Newbie welding questions

William Fissell · Mar 16, 2013

Hello,

I've been trying to learn basic SMAW using a Lincoln AC/DC buzz box and 3/32 6013 rod. I have some 3/16 mild steel to practiceon. I can lay a pretty smooth bead on the scrap.

When I try welding two things together, it all falls apart, so to speak. For example, I am trying to weld a mild steel patch on a cast still (iron) part, I bring both shiny bright, and then tack the patch down. I try to lay a bead and I get a lot of spatter and slag inclusions. I pretty Boucher spent all day welding, grinding the weld down, and welding again.

I started at about 75 amps DC - and blew a hole through the casting... Whoops! At lower setting I get a smoother bead, but still have trouble with inclusions and undercutting. E

I tried DC + and AC no noticeable change.

Suggestions about what I am doing wrong?

Thanks in advance!

Bill

Don-Wi · Mar 16, 2013

The problem is the cast iron. To weld Cast, it's not as simple as grabbing a rod of 6013 and going to town. You need either Ni rod or cast iron rod (Stainless would work too), but those options are expensive so not always practical. Cast iron also needs a pre-heat to bring it up to about 400, and then at the very least a slow cool by wrapping it in a welding blanket or burying it in warm sand (a post-heat step would be better). Cast can and will crack if not welded properly.

If welding a crack, it's also a good idea to drill out the end of the crack so it won't keep spreading.

Many others on here can give more advise.

The basics are, you can't weld cast iron with 6013. 7018 has given some people better results, but your milage may vary.

Donovan from Wisconsin

William Fissell · Mar 16, 2013

Thanks, I had thought the problem was later stress relief and
cracking, which shouldn't be a real problem for my particular
part. Is the substrate metal also causing the crummy weld
quality?
Thanks,

IrvIA · Mar 16, 2013

It depends on the cast. Some of its good and some isn't. Exhaust manifolds are always a bear to do....full of impurities and brittle.
Like was said, nickel is best for cast but spendy.

William Fissell · Mar 16, 2013

The repair part is a cast cap for a Dearborn 10-80 plow bearing box. I'll probably pay someone (TOH) to turn a replacement,but thought I'd fool around trying to patch it first.

On a grinder the sparks are short, orange, and burst into little sparks about 12-14 inches from the grinder, so I assume its cast iron.

Tony S. · Mar 16, 2013

There are some pretty good cast rods. Expensive, though. Preheat the material, cool slowly. 6013 is a pretty useless rod for general purpose welding. 6010, 6011, 7018 much more versatile.

Anonymous-0 · Mar 17, 2013

You need to learn how to weld real basic stuff before you get into doing more specialized jobs like cast iron. You did good by getting a DC welder. Do even better and get rid of the 6013 rods! 7014 is a much better choice and welds about the same with a lot less problems. The best rods for you to practice with however are 6010/6011(very similar) for deepest penetration and welding dirty or rusty steel and doing downhand welds with decent strength. The other rod to get good at burning is 7018. Of the 4 basic types of rods it is the most versatile and strongest. It takes a little more practice but if you get it figured out, it IS the go to rod for anything you want to be as strong as possible. This of course does not apply to specialty type alloys that require specialty rods.

William Fissell · Mar 17, 2013

Hi, All,

thanks for the great comments and help; I'll keep at learning.

Bill

johnlobb · Mar 17, 2013

There are many variables to stick welding. Rod angle, travel speed, arc length, amperage and type of rods all affect the weld. Buy yourself a basic welding manual or check out some youtube videos. Good luck from an old Nuclear welder.

Loosehandle · Mar 17, 2013

Go back to your practice peices and ues the 6011like the others say,but I would recommend 1/8" rod set around a hundred amps for 3/16" material

RodinNS · Mar 17, 2013

If you're welding iron to mild steel the rod you want is the Sodel 35. Probably about 60 bucks per pound these days. If the part is not subject to serious heat you could also braze it. Welding could also be quite tricky if it's got some intricate shapes... It could easily crack while cooling.

Rod

Newbie welding questions

William Fissell

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Don-Wi

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William Fissell

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IrvIA

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William Fissell

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Tony S.

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William Fissell

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johnlobb

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Loosehandle

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RodinNS

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