Remote temperature gauge???

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Looking for something, for my hay cutting tractor. Let me explain, I have a hand held IR thermometer, and in the past used it to determine that the gauge on the tractor (which is on the head, right next to the muffler and manifold is reading at least 40 degrees hot. The tractor never has any symptoms of overheating, except for a little AF blowout, when the tank is real full. What I am looking for is a wireless (preferably) temperature sending unit, that would read the coolant temp, while under load, about like the oem gauge should, if it weren't in a hot spot. Anybody have any experience with any modern technology, that would work for this??
 
Using simple MENTAL math, subtract 40 degrees from what the inaccurate gauge reads, and PRESTO, all is SWELL!
 
In overheat questions I use a meat thermometer in the top tank to check actual temperatures.No IR thermometers in the 50s.Just be careful opening pressure systems,a leather glove is best.
 
Bob, not sure if that reading is correct, under load. What I want is something that shows the actual temp, not a pegged out gauge. still not real sure that it is actually running hot, or if the gauge is loopy.
 
How do you come to the conclusion that the temp gauge is reading too hot? How can you determine the actual coolant temperature with your IR thermometer? The IR device determines temperature from the energy radiated by the exterior of whatever it's pointed at. You can't read the actual water temperature inside the water jacket of a closed cooling system.

The sending unit is located in the head for a good reason: If it were located lower on the engine, when the cooling system loses pressure the temperature will never get over 212F until all the coolant has boiled out. Since 212 is within the normal range for a pressurized cooling system, you wouldn't notice the overheating before there is damage to the engine. By placing the sender in the head, once enough water is lost that the sender is "dry", it will indicate cylinder head temperature rather than water temperature, making the overheating obvious.

You might want to pressure test your cooling system.
 
(quoted from post at 04:40:27 08/01/13) Looking for something, for my hay cutting tractor. Let me explain, I have a hand held IR thermometer, and in the past used it to determine that the gauge on the tractor (which is on the head, right next to the muffler and manifold is reading at least 40 degrees hot. The tractor never has any symptoms of overheating, except for a little AF blowout, when the tank is real full. What I am looking for is a wireless (preferably) temperature sending unit, that would read the coolant temp, while under load, about like the oem gauge should, if it weren't in a hot spot. Anybody have any experience with any modern technology, that would work for this??

It is not uncommon using a IR to see the temp were the sender sets in the head to be high. Check the temp just below the thermostat does it agree with the gauge.... If the temp checks normal its possible the gauge is reading incorrect,,, If its high the gauge may be correct... What is the temp just below the thermo ,, what is the temp just above the thermo at operating temp... Remember you are checking surface temp it may not be the actual coolant temp that may be why the IR reads higher around the head... The IR can throw you a curve ball that's why you move it around the temp at and below the thermo is what you need to be concerned with....

When a overheating complaint comes into the shop like yours high gauge reading with no other symptom of overheating I first confirm is it actually overheating can I believe the gauge using a IR tool.... If it is overheating I believe the gauge ,,, If its not overheating I suspect the gauge if its not I try and find out why the gauge is incorrect....
 
I find that when you're using an IR heat gun the best places (at least on Ford blocks) to read temperature is on the right side towards the front at the head/block intersection. That represents the return coolant path in the block on those engines. I find at least on them the thermostat housing doesn't read very well... mabey gets a chill from air movement, etc... but along the right side is fairly sheltered.

Beyond that I'd have to wonder why you question the gauge? Most times if a gauge reads steady and predictably... it's probably good. You can obviously buy an electric gauge and mount it in an acceptable orifice... but electric gauges are somewhat susceptible to voltage variations in the system.
I don't think the muffler/manifold is going to have ~any~ bearing on the reading presented by the jacket temperature gauge you have now although it WILL effect the readings of an IR gauge.

Rod
 
(quoted from post at 09:44:16 08/01/13) In reality, if it is NOT boiling the coolant, it is NOT too hot!
an not disagree with what has been said. CAUTION: don't put much faith in IR thermometers! Bought two in same package at national hardware chain and they repeatably show 50F apart!!! Yes, I expect that if I bought a $500.00 unit,that it would be better IF properly used.
 
I use a RediCheck Remote Cooking Thermometer on my outdoor wood boiler. Have the sending unit on the heat exchanger and reciever in my house. Been using it for 4 years and works great. Just have to change batteries once a year. Not expensive and accurate.
RediCheck Remote Cooking Thermometer
 
(quoted from post at 18:07:57 08/01/13)
(quoted from post at 09:44:16 08/01/13) In reality, if it is NOT boiling the coolant, it is NOT too hot!
an not disagree with what has been said. CAUTION: don't put much faith in IR thermometers! Bought two in same package at national hardware chain and they repeatably show 50F apart!!! Yes, I expect that if I bought a $500.00 unit,that it would be better IF properly used.

Mine is a Mastercool 52224 around $75 and its purty much dead nutz... I wore the first one I brought out I got it sometime in the very late 80's are early 90's... They are not accurate on every thing but most automotive applications they work great...

The other question about were you shoot it at YES the exhaust side of a head are around a exhaust manifold the surface temps will be much higher than the coolant temp...

Try one on yer N you will find the exhaust side top of the cylinder head to run around 400 deg. :shock: On a chebby small block were the temp sender is in the side of the head the head will run much hotter than the coolant sender reads...

That's why he needs to shoot his IR around a part that is not affected by other heat sources like the exh side of a head if he's trying to figger the coolant temp out...
 
More background: This is an AC d-12 with a 149 CU in gas motor. Sending unit is located top of head, right over #4 exhaust port. Manifold is about an inch down, and an inch from the sender's side. On the 160 motor, I think the sender is moved to the thermostat housing, IIRC. I Checked the temps all over both sides of the motor, with the IRT, no major hot spots, consistently -40 F. Gauge was put on maybe 10 years ago, so If it is bad, I would rather mount the sender somewhere else, but there is no other spot, less'n I drill in to the block somewhere, and I don't want to guess at that.
 
RMinVa, what is the highest temperature reading you have gotten from the redicheck? Will it do 250-300 F range? Amazon doesn't give any specifics. Thanks for your help.
 
(quoted from post at 16:50:12 08/01/13) More background: This is an AC d-12 with a 149 CU in gas motor. Sending unit is located top of head, right over #4 exhaust port. Manifold is about an inch down, and an inch from the sender's side. On the 160 motor, I think the sender is moved to the thermostat housing, IIRC. I Checked the temps all over both sides of the motor, with the IRT, no major hot spots, consistently -40 F. Gauge was put on maybe 10 years ago, so If it is bad, I would rather mount the sender somewhere else, but there is no other spot, less'n I drill in to the block somewhere, and I don't want to guess at that.

I have the same engine in a D-10. I've never worked it hard, it's mostly road driven. I had to put a new temperature gauge on it, It's one piece, the sensor and gauge with a tube between. It works fine for me.

Dusty
 
I've never used those specifically... but the principle is pretty well proven as the striping is used on all fire bunker gear, etc today. It gets hot; it turns color. I'd expect the things you're looking at to work if used as intended... but if you're intending to use them as a heat gauge on this engine... I don't think they're going to work.

Rod
 

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