Solenoid switch

guido

Well-known Member
Hello,

Here is the solenoid switch that is not making the engine cranck on the generator. Now another part is bad. Guess I'll have to get another one?
Or maybe I'll just see if it is something I can easly fix?

Guido.
a108285.jpg
 
Its a simple device that can be tested on the bench with a battery.Much confusion on forums about solenoids.No need..
 
I'm just thrilled to see SOMEONE who doesn't call it a "cellanoid".

I agree, its more likely a relay. In addition to the big terminals, there should be two smaller ones, a + and - (or just one, if it grounds through the mounting bracket). Should be infinite ohms across the two big terminals until you apply voltage to the little one(s), then should go to 0 ohms. If it doesn't, the sucker's broke, and you have to get a new one- no way to fix.
 
Hello dr sportster

It is a solenoid switch. That is what I called these things for many moons. This one is internally grounded. Inside there are a few parts. A spring loaded bar that makes contact between the two lugs. A metal cup with hole in the center for the plunger to act on when the solenoid is energized. A coil winding with an iron plunger that moves against the spring loaded pin and bar assembly that make the bar contact the two lugs. Thus transfer the battery power to the other lug energizing the starter.
Ground for the coil is accomplished with a spring, form the ground side of the coil to the matel portion of the solenoid. Ones the unit is mounter, it will make the ground for the coil.
Ignition power to the coil will activate the solenoid.

Guido.
 
Hello Mike (WA),

I learned how to spell in night school He!
I'm still calling it a solenoid though.
I hear it clicking, so something is moving inside?

Guido.
 
I've got two Onan engines on garden tractors, each has a starter solenoid and one of those that they call an auxillary solenoid. I took one apart a couple years ago and got it working before I remembered that I already had a spare.
 
Was taught 30+ years ago in auto mechanics school that it is a solenoid SWITCH. Even on the old Ford starters, the solenoid is technically on the starter. I guess it really doesn't matter though. If you go to a parts store and ask for a solenoid, you will get your solenoid switch handed to you by the parts man.
 
"doesn't matter" is correct answer. My original Model T Ford parts manual says "motor", whereas most in current times use 'motor' to mean a shaft output electrically powered device and the Model T power plant , an "engine". But all but the annal (sp) know what it meant. Solenoid is a magnetic device that moves a core or plunger. Now what that movement does is up to the designer. It might be a door latch, door lock, trunk lid latch, a copper washer pulled against tow copper bolt heads, or move a bendix into a flywheel, or holy moley, even both as in a 60's GM starter (switch & bendix mover all with one solenoid!!
 
just to add another name for them, they are also referred to as a contactor by many electric forklift manufacturers, and can be found with 12v, 24v, 36v and 48v coils to pull the contacts together. Some look exactly like that, but there are also larger ones with much larger and heavier contact tips in them, rated up to 500 amps, or more. The larger ones usually have open contacts that you can see move when activated.
 
GUIDO, your solenoid looks like those used on mowers. Call it what you want, solenoid, relay, motor contactor. Basically they all work the same way. A electo-mangetic controlled heavy duty switch.

A solenoid is an automotive term, relay is an electonic term, and a motor contactor is an air-conditioning term compressors.

A solenoid can also be a term for electro-magnetic controlled valves. Gas, air , water soleniod, ect.

Take a screw driver, touch the two large terminals and you are jumping out the switch part of the solenoid.

If this is off a mower, there are many safety switches that could be causing your problem.
LOL
George
 
Hello George March,

Thanks for the explaination. Saved me the time to do it. I have taken the solenoid apart. It had a bad ground and was rusty. I soldered A wire to the negative side of the solenoid and wrap it around the spring. Had to drill out the rivets to take it apart, and i used screws to put it back togather. HEY! its not my first rodeo! No other safety devices in this case.
HO! by the way.................. it works.
Guido.
 
Once I saw the pictures of it taken apart I knew you were going to fix it yourself. I always drill out rivets of stuff like that . File and spray and see what you can get away with. Ha ha good save.
 
Hello dr sportster,

o Thanks!once I knew the coil was good, I took time to clean it. Works just fine.
I know it is not that much to buy one. I like to be green, heck I've been green way before it became a cool thing to do.
Have a good day..................Guido
 
Hello 36 coupe,

I have built ths box when we used to race RC cars. It has a a very strong 12v out @9 AMPS on the top red and black connectors. That is my 12v source I used to check the solenoid. Those little wires are the power for the dark looking box.

Guido.
 
Guido,
Glad it worked for you.

There are many places on line that sell mower parts real cheap. I just purchased a new honda carb $48, rebuild kit $9, shipping, handling $12 for my 4 stroke husky weedeater. Most new carbs run twice that amount. Just got it yesterday, looks just like the old carb. Hope it works.
George
 
One thing to keep in mind - sometimes they burn out - and sometimes they get stuck - but often for the same reason -

yeah some do get old and die - but often bad connections (or a bad starter) force the starting circuit to draw extra current.

the solenoid/relay parts - just like anything else - heat up more when more current is pulled through them.

That can lead to failure or relay sticking.

so - fixing or replacing a relay is sometimes only a temporary fix...

Always good to check the whole circuit - worn starter motor - bad ground connections - frayed battery cables - bad batter connections...
 
Hello 36 coupe,

Would have been nice if I added the picture of the box! Here it is ...........Guido.
a108690.jpg
 
Best to use a battery when testing solenoids.You get an inductive kick back when the coil circuit opens.A few fellows found they popped the diodes in battery chargers testing ignition coils.DC welders have surge protection across diodes.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top