Tractor tires

MF294-4

Member
Anyone change their own 20.8-38? Was told it was easier to put the wheel on the tractor first. We did that and it was easy to put on and line up. Thats where it ended. Two hours and we don't have the inside bead on yet.Got two foot to go. We have tried several things but no success. Looks like we need to colapse the sidewall that is on the wheel. I know guys can change these in minutes. Any suggestions other than getting a pro. I know how to do that. Hey maybe there is a youtube video on how haha.
 
I never change them on the tractor... but it shouldn't be too bad on a 38.
Get some tire soap (or even dish soap and water) and lube the back bead... work the bottom of the tire over the wheel, then get a couple bars and start working the upper part over the wheel, one bite at a time. A 38 should pop right on there. I've flat pushed a well greased 34 onto a wheel more than once...

Rod
 
First thing is to go buy regular tire lube. It is much more slick than dish soap and water or even straight soap.

I then always start at the top of the rim. I put the valve straight down while mounting. Then start the top of the inside bead on the rim. I then reach up on the inside and clamp a pair of vice grips on the rim. This will help hold the tire on the rim while you start to work the bead on. The advantage of starting at the top is that the weight of the tire is helping you mount the tire. You just work the tire on a little at a time. You do need good tire tools not a crow bar and leaf spring like you can do on smaller tires. I have Ken-tool long tire irons just for tractor tires. Also make sure you have the top of the bead back into the drop center far enough. If it is not then you will never get the bead on without damaging the tire/bead.

After you get the inside bead on then install the tube if you are using one. Again put the valve stem down. I start the top of the tube over the rim and work my way down. I put the stem in the rim after I have the tube on the rim all around. Then put a little air in the tube so it stands up a little. This will help you keep from pinching it under the bead.

Then start the top of the outside bead on the rim. I still use a pair of Vice grips to help hold the tire from sliding off. Clamp the rim with the handle sticking straight up. Then work your way around the tire. Make sure you have the top in the drop center WITHOUT the tube being under the bead.

On the one you are having trouble with. You do have the rim on with the short side of the drop center to the outside??? On some rims the drop center is not in the middle. You can only mount the tire from the short side not the longer side.

Also on a larger tire like a 20.8 x 38 I use the jack to raise and lower the tractor to help get the tire into the correct position.

I would take the tire back off and start over. You are doing some thing wrong for it to be so hard in getting on the rim. Email me and I will send you my ph# number.
 
As JDseller stated make sure the tire bead is in the drop center of the rim and take small bites with the tire irons. I did my rear tires off the tractor because I painted my rims inside and out. I just kneeled on the tires to keep the bead in the drop canter and used plenty of dish soap to lube the tire bead.
 
The drop is the same on both sides of the rim. We have some big tire irons and are using soap. Son is about to fold and call someone. With four of these to do, I don't think I can take it and I don't have any beer drinking buddies. Buddies and tires don't go together and not enough beer.
 
Dish soap, straight, is not slick enough to mount 20.8X38's as stated, get yourself some professional tire lube from a professional tire shop and use it straight, not mixed with water. Follow JDsellers post to the letter. In the 22 years I was in the farm tire business 20.8X38's tires were the hardest to mount.
 
Lay the tire over the drop, so that it's hanging on the rim. Using tire irons, get as much of it on the rim as you can easily. Then clamp a pair of vise-grips on the rim to hold the one side from slipping off, and work from the opposite side with your tire irons, one over the other. A bit of WD-40 or soap will help, and it will also help seal the bead. Get your tube in, and make sure it is not pinched anywhere, and clamp or secure the valve stem so it can't retract back into the tire area. Again using your tire irons and vise grips, repeat the procedure for the outside bead. If it tightens up, make sure the opposite side is in the wheel valley. But go out of your way to avoid pinching the tube. When you get the outer bead on, double check to make sure the tube is clear, and air it up enough to push the beads out to the wheel, then let it deflate. If you are using calcium or liquid, you're ready to put it in. If not, reinstall the valve and air it up.
 
there is not any thing bout tires that is easy !!!!!
if there was every body would be doing it .
clean it up lube it up and don't over inflate when airing it up .
are you going to load ?
 
(quoted from post at 07:31:32 10/04/12)
Murphy's Oil Soap, works for me.


Dusty

+1 best thing you are going to find without lots of searching.

Murphy's also makes a "tire grease" which you water down to make a regular tire lube. Ingredients read exactly the same as the soap, just more more concentrated. It works great for sealing leaking beads.

The key to the whole thing is to make sure you drop the bead into the drop center of the wheel.

I have some 12 ply 23.1-26s to do today, with they were 38s...
 
Just imagine if the rim wasn't anchored firmly to the tractor... You wouldn't be halfway to where you are now. You'd be trying to fight the rim AND the tire.

What's so tough about 20.8's though? I would think wide tire big rim it should be pretty easy.

Try jamming a 225-75R16 10 ply truck tire on to a 4" wide rim some time. THAT is work.
 
Some of the worst tires I've EVER changed were 10.00-16.5 skid steer tires. Actually these were 10 ply Firestone DuraForce radials with the heaviest bead protector I've ever seen... and hardly any drop on the wheel. The bead lip on the wheel will bend before the tire finally goes on.

16.5-16.1 floaters are also pure devils.

A 20.8-38 should be a walk in the park.

Rod
 
Try a 4.00 x 12tail wheel for a plow you would gladly take anything else nothing worse than changing one of them is having to do it twice because you pinch the tube the 1st time
 

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