Need some Curtis air compressor help!!!

JD Seller

Well-known Member
I bought a used Curtis air compressor last fall. Had an accident while hauling it home. It upset on the truck an some of the fittings and such got broken. I need to find a parts break down on this compressor. What makes it different than my other Curtis compressors is that it seems to have a high pressure safety disengagement clutch. This is an electric compressor. It had a small Air cylinder that bolted to the compressor head and the plunger worked an arm that goes to a clutch on the drive pulley. This piston/assemble got broken when it fell over.

I really do not see the need for it if you have a pressure control switch and a safety pop off valve.

I have not been able to find anything out by searching the Internet on this model.

It is a Curtis up right tank, two stage, 5 Hp, 220 volt, 120 gallon tank compressor. There is a tag on the compressor. The model number is CQ969B. Then it has 30 x 47-120 gal in another box on the tag.

I need to figure this out as it is taking up shop space. If it is not repairable then I want to move it along. The 5 hp motor is worth what I gave for the whole compressor.
 
http://nnalert/doc/98915445/Curtis-Toledo-Masterline-Compressor-Manual

http://accessorieaircompressor.thomasnet.com/item/curtis-piston-compressors/masterline-cr-25-series-air-compressors/cq-969a

http://www.aishouston.com/images/curtis/catalogs/catalog.pdf
 
(quoted from post at 02:59:05 02/08/13) I bought a used Curtis air compressor last fall. Had an accident while hauling it home. It upset on the truck an some of the fittings and such got broken. I need to find a parts break down on this compressor. What makes it different than my other Curtis compressors is that it seems to have a high pressure safety disengagement clutch. This is an electric compressor. It had a small Air cylinder that bolted to the compressor head and the plunger worked an arm that goes to a clutch on the drive pulley. This piston/assemble got broken when it fell over.

I really do not see the need for it if you have a pressure control switch and a safety pop off valve.

I have not been able to find anything out by searching the Internet on this model.

It is a Curtis up right tank, two stage, 5 Hp, 220 volt, 120 gallon tank compressor. There is a tag on the compressor. The model number is CQ969B. Then it has 30 x 47-120 gal in another box on the tag.

I need to figure this out as it is taking up shop space. If it is not repairable then I want to move it along. The 5 hp motor is worth what I gave for the whole compressor.
have a very old Curtis and it has mechanical assemblies sounding somewhat like you describe, HOWEVER, what is does on mine is different than your 'clutch' description. There are spring held fly weights in the pulley (think centrifugal switch in an electric motor or mech governor)and as it starts & comes up to speed, the weights swing out, actuating the rod/lever going up to the "air cylinder" as you call it. This "air cylinder" on mine is an unloader valve and as speed is reached, it allows the pump to start pumping, whereas at stop or low start up, this mechanism is essentially a compression release allowing easy start load for motor.
 
Are you sure its not the flyballs for a centrifugal unloader rather than a clutch? The older units would unload by opening the valves on the head.

You can get most unloader parts or you can change it over to a pressure switch style unloader and abandon the existing one.

Some compressor that see heavy duty unload and load based on pressure setting and keep the motor running continuously similar to a gas compressor.
 
What you have is the most overbuilt unloading mechanism ever put on a reciprocating compressor. The flyweights in the wheel move in and out due to rotation of the wheel, which actuates the unloader mechanism through the linkage. It"s really no loss if this system is unsalvageable, as it was often the cause of more problems than the solution. Weights would stick, linkages would fall apart, or bind up, and generally it was another source of trouble and maintenance. If you can make the unloader on the cylinder head air tight, and remove all the fussy linkages, flyweights and springs, you can put a common pressure switch and needle valve type unloader on your machine and rest easy ***unless** this is one of those Curtis compressors that uses the high pressure exhaust valve as the check valve. In that case, you would need to install an in-tank check valve first, then plumb the unloader line from the switch to the check valve port. You will need to buy some Swagelock fittings and maybe cut and bend a little bit of copper tubing for a new discharge line, but its an easy job.
 

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