Update - Plugged drain - frost free hydrant

PJH

Well-known Member
Well, I had to dig up one hydrant to extend the water line to a new one, so I took it apart to see what was up. The rubber plug in the bottom has a "swelled" look to it. The top of the plug was blocking the drain hole by 1/8", and the diameter of the plug wouldn't allow it to be pulled from the valve like the repair instructions call for. I had to remove the brass valve body from the bottom of the standpipe to get the shut-off plug out, and then it still needed some unfriendly persuasion. The old plug measures 1 1/8" in diameter, and obviously won't fit through the 1" vertical pipe for removal. I found a repair kit for around $18, but I think I'm gonna go with a new hydrant and bet it will last the rest of my life. I'm curious if any of you guys have replaced the shutoff plug by unscrewing the top and pulling the top/rod/plug out. There's no way this plug would come through the 1" vertical pipe.

Thanks for all of your earlier suggestions.
Paul
 
Those hydrants are made with the rubber at the bottom different sizes to allow drainage. The handles and linkage wear and need adjustments. some have threads near the handle and some have set screws. I adjust mine by holding my wet hands under the faucet and hear a suction going back down to the bottom. Lots of times new ones won"t drain back.
 
I have pulled the rod and guts up though the top on Some new ones. BUT watch what you buy NOT ALL hyd. can be repaired by pulling everything up though the top!
 
Yeah - I adjusted this one every direction while I had the hole open and it was still under pressure, but it wouldn't drain. I poked a drill bit in the drain hole, thinking it might be limed up, and after getting it apart, I can see that it needed to be forced down more so the top would clear the drain hole, but I think something would have busted if I adjusted it any tighter. It needed a full 1/8" farther down to clear the drain hole. The rubber stop was deformed/swelled - maybe from old age?? Most of my experience with rubber would find it getting hard and brittle as it aged, but this thing was still soft.

I've got three more just like it that won't drain. When it quits raining I'm gonna tighten one of them down until it either drains, or busts something, ha.

Thanks again for the advice.
Paul
 
I am in the midst of this right now. The plug, for whatever reason, pulled off the brass end at the bottom. When you opened the faucet, it would run, but not alot, and it did shut off when you turned it off. I messed with it for a couple of hours trying to get the plug out, ended up digging out the hydrant. Bought a new one and will finish up the install tomorrow.

This one is only 4 ft total height (2 ft bury), would hate to have this happen to one buried six foot or so, in an area with a deep frost line.

Charles
 
(quoted from post at 16:29:00 10/05/12) Well, I had to dig up one hydrant to extend the water line to a new one, so I took it apart to see what was up. The rubber plug in the bottom has a "swelled" look to it. The top of the plug was blocking the drain hole by 1/8", and the diameter of the plug wouldn't allow it to be pulled from the valve like the repair instructions call for. I had to remove the brass valve body from the bottom of the standpipe to get the shut-off plug out, and then it still needed some unfriendly persuasion. The old plug measures 1 1/8" in diameter, and obviously won't fit through the 1" vertical pipe for removal. I found a repair kit for around $18, but I think I'm gonna go with a new hydrant and bet it will last the rest of my life. I'm curious if any of you guys have replaced the shutoff plug by unscrewing the top and pulling the top/rod/plug out. There's no way this plug would come through the 1" vertical pipe.

Thanks for all of your earlier suggestions.
Paul
Yup, done a number of them, with mixed success. Last one, I ended up putting a new hydrant in as the pipe had split which required digging it up. Got a replacement pipe and when I pulled the guts out through the top, found the rod was corroded and about ready to break. Figured since I had it dug up already, might as well just put a new hydrant in. I've never seen a "swollen" plug before, though.
 

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