You need to look up Air hardening steel, water hardening steel and oil hardening steel. All tool steels. I don't think you was testing mild steel in shop class. You can find tempering charts on line. Hot roll steel with surface hard where you torch cut. I buy 2" and 3" thick burnouts that take carbide to clean up the torch marks. After it is clean it is soft. When I take tool steel to heat treat they need to know what steel it is to know how to harden it as well as how hard I need it when done.
Re: School me on Quench Temper in reply to Dick L, 03-16-2013 14:21:28
I too, have machined many burn-outs in die sets which were made of hot roll. Sometimes they were soft, sometimes hard. The only logic I could come up with was flame adjustment. Carburizing = hard and oxidizing = soft.
Just one of my many unproven theories......
Maybe Lanse could make a video to prove/disprove my theory ??
Re: School me on Quench Temper in reply to Eric in IL, 03-16-2013 15:41:57
Some of today's mild steels will harden... guessing it has to do with what was in the recycle pot that day. One trick for hardening is to use a magnet to check temperature. When it doesn't stick anymore quench the piece. Old spring stock and files make good material for homebrew tools.
Re: School me on Quench Temper in reply to moresmoke, 03-16-2013 17:00:38
Mild steel(1018 through 1030) will not harden. It has to have enough carbon or alloying element to harden. Springs are normally 1085 steel which is not mild steel. When remelting scrap they add whatever is needed to make it a particular alloy.
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