Peeling Clearcoat

Slowpoke

Well-known Member

I have a '90 Chevy full size van with clearcoat on the front that's peeling badly. Some time ago there was a post about someone polishing/removing the bad clearcoat on a vehicle, but I can't find it. Can someone say where it is?
Thanks,
Slowpoke
 
last month I had that problem on a 95 ford 150. I ran it thru a local shop, and got it in perfect mechanical shape, scheduled a body shop for the last of jan, to get the hood and cabroof repainted,then on dec 24 I took an elk broadside across the grill, and solved the paint problem. paid $300.00 tow bill, sent title to tow company, and canceled the body shop.
 
It was probably a water based clear. There is nothing anyone can do with a pealing clearcoat but to refinish the car. If you peal off what is loose and add clear to that spot then next month another spot will pop up. There would be no end to it.
 
we did a lot of the de-lams here at the shop. real common problem. too much time elapsed on the assembly line between base/clear operations and had adhesion problems. if you have a good size air compressor, use a male and female air chuck fitting and screw them together, than snap that on to your air hose for a large bore air blower. it should knock most all the old clear off. a good quality duck tape can also be applied to pull off the clear. or a high pressure washer. once all the clear is removed, d/a sand with 320 lightly to clean everything up, thenwet sand with 400, wax and grease remover/tack rag it/ then 2 coats of base/then a couple coats of clear. you factory base coat should still have good adhesion. some guys will use a sealer over the old basecoat, but if its still solid, i dont see the need. i would use either a ppg or r-m base clear. not dupont.
 
(quoted from post at 16:54:20 01/05/13) we did a lot of the de-lams here at the shop. real common problem. too much time elapsed on the assembly line between base/clear operations and had adhesion problems. if you have a good size air compressor, use a male and female air chuck fitting and screw them together, than snap that on to your air hose for a large bore air blower. it should knock most all the old clear off. a good quality duck tape can also be applied to pull off the clear. or a high pressure washer. once all the clear is removed, d/a sand with 320 lightly to clean everything up, thenwet sand with 400, wax and grease remover/tack rag it/ then 2 coats of base/then a couple coats of clear. you factory base coat should still have good adhesion. some guys will use a sealer over the old basecoat, but if its still solid, i dont see the need. i would use either a ppg or r-m base clear. not dupont.

I agree. Sometimes it's trial and error. Not all delamination adheres the same, also depending on manufacture. I had some jobs that the clear would come off with a razor blade in a razor blade scraper tool. Then DA the basecoat. They were all a pain in the ___!
 
glennster, thanks for giving me hope and info that I can do it. It's mostly the front end, hood and on a decal stripe along the bottom of the hood. Is there a place that sells the stripes for a '90 van? The original will probably get messed up.
 
The factory stripe is nla. Go to a body shop supply and see if you can match up the stripe, or get something as close as you can. Otherwise you will need to take an eraser wheel to remove all the stripe and re stripe with what ever is avaliable.
 
You might try a Dealer Services Vender...you know-the guys who do used car lot sevices like touch up and striping. Some times they can duplicate factory stripes. They can be pretty creative. Ask a dealer who they use, or try the yellow pages under 'Dealer Services', Auto Detailing, or Auto Customizing. I had a guy make up stripes for an old Mustang Cobra that were no longer available.
 

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