Plan B Load tester?

Geo-TH,In

Well-known Member
I have a cheap HF 100 amp load tester. I want to get a different one like those used at the dealer. They were able to measure the CCA. My battery is rated at 700 CCA and they said my car battery is down to 465 CCA. It still starts the car just fine.

I have about 20 batteries. My plan is to get a base line as to each batteries condition and then see just how much good the batteryminder really is. I have never been a fan of fast charging a battery, but I might give it a try.

I would still like to know what charger you use to desulfate your batteries with.

My battery minder is always connected to one of my batteries. I do my best to keep all my batteries topped off.

So who has a digital load tester? What brand?

George
 
You really do amaze me with the plans that you come up with. It makes me smile. I just replace them when they fail, or every 3 years on my commercial vehicles.
 
Hello George Marsh,
Battery testing does take a special tester. The tester has to have the capacity to load the battery. The battery, after is FULLY CHARGED, is loaded at 1/2 its rated CCA. SO..............you need a tester capable to do that.A voltage reading on a battery without a temperature stated is not very accurate.Your 700 CCA battery will produce only 595 CCA when FULLY CHARGED @32 degrees F.The same battery (700 CCA) will produce 455 CCA.@ 0 degrees F.Cold Crancking Rating is the capability of a battery to crank an engine while maintaining a terminal voltag of 7.2V or 1.2 Volts per cell.When a battery fails the above testing standards,like a worn tire...........replace it.


Guido.
 
I have a Sun that was used to check the bats on the mayflower Paid $5 for it at a auction,,, it will bring a bat to its knees,,, I also have a Christye somewhere in the old shop paid $450 for it,,, parked it after I got the Sun... Both will load at least 500amps 8) ... In my opinion you need to have the capability to load at least 500 amps to cover most of whats out their....

My general rule on most common fully charged auto battery's...

load 200 amps for 15 sec. if the bat voltage stays above 9.6V its very good,,, you are good to go, life's good...

If it falls between 9.1 and 9.5 its worn but useable don't hesitate to replace it if you feel the starters not cranking as it should... If it makes you feel good replace it you are ruining on borrowed time...

Anything under 9V the bats history...
 
I got one from my snap on dealer, it was pricey ($300, IIRC), but well worth it IMHO, when some batteries I have are approaching $200. It hits the battery with one load, and then another random load, and measures the battery's response. Also is a volt meter, and tells both cca and voltage, and if the battery has a bad cell, in the display. Don't have a part # for you, it's down the shop, sorry.
 
George, down below you asked about my Xantrex Truecharge2 automatic smart 3 stage charger

NO you DO NOT have to leave it on all the time, it automatically cycles through the initial 3 stages of Bulk,,,,,,Absorption,,,,,and then backs off to Float mode (once fully charged) and then you can remove it. Of course, if you want to utilize its Equalize feature to reduce sulfation its on and charges at very high voltage (like 16) for a short period to shock and rid the plates of excess sulfation (spelling???)

Do a Google search for Xantrex Truecharge2 Smart Charger for more info and specs, thats about all I have for ya now. Like I said I havent had mine that long but my buddies batteries lasted like 9 years using that charger. It has a series of charge indication LED's and you see it start at high charge (which voltmeter indicates) then slowlllllllllyyyyyyyyyyy reduce the charge

They are $350 to under $500 but if you want precise control and 3 or more stages, precise computer control and Equalize function and sulfation reduction, they arent cheap,,,,,, I have a small fortune invested in my batteries and I aim them to last. Ive used the regular cheap loud noisy buzzing poor regulated and poor controlled OEM converter chargers RV's come with and have ruined batteries with them grrrrr grrrrrrrrr

John T
 

I hammer bats hard with a charger I can tell most of the time the health of a bat by what it will take from my charger... I am not sure what a slow charge will tell me... If you can tell me I would like to know... This is not a challenge I just can not see what a slow charge will tell you in a short time...

You pull up to my door and have a alt/starter issue,,, the bats down I hang my charger on the bat it takes a 20 to 60 amp charge no funky odor from the bat I know the bats liking this (that's what bats like) I know its possible the bats good but still needs to be tested if I can get 20 min of arse kick'n charge on it...

If my amp reading is zero to 20amps I suspect the bat are terminal connections... Any yucky Oder I flag that bat i am not wasting my time,,, wearing my charger out are sending Christmas cheer to the power company...

Keep in mind I have determined the bat is down on it luck with a load tester and volt meter....
 
Hello Hobo,NC

Sounds like you have done some testing.
Testing a battery with a load tester though is done at 1/2 its rated CCA.
The 15 sec, and 9.6 volts are the correct values as you stated.

Guido.
 

Hello ASEguy
YEP! that is the tool. I guess dome people are looking for a magic bullet.
VAT40 will do the job just fine!
Guido.
 
(quoted from post at 08:24:12 12/23/12) Hello Hobo,NC

Sounds like you have done some testing.
Testing a battery with a load tester though is done at 1/2 its rated CCA.
The 15 sec, and 9.6 volts are the correct values as you stated.

Guido.

40 years worth and I did not learn over night... My issue with Testing a battery with a load tester at 1/2 its rated CCA (even tho that's the way to do it). When you get a Vehicle that a starter is going bad and will not show up in the shop I like to use starter amp draw as my load test then if it passes I am thinking starter... I will admit I occasionally get beat :evil:... Money, time, convenience and convincing stand in the way and you replace a good battery from time to time before you go after the dreaded starter...

Another good reason to get a REAL load tester not a 100Amp toy that's better than nuttin tho (add in a amp clamp) is you can master the most common starter/charging system issues...

Why I do not reuse a condemned bat in my tractors..



http://www.searchautoparts.com/motorage/motor-age-garage/starting-charging-system-scope-analysis

I wish we all had a 100% kill rate but we don't you will get beat from time to time... Money, time, convenience and convincing stand in the way to often....

I am a die hard load tester Old School its still a judgement call...

http://www.searchautoparts.com/moto.../battery-starting-charging-system-maintenance
 
JohnT,

It sounds a lot like my BatteryMinder 12248 with the exception it can operate on a range of input voltages and frequencies, like those from an RV generator.

Sounds to me like all the chargers may try to slow down the aging process, but may not be the fountain of youth. When your battery's number is up, it's up.

I plan to use my batteryminder on the car and see what the dealer says about it's condition the next time I have an oil change, unless it dies in the mean time.

Is this the charger you are talking about?


George
http://www.starmarinedepot.com/Xantrex Truecharge2 Battery Charger 10A.html?gclid CPP4yPbgsLQCFYZaMgoddm8AAA
 
Half of my batteries are setting on a shelf over the winter. I need a way, other than using my 100a HF load tester, to load test them and not use the starter. Some are heavy duty deep cycle batteries for a trolling motor and dump trailer.

The dealer uses a small hand held unit that he can electronically measure the battery's condition. The first time he told me my truck battery was getting sick, he was right on. I take what the dealer says, then varify it.

I guess I'll have to ask my GMC dealer what kind of unit he uses. It's like a hand held computer device he punches in info and actually measures the CCA. The boys at Rural King have a similar device.
 
Could roll your own:
battery_load_tester_zps68ff34c7.jpg
 
It's too late Jessie, I've added the the computerized load tester to my bucket list. That's one tool I don't have. On a mission to find one.
 
JohnT,
Most golf cart chargers charge at 20 amps.

Going to guess if you have four 6 volt batteries, there are 2 sets of series batteries and the series circuits are put in parallel, making 12 volts total. SOOOOOO your 40 amp charger is charging each battery with 20 amps, which is the normal rate for golf cart chargers, right?
 
Hello George Marsh,
Here is my pick,NO.......... its not digital. The picture is self explainatory.
Guido.
a93602.jpg
 

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