Super C engine racing

My 1953 Super C has been unused the past year (due to a job far from home). My meadow grass is of course now taller than me. Home for awhile and intending to do some bushogging I did some basic maintenance (oil, lube, gas, battery, etc.) on it then fired up the Super C. It started up at a very full throttle even though the throttle lever was back. Moving the throttle had no effect.
In short, the engine is racing. I suspect something is wrong with the governor. The linkage from the throttle looks okay. I know very little about the governor concept. I see what looks like an adjusting nut and note there is a little wire seal on it. Should I break the seal and turn that nut? Someone told me there are magnets that spin inside the case. How long do those magnets last? Do I have a simple adjustment problem or is this a disassemble and repair issue? For the 20 years I have owned this unit I have had no major problems beyond flaking of the tire sidewalls.

It sounds stuck, that happens from setting. they do not get out adjustment from setting! if you are confident in your ability take the cover off and look for the problem. There are flyweights in there, not magnets. Maybe wait for more knowledgable advice!

Do this and it is a simple check. Grab the linkage from the carb to the gov and make sure it moves freely when the throttle is set at the slowest it will go. That linkage should move pretty easy and if pushed all the way open snap back to the idle position fast. If it does not move freely then that is where your problem is and the linkage need to be freed up so it moves easy

This isn't something you can adjust away. Like old says, they don't go out of adjustment just sitting.

I second trying to move the carburetor linkage as a test. It should move freely when the tractor isn't running. It should move then snap right back when the tractor is running,

As long as the linkages are free, a racing engine means the internal spring inside the governor has broken. It is not a difficult fix, but you do need to remove the governor housing.

There are six bolts holding the governor housing to the engine, one cotter key holding the throttle lever rod, and one more cotter key and pin holding the carburetor linkage.

Support the housing and don't let it fall. The timing gear and governor weights will stay in the engine unless you go totally caveman getting the housing out. Normally there's nothing wrong with the gear or weights.

The housing WILL come out without taking off the radiator. It's a little tight, but if you hold your tongue just right it will come right out. Just keep tipping and turning until you get it.

Once you get the housing off, you'll see a spring broken in two. You will need the OEM part from a CaseIH dealer to get the correct behavior from the governor.

I had a tractor with the same engine that was sitting awhile and when I got it going it started to run away rpms within seconds. Turns out the carb butterfly fell off and went down an intake runner. I picked it out and put it back in the carb and all was well, I guess it spit the screws out the exhaust. Funny because it ran fine when I used it last.

Throttle used to stick on my Super C in the winter. That was crud and moisture in the needle bearings on the long shaft across the frt on yhe gov.

I doubt it being that spring in the governor. That spring is moved by the throttle lever and if the spring is broken the throttle lever will not move the carburetor from idle. The one who posted to look to see if the shaft from the governor (enclosed in timing cover) is stuck. That is most likely the problem. I had a Cub to that and a lot of moving with a wrench and lots of penetrating oil got it freed up. The original problem was I installed a radiator with the overfloe tube being in the wrong place spewing water on the front timing cover.

That is most likely. See my post below