Log splitter engine hard to pull.

I haven't worked on small engines in years so I need a memory refresher...can't be that I'm getting old....

I have a 35t log splitter with a B&S 15.5 (whatever THAT means now! Ft Lbs?) engine. I did have to do some "reconstructive" work on it after my son forgot that you need to slow down for turns when you have a high center of gravity & a narrow wheel base but it didn't appear to affect the engine and I've used the splitter for several hours since. The biggest thing was replacing the broken fitting from the hydraulic valve to the cylinder.

It's been getting harder to pull since then. It used to spin right over (hand pull) but it almost broke a bone in my hand yesterday when it kicked back and the pull handle nailed me! Got a *nice* bruise and I normally don't bruise.

Any suggestions on a probable cause for becoming hard to pull? I haven't started taking parts off but I'm wondering if the flywheel key is partially sheared and it's thrown the timing just enough to cause the problem.

It still runs fine but I have noticed a slight difference in the engine tone - like the choke is still partially engaged. I've checked. It isn't.

I hate to just open equipment up without having an idea of what I'm looking for. We did that on routine inspection on turbines but this is on my dime and I don't want to take apart more than I need to!

Thanks for any info!
 
You probably hit the nail on the head with the flywheel key. Otherwise it could be a malfunctioning compression release.
 
It could also be the flywheel brake if it has one. Check to see if it rolls over easily with the spark plug removed. If it doesn't then the brake is suspect.
 
Driving a tractor and towing an implement, like he's driving a competion go-kart? You don't need that kind of help !!
 
Small consolation - he's 39 and rolled his new jet ski the same way. The log splitter cost him a new hitch and a hydraulic fitting.

The jet ski will probably cost him close to $2k to fix. I doubt he's believes he took the turn too fast though....just coincidence that they both rolled in the same turn 3 weeks apart....

Think I'll drag the splitter up to the shop before I start today. Thanks for the info, Guys!
 
Thanks! I'll look - being a splitter, I don't think it has a flywheel brake and it's about a 5 hp engine, I think so hopefully it doesn't have a compression release.
 
I have a 35 ton with a B&S 15.5 single cylinder engine that I bought new from TSC. Mine has allways pulled through hard from day one and have had it kicked back several times. Your right when it does kick back it rips the cord out of you hand.
 
Also make sure the rewind cover is not bent. That will make them pull hard if it has the old style rewind. If it hit real hard it could have broken the compression release weight off of the cam or maybe it stuck in the cam gear. A gasket set for the B&S engine is cheap. I would remove the rewind cover and flywheel. If you do not find anything wrong with it then take the crankcase apart. The compression release is a mechanical one and is easy to inspect visually.

Crazy thought. I wonder if the scopes, that you can get to look into a wall or such, would fit down the oil fill port??? Never tried it on a small engine. I have use mine on tractors. Mainly looking into the rear ends and such. Just a thought.

Truthfully I kind of think B&S are a throw away engine anymore. The quality is just not in the league with a good Honda or Kawasaki.
 
You are right on about it being the engine design, I too have one that really kicks back, its one of the early valve in head models.
 
Check the woodruff key as the timing may be off some. Hal
PS: I use to use my garden tractor when starting a 10 hp Tecumseh on my splitter. I also used it to start my old Toro rotary mower.
a86398.jpg
 
Had that problem on a B/S engine I got in a few days ago and it would not start but sure would kick back and get you. Found the flywheel key had been damaged so that causes the timing to be off just enough to kick back and make it hard to pull over. Replaced the key and all was good
 
Bud,
I have a 13 hp honda that is hard to start. Honda says it's an easy start, yea.

I also worked on a vertical shaft briggs 15.5 hp briggs for my termite man. He said it had a bad starter. Come to find out he had a dead battery. Replaced battery, engine was locked up. I removed spark plug and motor spun easily.

The problem was, if the exhaust valve clearance isn't spot on, the motor will have too much compression and the starter won't spin it over.

I adjusted the valves, problem solved.

Check valve clearance. You can find the setting on line.

George
 
Same machine, same supplier. This one always pulled easy and fired of with 1 or 2 pulls. It 'bout rips my fingers off now! Any chance you have a model number for your engine? I've found the series, the cc and the serial but no model number so I can pull up the manual for a schematic.

It's probably not necessary but having a pic is somewhat comforting when you're not real familiar with a motor. Thanks!
 
like the others say check the key, but also check the point gap while your in there. for some reason all of mine have gotten harder to pull the last twenty years or so.
 
Bud,
My honda is a pull start. Honda uses the exhaust valve as a decompression valve. The exhaust valve has to be spot on. During the compression stroke, the exhaust valve opens briefly.

I can tell you Briggs has to be spot on too or you can't crank them with a starter. So what makes a pull start Briggs any different?
George
 
These are made by SPeeco, for TSC as I think they're the only one with the Huskee brand.

Speeco did offer all of these or I thought when I last looked, with B&S or Honda. The 28 ton model I bought 2nd hand has a Honda GCR 190 in it, but I believe the speeco version could be had with a Honda 240, the one with the metal gas tank, painted white, the latter of which were always real easy to start work on and sure as heck are reliable too.

Thats why I opted to find one with a Honda, when you think about this kind of splitter, you really can build em or modify them to your liking, I'd like the 35 ton if it has a larger hydraulic reservoir, 16 GPM pump and a Honda engine, but the one I have now certainly does all I need and the GCR 190 not only starts easily, also is easy on fuel.
 
Hello Bud in WV,
If the engine has overhead valves, chances are they need to ge adjusted. .003 on the intake and .006 on the exhaust.
The compression release will not work properly when the valves are out of adjustment, making the engine hard to crank!
Make sure there is no load on the engine while you are pulling on it to get it started.
Guido.
 
Guido,
Totally agree, exhaust valve adj is critical. Decided to google briggs decompression valve. I know for a fact that honda uses the exhaust valve and cam for decompression. Wasn't sure that briggs did too. Here is what I found out.

There are two types, both on the camshaft. Lower HP (around 8HP or less) typically have a lobe with a bump on it that keeps a valve (often the exhaust) open at RPMS under 250, aiding in starting because the valve does not fully close)

Larger engines have a counterweight on the cam that swings "up" at the same RPMs are "removes" the high spot achieving the same affect as above.

The first time I was told to check the exhaust valve clearance on a hard to crank engine, I thought they were full of it. Come to find out, the small bump on the exhaust cam doesn't work if the exhaust valve isn't set to spec.

George
 
Pull start makes no difference. If it has OHV and the valves are out of adjustment, it will spin over hard with either recoil or electric start.
 
Hello George Marxh,
B$S has had "easy spin" starting for years!
The old system always had the exhaust valve openig even on the compression stroke. Even though it did so, it was a mere 1/200 of a second at 3600 R.P.M.'s. the exhaust valve stayed open 1/100 of a second at start up speed. Force required to start the engine was reduced by 50%, and would be noticed by wimps er people that had trouble starting an ordinary engine.
Now How do you check compression when you know that the engine has a compression release?
Guido.
 
Partial update. Got it apart and changed the flywheel key. No *apparent" damage but changed it anyway. Considering 2 of the motor mounting bolts were bent, it took a hit when it rolled.

It turns over much easier now...just gotta get the carb float/orifice/spring back in the bowl right. After a couple of hours on my knees on a concrete floor it's looking like I'll have to take it off the frame again to get to it.

I've had enough fun for one day, though and a neighbor is trying to ambush Bambi out back so it's an excuse to quit for the day. Thanks for all the info!
 
Hello Guido,

I don't worry about compression on a small engine. If it fires and runs, that good enough for me. Don't know how you would check it with compression release. I buy most of my small engines new, take care of them and don't have too many problems.

When briggs had 3.5 hp flat heads, I would have problems with exhaust and intake valve seat recession. Had to grind a little off the valve stem.

With overhead valves, I've had about 6 that needed the exhaust valve clearence tightened up.

Have a 20 hp kohler command with hyd valves. No problems at 1200 hours.

George
 
Hello George Marsh,
The old flat heads were prone to exhaust valves and seat burning.
To chech for compression on an engine with a compression release, you bump it the opposite direction of rotation.
If it kicks back the compression is good........................Now you know!
Guido.
 
Hello Guido,

I don't worry about compression on a small engine. If it fires and runs, that good enough for me. Don't know how you would check it with compression release. I buy most of my small engines new, take care of them and don't have too many problems.

When briggs had 3.5 hp flat heads, I would have problems with exhaust and intake valve seat recession. Had to grind a little off the valve stem.

With overhead valves, I've had about 6 that needed the exhaust valve clearence tightened up.

Have a 20 hp kohler command with hyd valves. No problems at 1200 hours.

George
 
I may be totally off base here, but are you sure it's the engine? Could your hydraulic control valve possibly be sticking creating back pressure on the engine thru it. You didn't mention having any problem till the turn over so I'm only assuming the engine valve clearance would still be OK. I've had the hyd. valve stick on mine with a Honda engine & made it awfully hard to pull till I put the control back in the neutral position. Just a thought, Keith
 

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