Furnace Help!

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I Have a Lennox hi-efficiency 15 year old furnace. it has a small purge blower that runs before the ingnitor fires. This morning of course before Church we wake up an no heat. The ignitor usually clicks up to 15 seconds before lighting. Today it is clicking only 2-3 seconds then stops trying before the flame can light. It has a blue ignition module box AND a main Circuit board that controls functions. I have a call out to furnace guy but its tough on Sunday. Any help would be Great. I am going to some sites but dont see anything good for help, so I thought I would throw it out there, since you helped me out with my well problem.
 
Check the condensate pump, then follow instructions for resetting furnace. Also the control module will may have some led lamps that flash a trouble code that may narrow down the issue.
 
I had a similar problem a couple of years ago (memory deficiency) with my Heil furnace. It turned out to be the electronic gas valve itself. Ouch...... In the neighborhood of $400. Good Luck.
 
I had the same problem on my 21 year old unit. Had to replace the circuit board in the blower box down below. 180 plus the service call.
 
(quoted from post at 11:52:27 01/13/13) I Have a Lennox hi-efficiency 15 year old furnace. it has a small purge blower that runs before the ingnitor fires. This morning of course before Church we wake up an no heat. The ignitor usually clicks up to 15 seconds before lighting. Today it is clicking only 2-3 seconds then stops trying before the flame can light. It has a blue ignition module box AND a main Circuit board that controls functions. I have a call out to furnace guy but its tough on Sunday. Any help would be Great. I am going to some sites but dont see anything good for help, so I thought I would throw it out there, since you helped me out with my well problem.
held on with a spring clamp on the line leading to the condensate drain pump remove, and clean out and let moisture drain out of hose.
 
That blower is the draft inducer, and it creates the draft necessary for the very cool combustion products of a high efficiency furnace to exit your house via the PVC vent. I don't know where you live, but sometimes in cold weather, the vent will block from an ice accumulation, making the air flow switch in the furnace not make and preventing the furnace from firing, check the outlet. If it's clear, open the furnace, and you will see a tube running from the inducer housing to an air flow switch. Use a multimeter or test lit to prove that the switch is making. I'll bet your problem is somewhere in the vicinity.
 
The suggestion on the trouble code lights is spot on. The furnace is sensing a failure in the event chain leading up to ignition "go". After you get the trouble codes google them along with your Lennox furnace model. Trust me you are not alone on this and there will be help available. In some cases you will find YouTube videos that are very helpful.

There are pressure sensors that are used to sense the gas purge flow from the fan/draft inducer. These must feel the fan in order to let the gas valve open. The sensors are not that expensive and are easy to replace. There are tubes that go from the fan to the sensors and they could be loose.

The draft inducer could very well be the culprit. Make sure that the inducer is running at full speed with no bearing squeal.

I recently trouble shooted my daughter's 6 year old Goodman furnace and the code was telling us that the pressure sensors had failed. It turned out that the sensors were ok but the draft inducer was not running at full speed due to a bad bearing. Penetrating oil got it running for a few days while we ordered a new inducer (about $110.00). A simple 15 minute installation and it was like new again.

One thing I discovered was that Goodman somehow won't replace the draft inducer under their 10 year parts warranty. I don't think I will ever buy one of their furnaces.
 
Good suggestion. It also has to be completely clear, not just part way. A few yrs ago, our hi-eff furnace did the same thing. Line appeared to be clear but turned out that snow had covered over part of the pipe, then turned to ice farther down. I had to take it apart and run a shop vac into that line for about 30 min before it all melted.
 
I don't know anything about furnaces and cannot answer your question but I have never had any trouble getting furnace repair help at any time as we pay Consumers Energy $10.99 a month which they include in our monthly bill for "furnace care". They are on call 24 hours a day, 7 days a week and have always come within 3 or 4 hours of my calling them. The cost covers all parts and service. They have replaced the purging fan, the heat circulating fan, the electronic ignitor, some kind of an expensive relay, and a few other things on my 20-year old 90% efficient gas furnace. They have gotten to know my furnace through at least 5 service calls. We have been paying for this service for at least 8 years which started at $7.99 a month. I suspect we have gotten our money's worth from this insurance program. I like the program because I know they will be here shortly and I know what what my cost is which is always unknown when you call a furnace repair company.
 
I have a Ruud and our daughter has a Rheem 90%
furnace and they use an ignitor that has 120vac volts fed to them. The ignitor has failed on my daughter's. I bought a spare some years ago in case mine failed. My neighbor has a Reem and
his ignitor failed on a Sunday. Called a service man and it was the ignitor cost him $200.00. Hal
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i agree with el toro...mine does that seems like every two years. its that thing in his pic...you can do it yourself but never touch the ignitor area at all. of course, the other folks have experiences also.
 
Last fall I had a similar problem. The furnace would try to start, but never ignite. Furnace code showed blower problem. I ran a flashlight on a stick into the outlet pipe. Found a bird's nest in the exhaust. Cut pipe and removed nest. Still would not work. Ended up taking the blower fan apart. Found the baby birds. Cleaned it all up and put everything back together. Works great. I added a screen to the exhaust pipe so that this does not happen again.

Cliff(VA)
 
sounds like u have a G26 series furnace that came out with a Johnson control ignition module if this is a spark ignition the only thing you can do is replace the ignition assembly. Honeywell makes a universal sprk type ignition that will work well for you if you can find one. I am a Lennox Dealer so if you have more questions let me know
 
Not wanting to hyjack anyones post, but seeing you are a Lennox dealer, I also have have a Pulse furnace Model G 1403-80-2 Ser # 5883 H 12854 . My ignighter (spark Plug) has rust formed on the end of the threads and I am unable to fully remove it from chamber to replace with new spark plug. Do you have any recomendations for removing without causing damage to exhaust chamber threads. Any assistance on this would be greatly appreciated as it was 34 degrees in my bedroom this morning. Thank You for any help you might suggest.
 
check this... I had three of my friends have the same problem, the line gets clogged, frozen, and backed up and it will do exactly what you describe.

I am not an expert, but I would make sure the lines are all clear before calling someone...
 
I would treat it like a spark plug in a car. Soak it in PB blaster and keep moving it a little at a time.Maybe it will loosen it up.
 
If it ain"t broke don"t fix it. After years of use those spark plugs are impossible to remove without destroying the heat exchanger. Sounds like you already tried as you have no heat. The alternative is either a new heat exchanger or new furnace.
 
there is a special tool made to remove those plugs but if you were able to get on it with a wrench and get the plug to turn and its not coming out its toast the threads are striped and the heat exchanger is shot probobly not what you are wanting to hear.by the model number you gave this is one of the earlier pulse furnaces so it has some age on it. Heat exchangers are no longer available for those furnaces. I would guess that that was made around 1983 so i would look for another furnace
 

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