tire patch cement

woodbutcher

Well-known Member
I have a pint-size container of cement that has turned into jelly. Has anyone had success thinning it down, maybe with acetone? I don't patch many flats, but I like to have some cement handy. I don't want to go to town for more, just to have it gel in a few months.
Butch
 
Thanks for the replies. Right now, I'm trying to patch a bicycle tire tube, and I wanted to save myself a trip to town for something so minor. I'm not familiar with heptane. Can I buy it at TSC?
Butch
 
One thing keep the tire cement in the house where it will not get real hot or real cold that helps keep it good longer. I have had the same thing happen and it is pretty much throw the old away and get new. But I also have a set up that I can patch a tube with out using any cement but it is very old and heats up real hot
 
if you are going to TSC, get a new can, your life or someone else's is not worth trying to save on a 3.98 can of tire patch cement
 
WB.......store yer new can of rubber cement UP-SIDEDOWN!!! seriously!!! By being up-sidedown the cement "seals" the threads and can NOT VAPORIZE thru the can threads to dry-out yer rubber cement. ........the well glued Dell
 
I gave up trying to keep a large container of cement from hardening when only used occasionally. Now I just keep on hand several of the cheap simple kits that include a few patches & a little tube of cement. I open a new tube each time I need some cement.
 
So Dell doesn't that cause the lid to get sealed on so it would in turn be hard to open??????
 
old........the ONLY air contacting the UPSIDE-DOWN rubber cement is just the FIRST turn. And suprizingly enuff, you have more'n'nuff muscle to overcome the WEAK stick'em strength. .........Dell
 
I don't have ANY luck getting patches to stick to ANY tube. I wipe,clean with the tube cleaner used for that purpose,buff, glue, press with a weight or a vice, and they still will not stick for long or completely. I have been suspecting that the problem is the material in the tube. What am I doing wrong?
 
Matter-of-fact, Dell: I had stored this container upside down for a few months. Some of it found its way out and made a puddle on the shelf.
 
If you are not in a hurry you can order a small items like that on your local hardware store's website and have them mailed to your home within a few days. It costs less than driving into town and back.
 
(quoted from post at 09:41:19 05/24/13) WB.......store yer new can of rubber cement UP-SIDEDOWN!!! seriously!!! By being up-sidedown the cement "seals" the threads and can NOT VAPORIZE thru the can threads to dry-out yer rubber cement. ........the well glued Dell

That also works for partial cans of paint.

Dusty
 
Different brands of patches and cement may not be compatible. I have learned the Master brand of patches and Victor cement are not compatible. Gemplers claimed the activator can be in the cement or on the patch for different brands.
Also the non-flammable cement takes longer to dry and get ready for a patch then the flammable cement,especially on a cold day.
 
What I do is carefully use a grinder wheel on a 4 inch grinder to clean the tube and ruff it up. Then apply the glue and let it film over then lay the patch on. The glue has to sit a few minutes before you put the patch on it the patch will not stick
 
(quoted from post at 08:23:58 05/25/13) What I do is carefully use a grinder wheel on a 4 inch grinder to clean the tube and ruff it up. Then apply the glue and let it film over then lay the patch on. The glue has to sit a few minutes before you put the patch on it the patch will not stick

That's exactly what I use to buff them up. Also you can carefully remove the reinforced area around a detatched (ripped off) stem with the same process and glue a replacement stemmed repair patch over the existing hole. The trick is patience. If the rest of the tube is in good shape it is worth the effort considering the cost of tubes nowadays. IMHO anway.

Like old said above, the trick is letting the glue almost dry completely before applying the patch as it is a "contact adhesive". Then use the appropriate roller to roll from center out all the way around it forcing air out and forcing good contact between the surfaces. And don't touch the patch surface with your fingers as the covering is removed as contaminents will be added to the chemical bond effecting the outcome. Good luck on your next tube-patch adventure !!!
 
(quoted from post at 06:20:40 05/24/13) I have a pint-size container of cement that has turned into jelly. Has anyone had success thinning it down, maybe with acetone? I don't patch many flats, but I like to have some cement handy. I don't want to go to town for more, just to have it gel in a few months.
Butch

Is that cement or is it a cleaner?
I had a neighbor that right after putting the patch on, he would it on the anvil and firmly pound on patch with a hammer.
That seemed to work well for him.

Dusty
 
I will tell you how my father did it back in the 40' and early fifty's. He would rough up the area of the hole, put on the glue and spread it around. He would then light the glue with a match, blow it out real quick and apply the patch. He had to pull the white plastic off the back of patch first. That worked for him but things have changed since then. I would bet it would still work today.

I use a wire brush in a drill motor to rough up the area of hole whether it is in a tube or the tire. Apply the glue and wait a minute or so till the shine fades away. Apply patch and take the tool to roll from the center to the outside edges of patch.
 

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