AC vs DC Stick Welding, and Quenching Welds

Lanse

Well-known Member
Hey guys!!

So, this is what I've been up to lately... I started a YouTube series, and I just thought I'd share...

In one video, I welded 6011, 7014, and 7018 joints with AC and DC current and smashed them up, averaging out how many hits each type of weld took before it broke, and the results from that, defiantly weren't what I expected, but it sure was a fun test.

In the other, I tried to find out what quenching a hot weld will do to it, in terms of strength. There was a debate about that on another forum a little while back, where some said it would harden and heat-treat the weld, and others said it would weaken it, and infuse it with hydrogen making it brittle as all get out... As you might expect, those people were right, according to my redneck but highly scientifical professioneered tests...

Anyway, just wanted to share the videos. These might be the last "random" welding videos you see from me for a while, as over the last two days I've spent over $400 on steel for a variety of projects. Tired of not staying busy...

Hope you guys enjoy em, have a good rest of the week :)
video1 video2
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Hi Lanse,

Thanks for doing those videos. I enjoyed them a lot. You're getting to be quite the accomplished videographer. Keep at it and your career path could go off in an entirely different direction---probably more lucrative, and probably a lot more fun.

Stan
 
Generally you never quench a weld but on certain types of stainless steel if you quench the hot weld, it is a good thing as it anneals it.

If you do a 6010 full penetration groove weld (double bevel) and break it at 650 deg. it will show the grain structure in the weld. You need a tempilstick to check the temperature while the weld cools a little bit to 650 deg's. Lincoln rods will usually break in the middle of the weld and Hobart will break on the side of the plate. At least in the 80's when we did it in school. It was kind of neat to see. Make sure you have some good pliers or something to handle the hot piece.
 
OK! Enough of this playing around, :lol: when are you going to start doing some real testing? Like what it takes to get a welding job. :?
 
I"m with Puddles. Weld some plates and bend the coupons. That is the only good way to test a weld and it is great practice for getting certified and getting a job. We can"t find enough weldors in KC. The millwright work is blowing up, my shop will be working seven days a week before long. You may want to look into getting a job while the getting is good!
 
That's a structural test. You can do an open root
with no backing plate and bend them as well to test
your welding skills.
 
The last few years I worked it was getting quite common for structural weldors to take a 6-G open root pipe test, with 6-inch sch 80 pipe. Now I understand it is a given. Most fab shops will have you take the same test with SMAW, and GTAW just to get in the door.

awspipetest.jpg
 
The initial "B" pressure test here is on 6" sch.
80 pipe with 3/4 of it done in the 5G position
(bottom to top) The other quarter, 9 o'clock to 12
o'clock, is done in the 2G position (horizontal).
You have 4 hours to complete it which seems like a
lot but it really isn't. It is a test after all
and half the battle is getting over your nerves.
Every step from tacking has to be inspected before
you can continue. You can fail on your tacks.

The most common re-test is 2" double extra heavy
in the 6G position. This gives you your small bore
and heavy wall in the same test although if you
wanted, you could do a 6" pipe but it's very rare
anyone opts for that.
 

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