Welding steel to cast.

Stephen Newell

Well-known Member
I have this old motor that is broken and I would like to fabricate pieces to fill in. I would have to make the pieces out of steel and the only way I have to weld them in is an electric welder. I have welded cast to cast with a nickle rod but I don't know if I can weld steel to cast. There is nothing structural here but I would hate for the pieces to fall into the motor while it's running.
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I would leave it alone unless you want to take it apart to do the welding. If you try to weld it as it sits you run a risk of getting it to hot and then burning the insulation off wires etc and that in turn can/will cause a short
 


Stephen,

That looks like a repulsion - induction

motor, be careful your weld splatter doesn"t

get inside.

Tell me what size cast strips you need and

I can send you some, as I do much cast repair.

george
 
You are right, it is a repulsion induction motor. It came off a WWII era Sears table saw. I used the saw in the early 1970's and something broke on it which I couldn't fix at the time so I salvaged everything I could off the saw and disposed of it. I used the motor on one thing or another over the years but haven't used it in more than 20 years. This week I bought a antique woodworking bandsaw that didn't have a motor so I planned to use this one. I plan to restore the bandsaw so I hate to use a motor with a big hole in it. This is behind the repair. The two cast pieces missing are 2 1/4" straight across the break but if measured around the contour measure 2 1/2". I think I could make the pieces out of 1/4" steel without too much trouble. I was just unsure about welding steel to cast. I believe that end of the motor wouldn't be too much trouble to get off but I will have to double check.
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No problem welding steel to cast. Just use nickel rod or braze it and as said be careful not to get stuff in the motor. Here is a cast gear that I fixed with steel using nickel rod.
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If you are handy, you could make a couple of molds of the pieces and fill it with JB Weld and then JB Weld them in place. Would be about the same color.
 
Thanks everyone, the repair worked. I probaby would have welded it without taking the end off. It gave a chance to clean the dirt dobber nests out of it better too.

I have one other thing I would like to do is rewire it from 110V to 220V. The way it is now A+B are wired to Neutral and C&D are wired to 110V. Would I seperate C&D and wire each to a 110V leg?.
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You need the name plate to tell you how to make it 220. There is a way to ring it out with a tester if the leads lose the markings but I am not capable of describing it as the leads are T1 T2 and such not letters. If you are in doubt you might want to leave it as you don't save any electricity at 220 vs 110.Things like this are in the Uglys book.If you experiment be ready to unplug it quickly.The repair looks like it came out nice.
 
Using an open motor on a band saw is a poor idea.Sawdust on the brush leads can catch fire.Theres lots of sparking at the brushes during starting.
 
There is not that much dust with the saw it is going to be used on. It is certainly less dust than the saw it came off of. The motor was off an old Sears table saw like this one which the motor was directly under the blade.
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