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Adjust/square bandsaw blade

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I bought a used Buffalo horizontal band saw, put a new blade on tonight and did just one test cut and it cut less than square. Anything to adjust to correct this? It cut shorter/the blade went towards the clamp.

Thanks
 
It should have a set of 2 or 3 guide bearings that can be set so as to make the blade run more true and square. The guides also need to be as close to the metal your cutting as you can have them and yet not cause it not to be able to cut
 
If your machine cut nicely square with the old blade band, there may be something wrong with the new blade band. The lateral set of the teeth may not be symmetric. I do not think this can be practically remedied. Throw away and buy a better blade.
HTH, Hendrik
 
Both problems mentioned are correct. Setting the guide rollers can be tedious. You need to lay a square across the bed and up to the blade and a good light behind it so you can view the light between them. Remember the blade has a "set" to the teeth that makes them wider than the back. So with the square up against the teeth you should see light between it and the rest of the blade. You want that gap even. Then install a new QUALITY blade and it will cut square. Then try the old one and it it cuts crooked you know what to do with it. I got caught without a spare for my 7x11 saw a couple times and my experience with pre-packaged blades from the the hardware stores is dismal or worse. Go to one of the on-line tooling stores and have them make you up some bi-metal blades. Lennox, Morse and Starrett are all good brands.
 
The quality of the blades can very a lot. If you bought a cheaper blade to save money you may have just learned a lesson I learned a couple of times over. Of course I've gotten a couple of bad blades from quality suppliers too, but they always take them back and replace them.
 
If your saw cut straight before it's probly a bad blade. The quality of the blades can very a lot. If you bought a cheaper blade to save money you may have just learned a lesson I learned a couple of times over. Of course I've gotten a couple of bad blades from quality suppliers too, but they always take them back and replace them.
 
You can take the set out of one side of a quality bimetal blade if you crowd it. They need a little break in time when first put on as well. Last week I cut some 3 inch pre hard tool steel with an old blade that was off 1/4" top to bottom. I had force cut some steel a while back to hurry up a job.
 
Thanks Dick I always forget to mention that and it is important. To break in a new blade I use a piece of leadalloy round stock about 3" diameter and shave off a couple 1/4" disks with light pressure and lots of coolant. Forget who told me that, was it you? Anyway it adds measurably to blade life in shops cutting new steel. The best blade life increases in the average farm shop will come from NOT cutting rustly and welded junk in the saw and checking unknown parts with a file or hand saw prior to dropping the band saw on them and hearing SCREEEEEECH!!
Darned amazing what some people put in a powered saw and expect it to cut!!
 
Ya tell me about it. When I had three shifts six days a week here some times a blade changed one day was shot the next. Of course no one had used the saw since the new blade was put on. It just came with no teeth. Mold clamp allen bolts was more than likely the cause. Try the saw before using a cutoff wheel, might be faster.

Gotta be carefull here. DiyDave will pop in and tell me I am off topic again. :)^D
 
Wikus are very good blades as well. If there's a place around with a blade welder, don't throw out broken blades. They can often be re-welded a couple times until you run out of adjustment. If you have a couple short blades in still decent shape, you can make a long enough blade out of the 2 but with 2 welds. Always break in a new blade for the first few cuts. Run it with about half the normal feed rate.
 
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