7018 welding rods/pita

Based upon the general concensus on this forum that the 7018 rod is the "best" rod to use, I bought a box of them. I was welding a carryall frame and using bright shiny metal. I have a Lincoln AC welder and had the heat on 120. I was really looking forward to using the 7018's as opposed to my old standby 6013's. Gosh, I must have been doing something wrong as those things gave me fits! They were constantly sticking...it was a nightmare getting an arc striked. They would quit right in the middle of a bead and I could not get an arc started back again. They were constantly sticking. I was welding regular 1/4 inch metal. I made sure my ground cable was grounded good. I'd switch back to my 6013 rod and it would weld beautifully. I'm sure it must have been me or something, but those things about made me lose my religion. I tried different heat settings......nothing worked. I'm not a professioonal welder, but I don't have too much stuff fall apart either after I weld it. Anybody got any answers? Based upon yesterdays experience, I'll never use those 7018's again. The slag the 7018 left was a pain to chip loose also. It was hard and looked like dried on white paint/chalk. NOrmally, the slag left from my 6013 peels right up like a banana peeling. I"m at a loss.
Each time the rod would "stick", it would peel about 1/2-1" of the coating off the rod. Could the rods have been old or defective? They were Hobart 7018 1/8 inch rods.
 
(quoted from post at 14:22:04 07/11/11) Based upon the general concensus on this forum that the 7018 rod is the "best" rod to use, I bought a box of them. I was welding a carryall frame and using bright shiny metal. I have a Lincoln AC welder and had the heat on 120. I was really looking forward to using the 7018's as opposed to my old standby 6013's. Gosh, I must have been doing something wrong as those things gave me fits! They were constantly sticking...it was a nightmare getting an arc striked. They would quit right in the middle of a bead and I could not get an arc started back again. They were constantly sticking. I was welding regular 1/4 inch metal. I made sure my ground cable was grounded good. I'd switch back to my 6013 rod and it would weld beautifully. I'm sure it must have been me or something, but those things about made me lose my religion. I tried different heat settings......nothing worked. I'm not a professioonal welder, but I don't have too much stuff fall apart either after I weld it. Anybody got any answers? Based upon yesterdays experience, I'll never use those 7018's again. The slag the 7018 left was a pain to chip loose also. It was hard and looked like dried on white paint/chalk. NOrmally, the slag left from my 6013 peels right up like a banana peeling. I"m at a loss.
Each time the rod would "stick", it would peel about 1/2-1" of the coating off the rod. Could the rods have been old or defective? They were Hobart 7018 1/8 inch rods.

7018 is a DC rod - you would be better served with 7014
 
Try Forney 7018 AC, I was using an old Miller, w/handcrank, electric unit, in my farmer friends shop for a repair on a JD loader quick attach, and tried to use what he had on the shelf, 7018, he was headed to a local supplier and I asked for some of that in AC, or I'd have to bring my machine over for DC, which I am accustomed to using with that electrode. Huge difference, especially in out of position, you could control the puddle etc. When "re-striking" 7018, I find that there is usually slag on the end of the electrode, I often take the electrode out of the holder, and tap it til it chips off, it will arc off immediately. From one novice to another LOL !!!
 
Hello randallinMO,
Assuming the rods were dry,a sticking rod usually means a too cold of a setting.
When the amps are right, you can stick the rod right into the work, and it will keep burning.
Before you get rid of the 7018 try this:
120 amps was not enough to keep the rod burning for your setup.
Try 130 amp and push the rod right in the works as you wanted to go right through it.
If it stick, go higher on the amps.
When it stops sticking, you got close to the right amps.. Now you can weld a bit, cut down on the amps untill it sticks againg.
Now you have a range for the rod and your setup.
Hope this helps...............Guido.
 
Kevin brings out a good point about 7014.

7014 is stronger than 6013 and you'll need to turn it up a few more amps to use it, but it flows as easy as 6013 and the flux comes off nicely. You'll like it. :)
 

I never SMAW with AC, except on one of these sites I gave it a try. I didn't see a whole lot of difference between DC+ and AC, but soon as I struck an arc on AC I almost stopped to see if something was wrong with my machine, the noise really startled me! But other than the noise I just didn't see much difference. Were you using Hobart's “411” 7018? Either I've used it and liked it, or I've read where people really like it. I have run way too many brands of rod to keep the results fresh in my mind.

I have recently come to the conclusion that inverter welding machines run one brand of rod better then other brands. My Miller inverter likes ESAB's Atom Arc 7018, where as my Lincoln, and Everlast inverters like Lincoln's Excalibur 7018, why this is I have know idea! :?
 
Try some 7014 not as good as the 7018 but do a better job then the 6013 does. By the way when buying 7018 you have to be 100% sure you are getting the AC type rod because if you buy the DC type they will in fact do just as your talking about. The last 7018 rod I got was made or sold by Lincoln and said AC7018 on the box and it welds almost as easy as the 7014 I was using but is a bit strong then the 7014
 
If you bough straight 7018 then yes you will have fits on A/C as 7018 is made for D/C rev. , Now there is a 7018 that is made for A/C and i have used a ton of it over the years . I carry twenty pounds of the 7018 A/C in my truck in sealed rod containers for use where there is only a Linclon Tombstone welder that is found on most farms . The 7018 A/C starts well and holds and arch well from say around 90 amps on up. It does ok but still not as well as on D/C .
 
Also not all 7018 A/C is the same , went down this road once before . Stopped at the local welding shop for some rod and they only had it in 10 pound packages so i got two and it said 7018 A/C , got to the farm to do the repair and i could not get this stuff to burn on A/C . I wanted 7018 A/C murex and they told me that this stuff was the same . Being one of vary short temperament and lousy sense of humor I went back to the weld shop and the owner and i had some words and i made him try to weld with it being that he is such a great welder that he clams to be he could not get it to burn either and for some reason they found the 7018 A/C murex that i had asked for in the first place not the junk that they were tryen to push with there own label.
 
I picked up some Hobart 7018 (5/32") a week or so ago and tried it over the weekend. Nice rods!! As with all 7018 they are sometimes a bit tempermental to start with but after burning one or two I was liking them a lot. And they come in a nice plastic case to boot!
 
I like that!!
"Somehow, they found the 7018 A/C Murex that I asked for in the first place"
Some people will try to "take you for a ride" if they think you don"t know what you"re doing.
The best part is having him show you how good it works! LOL
 
Well thats the bad thing about 7018 on an AC welder.But you can weld with it.For one thing get a file and rake the end of the rod across it before you try and strike an arc with a used rod.That will help a lot.The slag on 7018 is kind of like plastic or something and it covers the end and you cant get any current to flow,then you hit it harder and harder and break the coating off of the rod,which will mess up your weld.Actually you have been spoiled by 6013 since it starts easy.The weld is weak but it will sure start easy.7014 starts easy too and makes a better weld.Plus if you want to weld something flat,the easiest rod to use is 7024.If you can find it in 1/8 rod for use on your welder then you can weld a strong,good looking weld that starts easy with an AC machine.
Just like you didnt ride a bicycle the first time you tried it,welding with 7018 on an AC welder is more difficult,but once you get onto it you can do it.Get you some 7018 AC rod and try it before you give up on it.It makes too good of a weld for you to go back to 6013.
 
7018 rod can be used with an AC welder if the open curcuit voltage is 70 or above. This means using the LOW tap on the welder. The voltage is easy to check with a multimeter. Just remove the cables, turn welder on, and check the voltage with the meter.
 
I've found Lincoln 7018AC works pretty good with a buzz box. I've also found an AC 225 lincoln welder to burn standard 7018 OK. Try another brand of 7018 and see if there's an improvement. It will take some practice but once you get the hang of 7018, you'll like burning it. Try warming the Hobart rods up to about 150/200 deg. and see if they are easier to burn. 7014 and 7024 are essentially the same thing except 7024 has more iron powder in the flux so isn't desiginated as an all position rod like 7014 is.
 
A Lincoln buzz box doesn't have a high and low tap like a Miller. I think they're 72 OCV but burn 7018 a lot easier than a Miller buzz box anyway.
 
Does it make a difference on any of your SA 200's? I've heard that the Dynasty machines are a fantastic TIG welder but not as nice for stick as other Miller inverters like XMT's. I think they have lower OCV because you don't need as much for TIG. I know XMT 304's burn Air Liquide 7018 really nice but I think although they have higher OCV than a Dynasty, still have lower OCV than a conventional machine. They sure strike an arc easy though.
 
One thing I forgot to say was,once you get 7018,7024,or other rods set right,the slag peels up on them.Since you say it was hard to chip the slag,Id say it was too cold.Just because somebody can weld a rod at 120 amps,or it says that on the box,does not mean that your welder is actually at 120 amps when the dial says that.You should probably try 130 and see if that works better for you.If you have real long cables on your welder you might need to go higher.If you go too high the rod will be glowing orange through the coating before its used up.What you want is for the rod to weld good,but to try and peel the slag.On an AC Buzz Box you might not be able to adjust it close enough to get it to do that,but 7018 is not real hard to get the slag off when its done right.
 
7018AC is usually recommended by the electrode manufacturers for any small buzzbox type welder whether using AC or DC power due to the relatively low OCV of the homeowner grade buzzboxes.

Even perfectly dry 7018 or 7018AC can be tempermental to run, but the problem is compounded by the fact that only large containers of welding tins are properly hermetically sealed. The smaller boxes that most of us homeowners/hobbyists are likely to buy in many cases are not sealed as well as you think they are - often only in a baggie with holes in it inside a carboard box. In essence, they are damp even when brand new which compounds the problem.

Unless, I am knowingly welding some exotic metal alloy instead of regular mild steel, then I do not fool with any 7018 for the reasons you discovered.

Try some 7014 your AC powered buzzbox will love it as 7014 burns sweet on AC, but 7014 likes a few more amps than a comparable sized 6013 electrode will. 7014 has better penetration and more strength than 6013. 7014 is sometimes affectionately called "idiot rod' because it will almost weld by itself. 7014 not as strict with rod storage requirements either.

Just so I do not get flamed here, I am not saying 7018 or 7018AC is not a great rod because it obviously is, but it has quirks. To make an anology: Most people would agree that a wood screw of sufficient size is stronger than a nail. However, If all you possess is a hammer (think AC buzzbox) which is the better choice to pick based on the tool you own - the screw or the nail? Now if I own some fancy AC/DC welder along with a rod oven and possess some serious welding skills then the choice is different. Yes I realize many people can weld even the most tempermental rods with an AC buzzbox, but those people could probably run rods better with a match than I can with a welder as they have skills that I will never have.
 
The last two digits of an electrode number have significance as to polarity. EXX18--A.C. or D.C. positive. I have an old Lincoln Buzz Box also. It will not run a 7018. I did run a 3/32 7018 once and that poor little machine sounded like it was working itself to death. My brother has a century A.C. machine and it will run 7018 rods as long as you can feed the stinger. The century machine cost 3 times what my Lincoln cost. My experience has been, the cheaper buzz boxes will not run a 7018. A friend was buying a $120.00 Linde welder back in the 1970's. I suggested that he spend a little more money and buy a machine that will run a 7018. He did not listen because 7018 is an A.C. current electrode. His Linde would not run the 7018.
 
Maybe it depends on the machine. Have had a Lincoln 225 AC since 1961 or '62. Don't know in what quantities the 'real' welders buy their rods, but we always just bought 'em in 50# boxes from the local parts/supply store. Have no idea how many boxes of 7018 the old box has burned....nearly all 5/32 and the welder set at 160. These were not AC rods.....just the 7018s. The only problem was that if you picked the rod up, you'd have to crumble a little flux off before you could strike an arc. Certainly there are better welders out there, but it's what we had and it did what we needed done.
 
I burned a lot of 7018AC on my old Linc. Turn it up another notch. Make sure it's got real good ground connection and that you have good cables... It should work...
I always used Liquid Air rods back then. Mostly use Canox these days... but I'm also using a DC machine now.
If things get bad tho... I'll often go for the Liquid Air rods.

Rod
 
Do you have 7018 or 7018AC rods ??
The 7018 rod will not do well on an AC welder while the 7018AC rod will do pretty well.

A 7018 AC rod used on a DC welder really burns sweet, great weld quality and appearance.
We burned many pounds of 7018 AC's using our old lincoln AC and later a Lincoln AC DC machine, running on DC.
 
Get the good AC rod, too. I ran a 5 pounds through a buzzbox one day a couple years ago, and it ran great. The woman at Airgas said to spend the money on American-made AC rod instead of the Mexican stuff, and I do believe it was worth the extra cost. I think it was Lincoln I used, it was in a fancy NASCAR box. The box was probably half the extra cost.
 
I've burned a fair bit of standard 7018 on an AC 225 Lincoln welder. On an AC Miller Thunderbolt, I've always had problems keeping the arc going but never on a Lincoln buzz box. I've also had good results using Lincoln 7018AC on an old Comet welder that doesn't have a cooling fan. I had my skid steer parked at a guys oil change shop and he had the old Comet buzz box with taps for amp control on the front. I wanted to weld some lifting hooks on the bucket and just went to Canadian tire and picked up a 1 lb. pack of 1/8" Lincoln 7018AC for the job. Obviously a little harder to strike the arc but they welded just fine. Looking at the welds you couldn't tell there were done with a AC.

Air Liquide are the most preferred 7018 here by a big margin. I think for the most part, the problems people are having is more related to their lack of experience using and/or practicing with 7018. Some times it can be faulty rods or a faulty machine but most of the time it's inexperience. 7018 aren't a drag rod like 6013 or 7014. You have to hold a steady arc length when running 7018 and that's what takes practice. A DC machine is smoother and makes it a lot easier. I've used a bunch of different buzz boxes on people farms and garages and they've often been amazed that I could burn 7018 and they had nothing but problems. Practice is what you need. That said I found the Miller AC Thunderbolts the hardest to burn 7018.
 
If the rods are dry and never got wet, they should weld OK for 99% of the stuff people on here will be welding. 7018 just takes more practice. That's why it's the last rod you learn to use when first starting out. Once you learn how to strike an arc and hold a constant arc length, most experienced welders prefer burning 7018.

Most people would agree that if you're going to do something, do it right the first time. If it means getting a drill or a screw driver, that's what you do. If it means practicing more with 7018, that's what you do. It makes no sense to build or repair something if it's not going to stay together.
 
I wanted to give everyone who responded a great big thank you! I"ve truly learned something from each of you. Great suggestions and I'll definitely use them. All my fears were confirmed. I didn't know what I was doing due to lack of experience with the 7018. The rod itself is tempermental on my Lincoln buzzbox, and I need to practice a LOT more using this rod. I relate my little welder to riding a "small" bicycle. It's not fancy but I eventually reach my destination just like the big boys do on there "big" bicycles.
Thank you again to each of you. (and there weren't even any fights started........how can that be?)
 
One trick that helps if your 7018 rods are a bit damp, "stick" the rod on the work and allow a few seconds for those welding amps to get the rod smoking hot, then break it loose. Wait another 15-30 seconds for the hot metal to dry the flux, then go to work.
Makes a huge difference.

Only thing is you need to learn is how long to "stick" the rod, too long and the rod will get rubber soft and will be hard to break loose from the work. In that case, switch off the welder and allow the rod to cool for a bit before breaking it loose from the work.
 
Your Just not holding the rod at a steady distance. Back in the 1960's when Sohio oil's pipeline welder instructor was working with me he knocked the flux off several 7018 rods and welded a bead and then had me work at it until I could run a bead without the flux. He said it was a lesson in hand control. Start the rod with a sweeping motion rather than a tapping motion. You can tell the correct distance in a short time by the sound rather than sight. You can make distance changes quicker by sound than by sight. Did you ever watch a welder flip his hood up and talk to someone and not stop welding? Sound is the only way they can do that.
 
I think the reason old machines were so good is because they didn't have coated electrodes back then. Strike the arc like a match and always try to use 2 hands on the stinger instead of the one handed crash and burn method.

Sound is really important, especially when doing root passes with 6010. I worked in a vessel shop and the safety director tried to make ear plugs mandatory all the time. I asked the foreman, How are you supposed to hear if your root is going in good? He said, good question, as he was thinking the same thing.
 
What little open root pipe welding I do, sound is everything to me! If I couldn't hear the weld, I'm sure I couldn't see it either! :lol:
 
(quoted from post at 06:50:47 07/12/11) I've burned a fair bit of standard 7018 on an AC 225 Lincoln welder. On an AC Miller Thunderbolt, I've always had problems keeping the arc going but never on a Lincoln buzz box... That said I found the Miller AC Thunderbolts the hardest to burn 7018.

Well, I will have to partially agree with you on the comparison between a Lincoln AC-225 and a Miller Thunderbolt. I have had my Lincoln AC-225 for several years and recently picked up an older Miller Thunderbolt top crank model that is AC225/DC150. While I rarely burn 7018 as I simply do not have the need for them, I have burned a few other rods side by side just to see how the AC arc quality compares on both units. I think the Lincoln seems a little stronger than the Miller when limiting the comparison to AC output. (And Yes I was using the low tap on the Miller which gives you the best volt amp curve per manual for easiest initial arc strikes. Also, the supply power line was shared between the 2 units so it is not like one welder had a better supply power feed).
 
(quoted from post at 07:05:13 07/12/11)..Most people would agree that if you're going to do something, do it right the first time. If it means getting a drill or a screw driver, that's what you do. If it means practicing more with 7018, that's what you do. It makes no sense to build or repair something if it's not going to stay together.

Agreed should always do things right if at all possible, but mild steel has been welded for ages with rods other than 7018 so proper welding does not begin and end with 7018 rods only. Alloy steel is best welded with 7018, but 7018 not needed for mild steel.

For most of the things that I weld, I do not need the more tempermental rod like 7018 that requires even more practice and sometimes special storage. If I was welding on trailers and trailer hitches then I would change my opinion, but I am not. I would not trust my skills to weld something like trailer hitches anyway regardless of the rod that I was using anyway. Being further handicapped with a lower level AC only welder for many years made the choice even easier for me in regards to the rods to pick and 7014, 6011, and even 6013 has always worked well for me. I have never had any weld related failures on anything that I have reapired with the stick welder, or even my lowly 115 volt Mig.
 
Mild steel is welded with 7018 all the time. It depends on the application. 7018 is used with buzz boxes all the time as well. You're just as handicapped by not practicing with 7018 as you are by having AC only. You can make up all kinds of excuses regarding welding but if you don't practice and burn a lot a rod, you're seriously limiting the types of projects you can successfully do. Welding is one of those things that requires tons of practice and many, many hours to get good at. The more effort you put in to learn the art of welding, the more rewarded you'll be in the end. I can assure you that Puddles didn't become the master craftsman he is without burning thousands of pounds of all types of rods, especially 7018.
 
Be honest here. Do you rarely burn 7018 because you don't think you have a need for them or because you don't want to put the effort in to learn how to burn them properly? I burned quite a bit of standard 7018 from 3/32" to 5/32" on an AC-225 without much problems at all. The 7018AC rods make it even easier to use. Dick's suggestion of practicing beads after knocking the flux off is a good way to learn how to keep a steady arc. Way back when, they used to build steel buildings and other big projects with bare wire electrodes.
 
You didnt say what Model Lincoln welder you have.I bought my Lincoln 225 in 1964 because my old Weld Master welder couldnt run 7018.Yhe Lincoln 225 is known to run 7018 ok.
 
(quoted from post at 02:51:05 07/13/11) Be honest here. Do you rarely burn 7018 because you don't think you have a need for them or because you don't want to put the effort in to learn how to burn them properly? I burned quite a bit of standard 7018 from 3/32" to 5/32" on an AC-225 without much problems at all.

Dave, your people skills are showing again. :lol: :lol:
 
(quoted from post at 18:41:00 07/11/11) I've found Lincoln 7018AC works pretty good with a buzz box. I've also found an AC 225 lincoln welder to burn standard 7018 OK.

Well, SHAZAMM!! Thanks, Dave. :shock:
I guess we can go gather up our AC buzz boxes that we buried or started using for door posts (per your advice), and start using them again.
 
When the slag is not lifting it does show uneven hand control. With even control and weave/flair (not having the slag get under the edges of the bead)the slag will curl up by its self with 7018.
When chipping the hard to get off slag from 7018 you will have under cuts in the bead that should not be there if you look close. Not that the weld wouldn't hold or be plenty good enough.
 
Like Puddles, I've probably burned a few more rods than most people on this forum. For a beginner, there is nothing more frustrating than trying to learn to weld on a low end AC machine, especially with 7018. You try a good DC machine after struggling with an AC machine and you won't believe how much easier it is. Night and day difference! That's why it would be nice if there were more demo rooms at the welding supplies. I'm sure that if people could try a couple different machines, before buying, and see the difference, there'd be a lot less AC buzz boxes sold.
 
(quoted from post at 07:33:52 07/13/11) Mild steel is welded with 7018 all the time. It depends on the application. 7018 is used with buzz boxes all the time as well. You're just as handicapped by not practicing with 7018 as you are by having AC only. You can make up all kinds of excuses regarding welding but if you don't practice and burn a lot a rod, you're seriously limiting the types of projects you can successfully do. Welding is one of those things that requires tons of practice and many, many hours to get good at. The more effort you put in to learn the art of welding, the more rewarded you'll be in the end. I can assure you that Puddles didn't become the master craftsman he is without burning thousands of pounds of all types of rods, especially 7018.

Hmmm. Where did I say mild steel could not be welded with 7018 in any of my posts? I am not arguing that 7018 is a superior rod as it does have its uses. Plenty guys can run it with a buzzbox too. I even mentioned that 7018 is the best choice for alloy steel.

I did say mild steel does not require 7018 in order to have strong sufficient welds. If whatever rod is plenty strong enough to do the job, then is even stronger rod really necessary? If yes, then I guess my car should be assembled with all 1" diameter bolts becasue they are much stronger than the 1/2" diameter bolts an such that are proven to be strong enough for the job at hand.

Lastly never claimed to be a skilled welder or even a skilled craftsman. I have no interest in spending immense hours on learning a quirky rod, when an easier to use rod is certainly both sufficient and suitable for my tasks at hand. Plus, practice will only take you so far. If you ever played any sports then you know what I mean. Avid basketball player here: , No matter how much time I spent in the gym in my youth - I was never going to be as good as Michael Jordan - above average was as good as it got. Hitting a baseball was even worse for me, Now you slow the ball down and make it bigger (slow pitch softball) then I can at least participate (just like using the easier welding rods to run). Now matter how much I practice welding, I feel safe in saying that I will never be as good a welder as Puddles.

If and when my welds start failing then I might consider some 7018 - until then no thanks.
 
(quoted from post at 07:51:05 07/13/11) Be honest here. Do you rarely burn 7018 because you don't think you have a need for them or because you don't want to put the effort in to learn how to burn them properly? I burned quite a bit of standard 7018 from 3/32" to 5/32" on an AC-225 without much problems at all. The 7018AC rods make it even easier to use. Dick's suggestion of practicing beads after knocking the flux off is a good way to learn how to keep a steady arc. Way back when, they used to build steel buildings and other big projects with bare wire electrodes.

I do not think I have not needed 7018, I actually know that I have not needed any 7018. I was not exagerating when I said, that I have yet to have a weld fail even with my lowly 115volt Mig.

Also, In my earlier post I also mentioned that I recently picked up a Miller Thunderbolt that is AC/DC. Have not tried 7018 with DC yet, but do not plan to either unless I need to weld some alloy steel.
 
(quoted from post at 19:58:05 07/13/11) Like Puddles, I've probably burned a few more rods than most people on this forum. For a beginner, there is nothing more frustrating than trying to learn to weld on a low end AC machine, especially with 7018. You try a good DC machine after struggling with an AC machine and you won't believe how much easier it is. Night and day difference! That's why it would be nice if there were more demo rooms at the welding supplies. I'm sure that if people could try a couple different machines, before buying, and see the difference, there'd be a lot less AC buzz boxes sold.

Nothing wrong with an AC buzzbox. They were cheap to buy and last forever and rarely break - many still working that are 75 years old or more. Really they are perfect for a homeowner grade machine. Picking the right rod (assuming it is suitable for the application) goes a long way towards the satisfaction factor which has been the point of all my arguments. Let a newbie run some 7014 and simply see the grin from ear to ear and that 7014 will be darn strong too on mild steel.
 
Excuses, excuses. We aren't talking about naturally gifted sports icons people like Michael Jordan. We're talking about welding. It requires burning lots of rods to get good at it. Taking a course is the best thing a newbie can do. Do you think Puddles was born a naturally gifted welder? I bet he's burned enough rods to stretch to the moon and back several times. Give a newbie a good DC machine to try and he'll have a grin ear to ear burning 7018, instead of getting frustrated and not wanting to try to learn how to use 7018. Your proof of that yourself. There is nothing more frustrating than trying to learn how to weld on a low end AC machine. You won't believe how much better a good DC machine is until you try one. There is almost no comparison. A good DC machine will cut the learning curve by 75% or more over a low end buzz box. It will reduce frustration and cursing by about 200%.

As I said before, what rod to use on mild steel depends on the application. There are thousands of mild steel weldments under stress that call for 7018 or stronger rods. 7014 is for static loading. 7018 is for dynamic loading. Big difference.
 
well well well i see our 1 trick pony is at it again arguing, belittling putting people down because of their choice of weld rod.
such shrill screaming attitude, sounds like the only frustration and cursing is on your part. there goes your post falling apart, take a couple of deep breaths dave now don't you feel better?
 
(quoted from post at 07:56:04 07/14/11) Excuses, excuses. We aren't talking about naturally gifted sports icons people like Michael Jordan. We're talking about welding. It requires burning lots of rods to get good at it. Taking a course is the best thing a newbie can do. Do you think Puddles was born a naturally gifted welder? Give a newbie a good DC machine to try and he'll have a grin ear to ear burning 7018, instead of getting frustrated and not wanting to try to learn how to use 7018. Your proof of that yourself. There is nothing more frustrating than trying to learn how to weld on a low end AC machine. You won't believe how much better a good DC machine is until you try one. There is almost no comparison. A good DC machine will cut the learning curve by 75% or more over a low end buzz box. It will reduce frustration and cursing by about 200%.

As I said before, what rod to use on mild steel depends on the application. There are thousands of mild steel weldments under stress that call for 7018 or stronger rods. 7014 is for static loading. 7018 is for dynamic loading. Big difference.

Oh boy where to go with this one - other than to say this is my Last post in this thread.
a) "...Excuses Excuses..": I do not make excuses you seem to be doing that. You start out saying AC Machines are adequate and now you are bashing them. I happen to like AC machines and will always have one. For someone wanting to get into welding it is the best $125-$150 that can be spent and the welder will last you the rest of your life.
b) Micheal Jordan was an anology as was the baseball to softball analogy (I apologize that they were too complicated for you to comprehend): Gifted talents do exist though, and in welding I will never be a talent regardless of how much I practice, buts that okay as I can get buy suitable enough relative to my limited needs.
c) "...Give a newbie a DC machine...": No doubt DC is a little easier. Only problem is that nobody ever gave me anything. I have had to work to buy everything that I own. Traditionally owning anything other than AC has been 2 to 3 times the cost or more - not easily justifable for an occasional user when AC can be made to work good enough for most homeowner applications. Skipping buying groceries for the family did not seem like a good idea to buy a better welder that I might use to hobby play with 3 months from now.
d) "..As I said before what rod to use on mild steels depends on the application.." : If I was going to bother visiting this thread again then I would ask where in this thread that you made this statement as I do not remember you saying anything along these lines in this thread?
 
rr1
if it is any comfort i agree with you all the way ol super dave is basically insecure and insecure people as you and i know love to pound on their keyboard trying to impress others.
those that have been there and done that do not have to flap there jaws,i am not a doctor i can not explain the mentality of it but it is a fact of life.
dave does not hesitate to tell others how to do a job or what to buy to do it, but on the other hand instead of taking his backhoe apart and fixing it the right way he goes about it with a torch sledge hammer and whatever else is laying around beats the snot out of it and its fixed.
all your points are good and valid but unfortunatly they are wasted on super dave.

al
 
A.) I diasagree. Trying to learn how to weld on a low end buzz box will do nothing but frustrate you. Getting a DC machine is the best thing you could ever do to improve your welding skills! Puddles bought a 200 amp inverter for $315! Cheaper than a new buzz box. With a lot of experience and/or practice a buzz box can work OK. Not great but just OK.

B.) Michael Jordan wasn't born a gifted basketball player. He didn't get to be as good as he is without tons of practice. Look at how he played after coming out of retirement. Do you think he just lost his "gift"? It's like anything else, you don't practice at it and you get rusty. Puddles didn't get to be a master craftsman without spending a lot of time practicing. You sound like you don't even want to try to improve your welding skills by practicing. Most people would call that lazy. Look how much Lanse has improved. A lot of it has to do with upgrading to a DC machine.

C.) DC is a little easier? Try 100 times easier for a beginner! You can buy a brand new 200 amp inverter with 5 year warranty for cheaper than a brand new buzz box. If you were that hard up for money, any welder is the last you'd be buying.

D.) I never made reference to this thread but I've said many times that the first thing to consider before welding anything is the application and whether or not it is static or dynamically loaded.

The excuses I was referring to you is you not wanting to practice. 7018 aren't tempermental rods. They just have more of a learning curve if someone takes the time to practice with them.
 

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