OT: Roofing suggestions?

IaLeo

Well-known Member
Must replace asphalt shingles on 13 year old house.
Shingle company paid a warranty claim. Facts: 5/12 pitch, abt 27 squares, no valleys, rural, exposed to winds. Being quoted metal and asphalt.Insurance agent says he will reduce home ins. by $200/year if I use 50 year (class 4?)asphalt or metal.

Am leaning toward lower cost asphalt. Is there anything extra to put down besides standard roll black stuff under new asphalt for insulation qualities or ?? Will strip old one layer and old paper and start over. Double paper? Thin foam plastic?

I will probably sell in ten years and don't want the cost of making a roof so good that the next owner will never have to replace the roof as I suspect I will never get the cost back when I sell.

Thanks for reading. Leo
 
Cheap shingles might not last 10 years! I think a good roof helps sell a house, I would probably go with steel but it depends on the house and neighborhood.
 
I'm with Russ on buying the good roof. I would not consider a house with an iffy roof without making the seller replace it. Most lenders won't. Even if your paperwork says it was replaced 10 years ago, it still has to pass inspection. Way cheaper to spend a little now than have to do it all over again in 10!
 
Definitely not a cheap fix. Your investment in a longer life roof will more than pay for itself if you sell in 10 years, however I'm not convinced of a 50 year job under your circumstances. As far as metal it is a personal choice. I don't like metal on a gable end ranch style home, but that is my personal view. I think they look great on a 2 story or multi roof home. Just my opinion.
 
If you are in an area that has snow or freezing temps new code requires Ice Shield from eave to 3 feet past outside wall, then regular paper the rest of the way up. Real sticky rubbery stuff, has backing paper like on double sticky tape on one side. Supposed to seal to deck & prevent leakage in case of ice dams at eave.
Willie
 
They make a steel SHINGLE roofing that goes over existing roofing. Neighbor has it on his home. Looks somewhat like conventional shingles. Is applied somewhat the same way.... Really looks pretty good, not like an old barn roof on the house. He installed it himself with apparently minimum trouble. If I remember right, a 50 year warranty.

Now, a note about warranties - got this from a long time roofing contractor. Apparently many roofing manufacturers sell out, reorganize every few years. Change brand names. That way, when you have warranty issues a few years down the pike, they"re no longer around, and there"s no one to back the warranty.
 
I lived that experience. In '72 I had Certanteed 30 year shingles put on a new 2nd story urban home and when I sold it in 2005, there was no issue about the roof. Never leaked, not leaking then, all shingles in place, with decent grit covering. So I had the same brand 30 year put on this new rural home and in about 10 years they started curling, fracturing, but not leaking yet.
I agree with others that a good looking newer roof sells the house but there is a limit somewhere to providing some one else a bargain when you have the buyer, real estate agent, lender and occasionally the inspectors working against one's pocket book.

Yes I am having a steel "shingle" quoted, probably with the revered, pricey standing seam metal.

This roof will be a highly visible "curb appeal" on this particular house and it will look like yet another machine shed, pole building or "tarted"-up old house....not that attractive IMO

I might just put aside some money for a new roof for the buyer, that way I will kill two birds with one bale of hay....giving them essentially the money down to buy...if only I could keep that cash away from the real estate agents take..we would both win.

Leo
 
My opinion - sell yourself, and keep the real estate agents out of it if you can. But I know it all depends on the area, and market. I have lived both scenarios......one where I listed with a real estate agent, and they sold the house easily in a month for asking price, then another where it sat listed for about 2 years, mostly because there was no market, and the real estate agents refused to lower their commissions to help sell. I ended up letting listing expire, then selling myself for a little less money, but was still a hard sell due to the area it was in (an hour from everywhere).
 
Seeing as how they don't make T-Lock shingles anymore, you are just wasting your time putting asphalt shingles back on. I see more new houses with the shingles blown off.
 
this will probably be required to be installed by certified installer to get the warranty.
you are looking to save $2000 in lower ins. over the ten years but at what cost for the additional class 4?
 
Why are the shingles junk after 13 years?
Most shingles last 20+ years.
Too Hot? No ice shield?
 
The shingles were made with a new "greener" formula than the older asphalt shingles. Their "oops". Shingles curling, cracking. The company paid a settlement claim, making it easy and worth my trouble. Of course, no where near the original cost + labor nor that of today. I had 10 years use!
Just like the old steel belted radial tires of years ago, you could get just enough "warranty" to make it cheaper to buy their same tire than another brand. The belts wouldn't stay put long enought to wear out the tread. Changed to Michelins thirty years ago and that brand ran as they said they would.
 
No, warranty paid, no strings. Looking at near $6K for stripping and new asphalt (with real aspalt and maybe rubber) and near $10K for common steel (ribbed) that looks like 99% of pole buildings, but stripping includes another layer of sheathing for better screw holding, I guess. Leo
 
That idea is being quoted, sample DECRA looks very good. Bet the cost is outasight! Leo
 
All the shingle companies tried a new "better" way of making theirs and they got burned. That's why they curled after a few years. They are supposed to have corrected the problems and I think they have. The ones we have put on in the last 8 years look as good as the day we put them on. Certainteed was mentioned and they did have a lot of bad ones out there. Their new ones are much improved with a good warranty. I would recommend going with their Landmark series of laminated ones. $96 a sq. locally for just the shingles. Local codes will determine if you need the ice shield or not. With the energy efficient trusses used in newer homes now the ice build up isn't much of an issue but code still says you have to have it. If your selling in 10 yrs. that's a long time to try to be planning for what a new buyer wants. He may turn his nose up at the steel even thought it is better. Ask an insurance adjuster what he recommends for replacement brands. Around here they all say the Certanteed hold up the best. Here is a link to Certanteed's warranties.
shingle warranty
 
decras run about 2.5 times higher than 15 year asphalt. If you are under the age of 60 put on Decras?? Buy the time you put asphalt on the 2nd time the decras will look cheap!!!!LABOR AND MATERIALS ARE NOT GETTING CHEAPER!!!!!!
 
I've put down a lot of three-tab shingles in the past, but the cost difference between 25 year three-tabs and 30 year architectural shingles is so small anymore it makes no sense to go cheap. Architectural shingles are the way to go, and look 1000 percent better, especially on any roof with very much pitch.

It's good that your insurance agent says he'll cut your rates by 200 bucks a year, but how long is that promise good for? If it costs you a thousand bucks to go with 50 year roofing, and the company jacks your rates back up after one year, you just ate 800 bucks. I'm not saying that 50 year shingles are a bad deal, but don't figure in the insurance savings after the first year. Even with 30 year shingles, chances are the next roofing job is going to be somebody else's problem. The higher-rated shingles typically look a little better than the cheaper ones, but not enough to justify a big expense. As for steel, well there are some very nice steel roofing systems, but not everybody wants a steel roof.

For underlayment, you need "ice dam" rubber underlayment along the eaves. You can cover your whole roof with the stuff, but it's a waste of money. Regular 15 lb roofing felt will do just fine. If the sheathing is in poor shape, put layer of 7/16" OSB over the old sheathing. The extra thickness will hold nails much better.
 
I think the color is almost as important as the quality of shingles. Putting a black roof on a house generates massive amounts of heat that quickly ages the shingles, the plywood and the tar paper. I've seen cheap "Shasta White" 20 year shingles last 30 years and still look somewhat decent while a similarly rated black roof is shot in 10 years.

I put a medium gray 30 year shingle on my roof 10 years ago - I've has several small issues with shingles flapping in the wind - the roof was shingled early winter and didn't seal down all that well. It took about 7 trips with a couple tubes of asphalt to get them glued down.
 
Get steel. You think you may sell in 10 years, but you don't know that. Either get steel or put on the best shingles you can afford. It's cheap in the long run.
 

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